Francis

Thanks guys. I downloaded Fusion 360 but apparently my graphics card is not good enough for the software. Will need to update...

Thanks Alex. Much appreciated!

Hi everyone. Having seen some of you designing your own models on computer, I was wondering if you could suggest an easy to learn program (preferably free programs, if possible) to allow me to do the same. With the current situation, I figured I should have some time on my hands and wanted to try designing my own. At least I will learn something new. Thanks Francis

Thank you for the time you have given this community of ours. I wish you success in the future.

Thanks for the help. I guess I'll have to work out something on my own. then.

Hi folks. I was wondering if Capt. Jay van Bloom P-47D "Bloom's Doom" decals have ever been done? I would really like to build this aircraft but can't seem to find a sheet with the correct markings. Any help welcomed.

Awesome project! Cant wait to see it's progression.

Thanks for the info Scott. Any idea where I can find these drawings? Since I've already started rebuilding them, I might as well do them correctly.

Thanks Ade. That is what I feared so I figured I would ask here for opinions. Thanks for your comment! Same here. They are the reason I generally gave up on resin sets, they require more work than scratchbuilding in many cases. Thanks. Thanks buddy. Your suggestion is also my preferred solution at the moment. The point that bothers me the most is that nasty step that is quite prominent inside the wheel well but I thinks I have it worked out somehow. Needs more thinking before before I commit to the surgery. Thanks for all your thought mates. I really appreciate you taking time to answer my call. Cheers! Francis

Hi. I was wondering if anyone has used the Aires Zero wheel well for the Tamiya kit (#2160)? Any comments on fit or extra work required. Thanks! Francis

Hi. How did you get the ribbing effect? It looks great!

I don't entirely agree with Doogs tutorial. First of all there is only one type of black and it's simply toneless, no variation what's so ever. Anything else is simply variations of very dark gray. Pure black does not exist in nature, it is a man made "color", just like true white. For the sake of discussion, we will call them colors. Considering that good practice when painting, it is always recommended to start with the lighter colors first, when trying to achieve a black weathered finish, one should start with a dark gray base and work towards the black in progressive transparent coats of darker gray. Accenting the panel line can then be done using a black wash or lighter gray for contrast. Never do a black base for as a start, otherwise you will make things harder on yourself. The T-38 example is more of an automotive type finish and simple gloss black should do the trick. An F-117A or P-61 should be painted with progressive transparent coats of darker or even black in some areal to obtain the right effect. Remember that a flat black/black gray finish is very prone to weathering showing off its base pigmentation of dark blue/brown/green tones. Look at how painters work to achieve dark tones in their paintings. Personally, I never use use pure black anywhere unless it's a wash, and only under certain circumstances. Just my 2¢ worth here. Francis

Nice!

No mad skills Bryan, just morbid curiosity. I'm not convinced it would be that difficult and the results may be well worth it. Then again, I may be totally wrong! Thanks Gary, that would be another option.

I use Tamiya rubber black XF-85. It's a very dark gray without the green tint of Nato black.