Rainer Hoffmann

Thanks Rainer. I even used to know about the orange filters, back in the dirty old "chemical" days of photography.
 
Kev's supposition of the baseplate being black sounds possible (and would explain the very distinctive demarcation in the B&W photo, as well as the somewhat blurred, darker "rim" in the color pictures). For the sake of aesthetics, I would still prefer the thing to remain blue, though ;-)
 
Nuff' said about this darn backplate!
Ultimately, it's Pete's decision, whatever he does shall be the "truth" ...

Black & White film is more sensitive to blue than to other colors (despite the fact that it is called "panchromatic"), Therefor blue is represented as light grey. To correct this B&W photographers used yellow or orange filters on the lens, especially to darken blue sky in landscape photographs.
 
So indeed you can't guess colors from a B&W pic. Depending on the filter that's been used, the shades of grey can be wildly different.
 
Cheers
Rainer

Black & White film is more sensitive to blue than to other colors (despite the fact that it is called "panchromatic"), Therefor blue is represented as light grey. To correct this B&W photographers used yellow or orange filters on the lens, especially to darken blue sky in landscape photographs.
 
So indeed you can't guess colors from a B&W pic. Depending on the filter that's been used, the shades of grey can be wildly different.
 
Cheers
Rainer

But EVERY line is not the same shade. I love to do paint jobs like this!

I think this guy has overdone the pre-shading an weathering a bit  :
 

 
Interesting discussion, though. I'm far from painting my Viggen, but the D(I) modded Viggens looked really abused at the end of their active duty. Representing that might be quite a challenge.
 
Cheers
Rainer

I think this guy has overdone the pre-shading an weathering a bit  :
 

 
Interesting discussion, though. I'm far from painting my Viggen, but the D(I) modded Viggens looked really abused at the end of their active duty. Representing that might be quite a challenge.
 
Cheers
Rainer

I think this guy has overdone the pre-shading an weathering a bit  :
 

 
Interesting discussion, though. I'm far from painting my Viggen, but the D(I) modded Viggens looked really abused at the end of their active duty. Representing that might be quite a challenge.
 
Cheers
Rainer

I think this guy has overdone the pre-shading an weathering a bit  :
 

 
Interesting discussion, though. I'm far from painting my Viggen, but the D(I) modded Viggens looked really abused at the end of their active duty. Representing that might be quite a challenge.
 
Cheers
Rainer

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Now, that's quite an understatement...
 
freakin' brilliant stuff, Ben!
 
Cheers
Rainer

Now, that's quite an understatement...
 
freakin' brilliant stuff, Ben!
 
Cheers
Rainer

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Joel, Thanks much! 
Citidelgrad, Thanks. My grandfather is a Citadel grad. I have his sword from 1934. 
Rainer, Thank you. I do think my subject is really helping me look good. I mean it's a yellow biplane..it just oozes aviation. I'm trying to pay it homage.
 
Unrelated to the Fury, but damn interesting to a few followers here that are building B-17s. Here is a B-17 from a warbird tour that stopped by Bar Harbor, Maine this past week while I was passing through. It was rainy here and I got this shot from the car. Kinda cool. I also saw it flew overhead at about 1000 ft  while having my morning coffee at the campsite which was an unexpected thrill considering I was already enjoying myself just looking out at the water.  What a beauty! 
 

 
 
Back at the bench now and the decals are quickly and successfully finding their way to the plane. Still shiny here in raw form. Dullcoat to follow after they dry.
 

Afraid I can't add anything that hasn't been said already. Absolutel stunning...
 
Cheers
Rainer

evening folks
 
 
 
 Hi Barney - they just arrived but unfortunately are 16mm so a touch too big to fit into the camera window, sorry about that & thank you so much for sending them over. I have ordered a Silver Leaf set from Canuck in 1/48 scale in which the 24" apparently is 14mm..
 
 
 
 

 
 
having spent the best part of 2 days painting, I am done for now - all the markings are done that are not going to be decals so time to take a break & let it all dry properly...
 
..I lost one little bit of cheatline, but that is easily reinstated later..
 

 

 

 

 

 
..the masks were absolutely fantastic, so clean & crisp but it is high pressure working and I am relieved its all over. A very big and public thank you to Radu for helping me out
 
now that is done, it moves on to final assembly and just the elevators to actually make - I have also had a base & case made for it, so am learning about diorama techniques to give it a setting..
 
TTFN
Peter
 

that is simply not true - Radu didn't just make the masks but also provided the guidance that meant I could make them work I am forever in your debt, and converted to this way of doing things..
 
I feel like I am on fire now, just did the race numbers and again a perfect outcome...
 
fuselage..
 

 
..one big number on the wing..
 

 
..the result
 

 

 

 
..such a relief, I am so pleased with it
 
TTFN
Peter

Bloody perfect, Peter!
 
Oh, how I would like to go to Telford, but, alas, it can't be.
 
Cheers
Rainer

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

Good evening,
 
some progress on the right fuselage shell... I added frame 5, the longitudinal U-profile, frame 3d and frame 2.
 

 
Frame 5 has a large circular opening for the oxygen-shower. The U-profil runs along the top edge of the sideconsoles from frame 3d to frame 5:

 
Frame 3d is quite simple. In front of frame 3 is frame 2 with four circular openings:

 
Close-up of f5 and f6:

 
F2 (dry fitting) with the openings for four electrial sockets/connectors:

 
Bye for now,
 
Bernd.

Beautiful work, Rainer!
 
Kev

That is some intelligent use of brute force! I'm looking for this embossing metal myself.

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

G'day Gents,
 
here is a small update on the Jaktviggen. Not much to show, but I had some success in forming the rudder actuator fairing from sheet aluminum. That worked really well.
 
I started with a makeshift female mould and a male former:
 

 
The male former looks quite awful, but that's because it's been used twice already when this pic was taken. The aluminium left some nasty black residue on the former.
 
I place a some sheet aluminium on the female mould and then stick that together with the male former in a vise. some brute force on my behalf then does the job:
 

 
And here is the result fresh from the press:
 

 
Fwd is to the right. There are some wrinkles at the bottom, but they are taken care of by some sanding, nothing to worry about.
 
Here is the fairing after some clean-up:
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. Here it is on the vertical stabilizer:
 

 
The bottom doesn't conform to the airfoil of the stabilizer yet, but again, that's not a big deal. The fairing is still way too long. But it will be cut approximately at the dotted red line. The rear part then slides into the forward part, as is the case on the real deal. The fairing will then line up with the rudder trailing edge.
 
That's it for today.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
 
Cheers
Rainer

bloody hell - thats amazing Rainer
 
I have tried similar things, but found I tore the metal as it couldn't take the 'drop' in the press - how did you avoid that as the female mould looks pretty deep?
 
an absolutely stunning result on such a complex bunch of curves - it's flawless
 
bravo - inspires me to look at making shapes another way
 
carry on!
 
Peter