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1/32 Fly Hurricane windshield

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Looking at joining the Battle of Britain GB with a 1/32 Fly Hurricane Mk I but I am a bit put off by the windscreen armour plate being a separate part.


Does anyone have any suggestions for getting a clean join to the windscreen? Or is there another option?



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Thanks guys. I was considering future but was concerned that a goodly amount would be needed to get a consistent bond across the screen and was worried about the excess. Hadn't thought to clean it off. Um, der! Brain was in neutral there.


I have also used ammonia with good results when it comes to removing Future.


I have ordered some UV cement, so I will give both a trial.


Thank you for the guidance guys. :) 

Edited by Pete Roberts
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The Hobbyboss Spitfire V have separate armoured glass and I worried about getting a clean join and was advised to use Micro Kristal Klear which worked a treat, though it frightened me to death at first as it was initially cloudy, but when dry it cleared, this took a couple of days if I remember correctly..





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I spent thirty years as a professional model maker and our material of choice is clear perspex, we made everything out of it, I still do. They were all buildings with walls and glazing and had to be pin sharp with no glue marks at all for presentation and exhibition.

The 'glue' we use is Dichloromethane/ Trichloromethane a solvent and the beauty of it is with capillery action it runs along the two mating surfaces and then gases off and disappears everywhere else it's as thin as water.

If you wandered into any professional model workshop you will find them doing exactly the same thing all over the world and have done for decades, how do you think those perspex cockpit canopies on real aircraft were glued together? they actually went a stage further and melted shavings of perspex into the solvent to thicken it up for bigger joints. [ that's a bit nasty though fume wise]

This solvent I now obtain from Squires and I believe you can get it in some hardware shops as a floor polish stripper. 

50166349296_fae8037511_k.jpgIMG_7239 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr


The small bottle on the right is the commercially available 'modelshop' product.

50166614192_1f880f8938_k.jpgIMG_7242 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr


So here I'm gluing two thin sheets of 0.8mm think perspex end on.


50166611912_e886064e87_k.jpgIMG_7245 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr


This is the typical sort of brush to load a drop of the solvent on a tear drops worth literally.

50166616702_4c7d7438bc_k.jpgIMG_7243 by uniquenarrowgauge, on Flickr


So seconds later no mess and glued together.

If you spray clear acrylic car paint lacquer on the back of an etching you can use this technique to glue the frame to clear parts, that's how we glued etched window frames [ that have also been sprayed a colour onto clear perspex, say for a shop front or windows.





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