perry Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroenpeters Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Well, at least it's not the voices that made you do it like with Ruzlkampf!! Can't wait to see some progress. Godspeed! Greetz, Jeroen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 As promised, some (bad quality) pics. Photography is not one of my talents. The strips for the top rudders have been firmly attached. If not they will get dislodged during the sanding process to get the aerofoil shape. After that it is Miliput time to fill in the areas between the strips. Positive critisism is very much appreciated as I have never built rudders before. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Another one with the top rudders dry fitted. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Brilliant work, this is modeling at its very best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azgaron Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Looking good! Very nice work Cees! Cheers, Håkan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Goodmorning and an update. The upper and lower rudders have been sanded to an aerofoil. Doesn't look like much progress has been made but it took some hefty sanding Next stop is Milliput between the ribs and shaping with a wet finger to show the sag of the fabric between the ribs. After this the elevators (which are a lot bigger) have to be made. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Some more pics, the rudders have been fitted with tape. Final fitting will be at an angle to make them less static and the elevators will be drooped. Any tips? Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Good to see that nobody looked at the last pics I posted last week The rudders and elevators have been scrapped. The Milliput experiment failed miserably. Even after having done one side each, they turned out too heavy, no detail and in general unusable. Back to square one then. I have been experimenting with another solution by covering the items with very thin plasticard, but as there is structure within, the trailing edge will be too thick, so I am planning to make them more simple by using a central front core which will be sanded to an aerofoil and two plasticard sections that will be glued at the end to form a trailing edge which will be very sharp. Hope that the gluejoints will keep them rigid and then using small strips of plastic to represent the ribtapes. I can use some advise here. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Cees, just my thought; would it be easier to use balsa, sanded to shape, detail added and sprayed with Mr Surfacer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 That's a shame about the rudders Cees. Personally I'm beginning to detest Milliput as the Yoko Ono of the modelling world. Or something. Good luck with your next try! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alburymodeler Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Good to see that nobody looked at the last pics I posted last week The rudders and elevators have been scrapped. The Milliput experiment failed miserably. Even after having done one side each, they turned out too heavy, no detail and in general unusable. Back to square one then. I have been experimenting with another solution by covering the items with very thin plasticard, but as there is structure within, the trailing edge will be too thick, so I am planning to make them more simple by using a central front core which will be sanded to an aerofoil and two plasticard sections that will be glued at the end to form a trailing edge which will be very sharp. Hope that the gluejoints will keep them rigid and then using small strips of plastic to represent the ribtapes. I can use some advise here. Cees Hi Cees, What I would suggest as a very good option, is how I used to do the High Planes Models kits. Basically the shape would be finished completely, the ribs drawn on with a very fine pencil, the piece secured firmly to the bench, and I would then use what I believe is possibly called a drafting pen. This tool is one unit with two "blades" or "nibs", the distance between each being determined by a small screw. I had modified the original point to a more square configuration to allow better use. What I would do is mix up a fairly flowy paint mixture and fill the nib. I would experiment on scrap to get the right thickness, and then use a metal ruler (with a bit of masking tape stuck to the bottom to a/ stop is sliding around too much, and b/ raise it slightly from the piece to avoid paint flowing back underneath by capillary action. Still following ??? Starting from top or bottom I would quickly draw the pen across the rib position and what would be left was a fine line. It may be very fine once dry but it is possible to go over it many times if needed to build up the depth. I think the effect was quite good, certainly better than what Hasegawa etc are pumping out currently for fabric effect. . With this method it can be very subtle, different thichknesses are possible, and it looks to be part of the machine whereas I think glued on plastic etc always looks too thick or loses its finesse with sanding.. May be worth giving it a go. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Hi Cees, Not sure if it is completely applicable to the control surfaces of your Halifax, but maybe the technique I used for the wings of my scratchbuilt AICHI Hansa , which I lifted from Papermodelers.com, and uses heavy (160 g/sqm) paper can be an inspiration ? One things is sure: paper soaked with white glue, primed and Futured is very strong. Hubert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Thanks for the advice chaps. update New elevators are being made. I read somewhere that for WWI aerofoils thin pasticard can be embossed from beneath with a ball point pen which shows on the other side like sewn fabric tapes (I considered Hubert's advice but the resulting lines would be very easily damaged). I tried it and it works like a charm although quite a heavy force is needed to get result but experimenting helps. I am please to see how it works out. Pics to follow early next week. Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lancman Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Cees for the Mossie what I did was to up scale the plans and transfer it to the thinnest plastic card I could get, then I glued it to the rudder and sanded it down and when I was happy enough I covered it in tissue paper and soaked it with liquid poly so it would melt onto the plastic and you get the fabric effect. HTH Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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