Derek B Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hi Cees, Depending on how you prefer to finish your model, carefully masked panel lines built up with various thicknesses of automotive aerosol acrylic primer works quite well (this is the method I use on my master patterns for such skinning effects). As for your TR1154/1155 radio sets, I also have to make these for my Beaufighter interior detail set...do you have any good reference sources for this equipment? Many thanks Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lancman Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hi Cees PM inbound mate regarding the radio sets, but here is how they looked in the Lanc. Graham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 --> QUOTE(derek B @ Dec 5 2006, 04:54 PM) 95512[/snapback] Hi Cees, Depending on how you prefer to finish your model, carefully masked panel lines built up with various thicknesses of automotive aerosol acrylic primer works quite well (this is the method I use on my master patterns for such skinning effects). As for your TR1154/1155 radio sets, I also have to make these for my Beaufighter interior detail set...do you have any good reference sources for this equipment? Many thanks Derek Hi Derek, Try this page: http://www.vk2bv.org/radio/r1155.htm There are lots of sites about the T1154 and R1155 combination. But as I said, I have a set at home, I can send you pics of them from all angles if you wish. Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Hi Cees, Thanks for the link. I think that having one at home is the best reference you could possibly have. Photographs of your TR set would be helpful to both me, and other LSP'ers, especially if you could also run a tape measure over it as well and provide its dimensions? Many thanks Derek There are lots of sites about the T1154 and R1155 combination. But as I said, I have a set at home, I can send you pics of them from all angles if you wish. Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Derek, I will do that soon and post the pics on this forum Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Thanks Cees, that would be very helpful (to all of us). Best regards Derek Derek, I will do that soon and post the pics on this forum Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 Sorry, no pics of the T1154/R1155 set up yet, but wil do that soon No update on the 1/32 Hally but here is a pic of the pilot's chassis of the full size cockpit version I am working on. I promise to start work on the 1/32 soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 Here's another pic. Well it's large scale isn't it? Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest UMIRESIN Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS ! ! Have you figgured the yellowed canopy problem out yet ? I read one question of whether that section of cut out could become a master of sorts for a better canopy . tho not from a vac I made all the clear canopys & gondola glass & that funny armadillo looking rear gunners position over solid masters that were first filled on my FW-200 Condor scratchbuild . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 Thanks, Yes, I have thought long and hard about that one and I think I will fill the cut out bits with milliput and shape the canopy from that to make a solid form. It's a relatively simple shape so crash moulding should do the trick. The other transparency shapes are well formed (but yellowed) and these I will fill with milliput as well. But that stage hasn't been reached yet (don't know when it will ) Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 7, 2007 Author Share Posted May 7, 2007 Here's a pic of the yellowed canopy, as you can see it's useless. The diagonal lines are wrong as well. As in every Halifax kit, these lines do not go over the perspex but are strengthening tubes on the inside of the flight engineers position. Next to it is the redundant part of the fuselage I cut out for the cockpit opening. As mentioned this will be the basis for a new mould (I hope) Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 7, 2007 Author Share Posted May 7, 2007 Here's the cut out fitted inside the transparency. They fit very well so can perhaps be used as a cutting base for the newformed canopy. (haven't decided yet) Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 7, 2007 Author Share Posted May 7, 2007 Some pics of the scratchbuild pilot's seat with back cushion. A wash should bring out the cushion effect. Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted May 7, 2007 Author Share Posted May 7, 2007 Sorry for the quality of the pics Cheers Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest UMIRESIN Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 Afternoon What I did in one case with a vac kit that the canopy was just as yellowed was buy some of the very fine higher grade plaster of paris . a super thin film of vaseline first in the old kit canopy & after the resin set i had a nice " master " to vac over . If you don't have a vacuform a dowel can be placed in the plaster before it sets and placed in a wood block after drilling a hole & the sqish/pull over method can be used . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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