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About Brenhen

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    LSP Junkie

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  1. It is frustrating how inconsistent shapeways products can be. Maybe some day I’ll break out the stalled square bridge set and try again, but most likely not. Good call on the Radford. When I started this kit that was my plan as well. There are a couple of great photos of Radford after rescuing crew members from another Fletcher that had been sunk. Ultimately though, I liked the idea of scratch building the 20mm tub on the front of the bridge that Jenkins had and Radford did not. It fills the space in between the bridge and the 52 mount.
  2. Thanks Jennings. I actually bought most of the shapeways parts a couple of years ago when they were having a sale. The sale didn't help that much, they are definitely expensive! My issue was with the printing quality. Certain sides of the bridge and other pieces are glass smooth, while the other sides are rough with vertical ridges along the surface. I know it is a limitation of the printing process and could probably be worked out with some filling and sanding, but it was a little disappointing. Also, even after washing the parts, I was having a lot of trouble with paint flaking badly. That project has stalled, but I plan to get back to it one day. If you are thinking about the getting the round bridge fletcher, I highly recommend it. It is a fun kit to build!
  3. Every so often I need a break from planes, and seeing that Fletcher destroyers have always been a favorite of mine, Revell's kit was a great distraction. Now if they would only make a square bridge fletcher! This is the platinum version of the kit with added photoetch that really helps improve the original. I also added some scratch building and shapeways items to create the USS Jenkins early in the war. The primary issue with the Revell kit is that it limits you out of the box to building either the Fletcher or Radford as they looked leaving the shipbuilders. Once they got to the Pacific they had already been modified. Additionally, the decals the kit gives you for the Chevalier can't be used because the armament that comes in the kit doesn't represent that ship. With the constant modifications that the class experienced throughout the war, it would be great to get a couple of extra sprues in the kit to model a range of ships and times. Anyway, all in all it was a great build and I'm happy with the outcome. I hope you enjoy it (big ships are a little hard to photograph!)
  4. HPH L-39. It's pretty close, but it has been sitting unfinished for a couple of years. I need to draw decals for it, which I'm not great at and haven't had much motivation. One day!
  5. What a great build! Excellent work I was thinking the exact same thing!
  6. How can I stare at reference pics for weeks and blow that one! Thanks for pointing it out Starfighter, hopefully I can fix it without too much force!
  7. Thanks Chuck! One side of the gun bay doors fit fairly well, the other was way off and required some work. I used some of your tips from your early F-5 posts as I was building mine. I'm really looking forward to watching yours progress. Thanks Clark. Yes, it is the kit cockpit. While it lacks some accuracy and has an issue with its depth, the cockpit looks fairly good when painted. Especially if you put the pilot in to hide the depth issue.
  8. No work in progress on this one. All in all a very straight forward build though. Besides fixing the right side console in the cockpit, I added some detail inside of the aux air inlets so you can't see through the fuselage. Other than that, just minor gaps in a couple of spots. Thanks for all the nice comments everyone!
  9. Here are some pictures of my recently finished Kittyhawk F-5E in Swiss markings. Despite the shortcomings that have been mentioned about the kit, I enjoyed the build and would call it a good kit overall. I will be building more of Kittyhawk's F-5's in the future. The model was build straight from the box, with LED's added to the landing lights and Swiss decals and masks that I drew using the Matterhorn Circle 1/48 F-5 decals as a guide. Thanks for looking!
  10. I'm building this right now actually. So far, it is working out pretty well. There are a few antennae that need to be left off, sanded down or filled, but the kit provides pretty much everything that you will need. So far the only item I've noticed missing is the antennae on the the left and right sides of the parabrake housing on the tail. The kit provides one, but you will need one for each side. I should clarify that I am by no means an expert on these planes, so I may be missing some details.
  11. Cybermodelers newest kit database shows a new Academy 1/35 AH-1Z due out this year. I can't find any other information on it. Has anyone heard about this or have any other details? https://www.cybermodeler.com/special/kits/kit_acft_manuf.shtml
  12. Thank you guys for the comments. It is very appreciated! Starfighter, I do have a few pictures, but I didn't take too many. I'll try to explain what I did with the limited pictures that I do have. This picture shows the similarities in the fuselage design between the two kits. As you can see, it's a fairly easy cut to visualize This shows the two fuselage halves after making the cuts and test fitting the nose pieces. Rather than cut straight down the Trumpeter nose, I cut an extension forward at the bottom to keep the wing root. This provided a little more gluing area and made keeping the Trumpeter wing a lot easier Here are the parts attached on each fuselage half. The very thin plastic strip on the top of the Hasegawa nose pieces (upper part of the intake base) was very thin and weak. This, mixed with the weight and instability of the nose section until the major construction was fully completed, made for a very weak area of the build. If you do this conversion, strengthen this area early or look for a more practical way to make your cuts and connections. This was my first time combining two kits like this, so I am sure that there is a stronger (and probably much simpler way!) of doing it! This is the bottom area that didn't line up between the two kits. I wanted to keep the Hasegawa nose gear box for simplicity, so I glued it into the front of the nose, keeping the rear part of the nose gear box unglued. I could then squeeze the Hasegawa nose section to match up with the Trumpeter fuselage section on the bottom of the kit. It wasn't a perfect fit and required some filling and sanding, but it wasn't too bad. What I was left with was what you see in the picture. The nose section sides over lapped the gear box. I carefully recut the opening for the nose gear box until it was flush with the box itself. I'm sure it is not the most accurate, but overall it looks pretty close to the real thing This shows the plane once the major construction was pretty much complete. The lighter grey plastic is the Hasegawa stuff. The avionics hump from Hasegawa worked pretty well, it just needed to be widened at the rear to match up with the Trumpeter tail fairing I hope that helps a little bit. If you have any other questions, please ask Thanks again everyone!
  13. When I found the picture below online, I knew right away that it would be my next project. I don't take much convincing when it comes to building an A-4 anyway, but I loved the look of this Argentinian OA-4AR I had a Hasegawa 1/32 OA-4M kit that I planned to use for this project, however there were 3 issues: 1. The Hasegawa kit has raised panel lines, and I wasn't looking to rescribe the whole thing 2. The kit aslo does not have full intakes. Instead, there is a flat plastic wall just inside of the intake lip 3. Almost all of the pictures of Argentine A-4's I found on the ground showed them with engine access and upper service doors open, so I wanted to incorporate that into the finished model My idea was to combine the nose from Hasegawa's kit with the wings and rear fuselage from the Trumpeter A-4M. The two kits actually fit together pretty well. Both have the intake splits on the fuselage at almost the exact same spot, so that the natural place to make the cut for adding the nose. The Hasegawa nose was wider at the bottom than the Trumpeter, so there was a little bit of cutting and reconstructing that needed to take place on the bottom of the jet, but the rest fit together well. I hope you enjoy the pictures!
  14. Kasl makes a replacement tail with the parachute pack in it. They have one for both Tamiya and Academy. I just ordered one to do this same project. The Polish F-16's are really good looking
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