Bf-109 / Me 109 K-4 Trumpeter kit 1/32

[ruti]

Hallo

 

Installation of the resin Bf 109 K-4 cockpit set for Hasegawa from Aires number 2044 .

The kit is the Bf 109 K-4 1/32 from Trumpeter.

Since the set from Aires is destined for Hasegawa, a lot of modification work was necessary to fit in the Trumpeter kit:

 

1.   Sanding the side walls of the kit

2.   Adapting the side panels of the Aires set to the kit:

      the side panels were too long and there were overlaps with the instrument panel.

3.   The covers for the centreline MK 108 were too long, therefore I had to shorten the cover.

       This created finally a gap, but it is not visible when assembled.

4.   The firewall to the engine was too high.

5.   Engine mounts are now only an auxiliary support,

       the engine is only fixed latteraly by the exhaust scoops and in the front from oil cooler for the reduction gear.

6.   Installation of the top MG 131 on the cowling, as the bases for the MG were lost due to the rebuild engine installation

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, the Aires set fits into the model and I was glad to have found a proper solution.

Thanks to the input from the forum!

 

Happy modelling

[MikeMaben]

Nice adaptation work Ruti .

[rafju]

Hi Ruti, nice start

but as I remember what was previously said, you can erase the cockpit floor ribs as this one was made of plywood.

[BGB]

Hello there!

 

Nice start on your 109 K  

 

Cheers

Boris

[Troy Molitor]

Looking good Ruti.   

[ruti]

Hallo

 

Few steps further:

Spraying and painting of the the cockpit

Installation of dash board from Red Fox and Seat belts from HGW

Assembling and spraying of the wings

Assembling the Airframe

Quite some work ahead!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happv modelling

 

[Antonio Argudo]

that Aires resin is a great improvement on the Trumpy cockpit, be aware the seatbelts attachment position, you should sand the trumpy ones as they are way too separate from each other , some reference, keep the good,  cheers

 

 

 

[ruti]

Thanks for the information! 

[ruti]

Hallo

A short information before we go into detail: After each spraying run or process I use a 3600 grid micromesh for grinding the outlines or corn or crumb from the surface. So that the surface is really smooth!

 

The actual camo was sprayed in the basic colors. I did not think about any weathering process to apply. But the camo was done I noticed the model looks uninteresting and nondescript for a real 109 in the late stages or days of war. Life and wear must be seen. So I went ahead with weathering in my mind. But how and what to do?

My decision was finally to start at the underside and get some black added to the base color. The relation between base and add color I use always or mostly 3 to 1. And dilution about twice as much as for a normal cover spra. or to use just highly diluted black and afterward to spray in a brighter shade with base color and C316 in the same ratio of 3 to 1.

 

On the upper side the thing was more complicated because of the already finished camo pattern. Here I worked the same way and had to be very careful. So I caused some overspray in the opposite field, but it makes the overall appearance more realistic, I think. The fuselage was because of three color demarcation a challenge by itself. Here I used highly diluted black by itself. Well, some grey hair later I was satisfied after some correction with base color in a brighter shade. By adding C316. Not C001! This is too bright. Well, after this job finished I took a rest for a meal.

 

After that the insignia waited for me. I used Montex mask. The working with them now was easier as in my early days of modelling. Since distortion because of transferring them into position is avoided by using transfer foil! The other thing is to avoid additional effort and risks. Stay lazy and you are on the safe side. That means simple spoken, what is less effort? To remove and reposition one mask or to remove and reposition four masks? One, correct. The black of the Balkenkreuz was in late days often greyish. So I used tire black C137 for it. For individual markings I used C002. The white was again C316. After this all was done, there was some darkening and more camo required, as the original pictures sow, and also the profiles which were my template and basis for this model.

 

Here again I used a mixture. Of RLM 81 and tire black C137. Highly diluted. Well, after the application I used some exhaust strains with diluted tire black, since black alone is too contrasty!

 

Now you can see the pictures step by step. Maybe I generate for your models some ideas or you have some ideas for me for making future models better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy modelling

 

[MikeMaben]

   Looks good Ruti.

[Rick Griewski]

I love it when a great paint job on a K variant is revealed.  It is tricky and time consuming work.  

[ruti]

Hallo

 

Next steps for finishing last parts:

 

Spinner and Propeller:

 

My first spinner with Montex masks: First I sprayed the complete spinner white Gunze # 316. Putting on the masks was tricky for me, because it was not easy to create a correct curve. After masking I sprayed the spinner black and the propeller blades RLM 70. I had to do this job twice, since the colour peeled of, because of multiple handling the mask for the correct spiral. I finished the spinner from the kit and the one from resin (Barracuda Studio).

 

 

Drop Tank: I made the tape out of plastic, because the etched part was much too hard to bend. I sprayed the tape with RLM 66, the tank with RLM 76. Then I applied some salt on it and let it dry. After a drying period, polished and shaded with diluted black and painted some silver on the bare spots.

Cockpit glasses and landing gear parts: straigt from the box.

 

 

 

After spraying the last work was to assemble all the parts.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I work on a batch of Thunderbolts in 1/48. You may follow this project on Brittmodeller.

 

Happy modelling