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Kiwi Corsair - Finished


mgbooyv8

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Thanks guys! :)

 

The edges of the control surfaces were sawn-in to make them visually separATE.

Now Meindert mentioned it, I couldn't let it pass. ;)

There was a minor misalignment of the edges at the unnderside of the ailerons.

The recessed lines were easily filled with Mr. Surfacer.

 

Then a bit of shading was executed on the white area's with light grey, followed by a second coat of white:

 51124481045_b5db96b32f_b.jpg

 

Faded Intermediate Blue will be sprayed next.

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Thanks, Mike! :)

 

Today is Kings Day in The Netherlands. 

That means a day off, which I spent modelling. :coolio:

 

Faded Gloss Sea Blue was sprayed.

For this I used Colourcoats Glossy Sea Blue, with white added.

Initially it looked a lot like my faded Medium Blue, which was Humbrol 144 with white added.

I wanted a bit more contrast, so more Glossy Sea Blue was added to the mix where needed.

Especially on the fuselage sides and the wing leading edges.

I ensured that the linen covered surfaces were lighter than the surrounding metal, as seen on pictures of the Kiwi Corsairs.

 

This is the result:

51142708191_5aabf25d81_b.jpg

 

51142920283_ecab4448a9_b.jpg

 

I'm happy with the result.

The paint can now harden for a couple of days before a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss will be added.

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Thanks, Kev! :)

Indeed, old kits with raised panel lines are still viable.

However, replacing them after sanding seams is more difficult than rescribing recessed panel lines.

That is something to consider, but it can be done. :coolio:

 

The Corsair got several coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss.

After three light coats, I did some light sanding, followed again with three light coats:

51152762337_035acf6341_b.jpg

 

51153666778_937bb12258_b.jpg

I think it is glossy enough for decals now, although it is hard to see on the pictures.

I can continue with painting of the wheel bays and installing the landing gear.

Oh, and I must not forget to spray the wheel doors! :)

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

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Hi guys,

 

The wheelbays were painted U.S. Interior Green (Humbrol 226) with a hairy stick.

Next, the main landing gear was assembled and sprayed aluminium (Revell 99).

Also the wheel doors were sprayed white, ensuring to not totally cover the primer coat of Revell 75:

51169043424_a8caf0e2b0_b.jpg

 

The propeller was sprayed as well with a Revell 75 primer coat and white tips  as a preparation for the yellow blade tips:

51168493288_c81e218fc7_b.jpg

 

This revealed that the sink holes on the blades were deeper than I hoped, so these were filled.

The filler is now curing. :)

 

To be continued...

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

The work continued on the undercarriage.

Masks were cut with my DSPIAE circle cutter, a very useful device:

51214054274_36d8513efc_b.jpg

 

The tyres were sprayed Revell 9 anthracite.

The wheels were glued to the struts, so no turning wheels on this model. ;)

The tail wheel strut was lengthened with 5 mm to get the right length for the later strut type.

Then, the gear could be assembled and glued into place, followed by the doors.

 

To obtain flat spots on the tyres, the whole model was dragged over a piece of sandpaper:

51213290311_dcca801cf2_b.jpg

 

And here is a view of the completed landing gear:

51213506763_c7fb47c3dc_b.jpg

 

To be continued.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks, Kev!

 

I started decalling.

Maybe you remembered that I bought the HGW wet transfer set.

 

It is basically a decal set with the carrier film on top instead of at the bottom.

The carrier film is also thicker than usual, because you remove it after the decal has been placed and dried.

HGW recommends to use gunze decal fluids with them.

I don't have it, so I used Micro Set and Sot instead.

 

I started with the decals below the wing and brushed Set and Sol liberally on the intended location and placed the decals.

Excess fluids were removed by rubbing the decal carefully with a cotton bud.

After a night drying I removed the carrier film carefully:

51262399233_f36e561dbb_b.jpg

 

The carrier film stuck to the white ink and took away small particles.

Wetting the film did not help.

Removing it from the blue portions was very easy and trouble free.  

 

The decal on the other wing had the same issue:

51263244965_a05f8fe9e4_h.jpg

 

That means touching up will be required. <_<

 

Whether it is caused by using Micro decal fluids instead of Gunze or whether I didn't gloss enough, I don't know.

I'm not totally convinced by these decals and I was too lazy to make some paint masks with my Silhouette cutter.

What I do know is that I need to touch-up. ;)

 

Well,  onwards and upwards, so they say.

 

To be continued...

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

I decided to buy some Gunze  Mr Mark Softer NEO to see if this improved the results with the HGW wet decals:

51292834679_d1c545cacc_b.jpg

 

51292117731_d5d1a27579_b.jpg

 

Errr... No.

What is clear from the pictures is that the white ink sticks too much to the carrier film.

As a result, flakes of white ink are taken away from the surface, especially from raised detail, when removing the film.

Touching up the white will be required on the upper wing roundels als well. <_<

 

Tonight, the fuselage has been decalled.

Here is a shot of the starboard side:

51292117296_cf686c6e57_b.jpg

 

Some decals are located on a smooth and very glossy area.

I hope this helps keeping the white ink on the surface.

I don't fancy touching up an irate Donald Duck! :P

 

Tomorrow I'll find out.

The decals need to dry 5-8 hous before you can peel off the film.

Fingers crossed.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

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