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Tamiya Mosquito FB VI - 3/22 - Figure painting completed


Bstarr3

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Ok, back to the Mossie. The 20mm cannon assembly is actually a pretty fun little mini kit. Enough fiddly bits to take some concentration, but it builds into a very compact and cool looking gun bay. I had some trouble with installing it to the fuselage due to my own failure to read the directions and drill holes like ten steps ago, but we finally got it sorted.

 

The Barracuda resin ammo belts really do as some nice detail, although as expected they're a little more work to fit than the kit parts. Gun barrels were painted Stynelrez black and then brushed with Might gun metal pigment. Ammo belts were painted with brass and gold paints to differentiate the shell casing from the round.

 

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Also assembled and painted the 500lb bombs. I'm happy with the seam lines on 2/4 of them, which is frustrating because I put wire a lot of work into them and they looked good in primer. Oh well. I painted them with assorted RLM colors. I laid down a base layer of dark green, then did some dark and light postshading. Turned the pressure down on the airbrush until the paint was spitting, and applied random different shades. Honestly I'm not thrilled with it - it just doesn't look as good as I've seen other people acheive with a similar technique. Depending on how anal I'm feeling, I may just stop the paint and take them back to plastic, fix the seams better, and try again.

 

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Edited by Bstarr3
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Absolutely stunning.....I must I must start my Mossie had it in the stash for 2 years..........

I agree, you must must build this kit if you already own it! It is a little daunting in size, but it's the best model kit I've ever laid my hands on. The only aftermarket I think it needs is the resin ammo chutes, and brass gun barrels. Everything else is perfect out of the box.

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Superb is all i can say!!!

Can't really see the seams you mentioned on the bombs though. Just the tiniest bit on the front bit. You mentioned the airbrush spitting technique isn't to your liking/expectations, it sure does look nice to me, maybe some more variation in color would be the answer. When i paint bombs with heavy “use and abuseâ€, i usually make a mix of the salt technique, some flicking of paint from a toothbrush and pigments. That said i can't say anything other than the whole rendition of your mosquito is bloody marvelous my friend!

 

Karim

Edited by karimb
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Hey, thanks, Karim! As always, I'm humbled to receive such high praise from someone who puts out the quality you do.

 

I spent all afternoon working on these damn bombs.

 

Here's a clearer picture of what I didn't like about them before. I laid down some tan, the drops of which were too big - needed the pressure slightly higher. I put a light coat of green over this, thinking it would blend the spots back in, but it just tinted the spots green, so the end result looked like a zucchini.

 

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In an attempt to fix this, I applied a heavy yellow ochre oil filter, which I think blended things a little better

 

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And then decals and wet transfers. These band decals are a nightmare to put on - just so damn fidgety! And frustratingly, the transfers, though they went on well, were very diffcult to take the films off. I did two that ended up more or less like this, with a lot of paint coming off. I left the other two in hopes that someone might be able to suggest a better technique to get them off.

 

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Any suggestions? Wet them again? I think I'm going to try next time to make sure the transfer is good and stuck down but leaving some of the excess film hanging out so it is easier to remove.

Edited by Bstarr3
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That gun bay looks absolutely awesome!  Guns are the best part of some models, and I haven't been able to interest myself in anything without a gun.

 

I hafta say, my experience with those wet transfers is that they never seem to act the same twice.  And on the occasions where I've applied more than one quick coat of decal Softener, the clear film was almost impossible to remove without damaging the paint.  I've promised myself to make the paint surface more smooth and rely on decal softener less, next time.

 

And I agree...  Surplus film that isn't painted with decal softener is a good idea, on reflection.

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That gun bay looks absolutely awesome! Guns are the best part of some models, and I haven't been able to interest myself in anything without a gun.

 

I hafta say, my experience with those wet transfers is that they never seem to act the same twice. And on the occasions where I've applied more than one quick coat of decal Softener, the clear film was almost impossible to remove without damaging the paint. I've promised myself to make the paint surface more smooth and rely on decal softener less, next time.

 

And I agree... Surplus film that isn't painted with decal softener is a good idea, on reflection.

Thanks, Gaz. Those are both good ideas. I think I went too far with the microsol, to the point that I smoothed out parts of the film that woul have stuck up and been easy to remove. I'll try less in future applications. This is about the last of the transfers to use before I get to the post-paint exterior stencils. I'm using eagle cals for the markings and hgw for the stencils. There are some extras of the transfers (alternate marking for different planes) so I think I'll practice on my paint mule.

 

In general, the MRP paints I'll be using for the exterior seem to dry to a very smooth satin finish. Has anybody had success decaling without gloss coat, or should I plan on using that? I have allclad aqua gloss as well as future.

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What is the application process?

 

Thank you.

Sincerely,

Mark

Mark,

 

They are applied just like any wet slide decal, then left to dry. Afterwards (1-2 hrs of drying is recommended) you remove the film, leaving behind only the marking with no carrier film. It transfers the same way a temporary tattoo does.

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