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DonH

How do you spray a good gloss coat?

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I will be using Tamiya X-22 and assume that the paint surface is adequately prepared. How do I transfer the gloss coat from the paint cup to the model so that it looks glossy and perfect?

 

Pressures? I usually aim for 15psi wish

Thinners/gloss coat ratio? Generally I go 50/50

 

I also heard of someone spraying a final coat of neat levelling thinner. Is this a good idea?

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I used 50/50 with leveling thinner and it worked perfectly and I think you psi is good too.  Kev and Chuck are your best sources for X-22.  I used it for the first time a short time ago and it will be my go to gloss from now on...

 

Bryan

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X-22 is indeed a fantastic clear coat and the above mentioned mix ratios and pressure settings work perfect

for me as well.

I gave Mr. Color 46 gloss and Mr. Color GX100 Gloss a try recently, mixed it with 50/50 with Levelling Thinner and it

gave me a very satisfying results as well. Dried rock hard within minutes and I'd rate it at least on par with Tamiya X-22.

Lothar

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Don, to address the notion of spraying a coat of pure thinners at the end: this is known as a 'flash coat', and is designed to help soften and level out the still-curing gloss coat. Some people swear by it; I've done it a few times, and can't really say whether it helped one way or the other. I think there are a lot of variables in play that would affect the outcome, much like airbrushing in general I guess. You could always do a quick A/B test by doing it to, say, one wing only, and seeing if it turns out better than the one you left alone.

 

Kev

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1 hour ago, LSP_Kevin said:

Don, to address the notion of spraying a coat of pure thinners at the end: this is known as a 'flash coat', and is designed to help soften and level out the still-curing gloss coat. Some people swear by it; I've done it a few times, and can't really say whether it helped one way or the other. I think there are a lot of variables in play that would affect the outcome, much like airbrushing in general I guess. You could always do a quick A/B test by doing it to, say, one wing only, and seeing if it turns out better than the one you left alone.

 

Kev

 

I subscribe to this statement, I tried it twice and I won't repeat it since there were no real and visible advantages.

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15 hours ago, DonH said:

I will be using Tamiya X-22 and assume that the paint surface is adequately prepared. How do I transfer the gloss coat from the paint cup to the model so that it looks glossy and perfect?

 

Pressures? I usually aim for 15psi wish

Thinners/gloss coat ratio? Generally I go 50/50

 

I also heard of someone spraying a final coat of neat levelling thinner. Is this a good idea?

Don, you might want to watch some videos on Youtube of guys not making airplane models, but car models.


The car guys take painting to the ultimate extreme among all forms of modeling in terms of smooth paint work.  

 

The first thing I would suggest is replacing the Tamiya acrylic clear with a lacquer substitute, assuming you have painted in lacquer or acrylic.  The lacquer clear will not bother either of those and it goes down by far the best, dries fastest, and most important of all, hardest.

 

If you painted in enamel, forget it!  

 

A common mistake is for people to not thin the clear coat enough.  Do multiple coats, and on your last coat, add a bunch more thinner to your mix than you did in the earlier coats, so that it is really, really "wet".

 

When everything is dried, if you still don't like it, you can smooth it with very fine grit sandpaper, and give another very thinned clear coat on top of that.

 

If you employ these techniques, you can make paint look like glass.  How far you want to take this on an aircraft model is up to you!

 

Turn the pressure UP too.  If you watch guys who are masters at paint work shoot clear, it is like a cannon blast of clear coat coming out of the airbrush.  A flame thrower of paint, if you will.  LOL.

 

 

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I tend to agree. I like X-22 a lot, and agree it works well. However, having shot very wet (thinned) coats of lacquer clear, it really is by far the strongest and hardest finish out there. I like MRPs clear, but also agree it takes a lot to cover.  Known to most, I prefer Model Masters "Ultra Gloss Clearcoat" lacquer decanted and thinned heavily through an airbrush.   Hell, I've even shot it straight out of the rattle can with decent luck:

 

 

DSC03925-XL.jpg

 

DSC03936-XL.jpg

 

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If you want really shiny, without any texture showing, yer gonna have to sand it with micromesh and/or polish it with a plastic polish.

TphUgH.jpg

Just depends on the look you're going for.

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Thanks all for your suggestions. I will give it a go in the next week or so when the base coat has fully dried (and I have the time).

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