Weathered NMF

[John1]

One pet peeve I've always had are models that represent hardworking combat aircraft that have an immaculate, chrome-like NMF finish. 

 

I know there are always exceptions to the rule but most color pics I've seen of NMF combat aircraft (P-51's, -47's, F-86's, etc) show most of these vets to be a faded, dull metalic grey. I've always struggled with this, any tips on how to replicate this finish are greatly appreciated.    

[Juggernut]

One sentence...flat coat over NMF paint of your choosing.

Edited September 9, 2017 by Juggernut

[LSP_K2]

One pet peeve I've always had are models that represent hardworking combat aircraft that have an immaculate, chrome-like NMF finish. 

 

I know there are always exceptions to the rule but most color pics I've seen of NMF combat aircraft (P-51's, -47's, F-86's, etc) show most of these vets to be a faded, dull metalic grey. I've always struggled with this, any tips on how to replicate this finish are greatly appreciated.    

 

I don't do a heck of a lot of BMF finishes anymore, but I just used to fog them over with Testors dull coat, and that took most of the sheen off. I've also considered blending some light grays with metalizers and spraying that on, but haven't yet tried it.

 

[BradG]

I think a lot of the fads like highly polished aircraft etc get started within major competitions. In tables of models, you need yours to stand out and often that is done with the latest technique in finishing. Not bagging comps at all (hell I run one myself), but it's just one of those things.

[dmthamade]

I've used oil paints to give NMF finishes a subtle grimy finish. Doesn't take much to do this.

 

Don

[Gazzas]

If you foil a plane, and want to get that oxidized look, you just alternate layers of clear coats. For instance, a matte coat over Future, over a previous matte coat which is also over a previous layer of Future. Each layer dissapates the sheen.

 

I know that putting clear coats over Alclad can dull it right down.

[Lothar]

For this one I used Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1200 with varying amounts of Mr. Gunze Aluminume, worked

like a charm:

 

 

(Not LSP, sorry)

 

Lothar

Edited September 9, 2017 by Lothar

[John1]

Here's a good example of a nicely weathered NMF finish!

 

[Gazzas]

But the question is: How long has this plane been in service? Bare aluminum comes off the line with a grained, close to mirror finish. Building it in a rough, oxidized state isn't possible with new aluminum.

 

It takes years to get the patina and grime-holding ability of the P-51.

[LSP_K2]

I think a lot of the fads like highly polished aircraft etc get started within major competitions. In tables of models, you need yours to stand out and often that is done with the latest technique in finishing. Not bagging comps at all (hell I run one myself), but it's just one of those things.

 

I agree; we routinely seem to see modelers building models of models vs the real thing at the shows, and even though I don't find myself being very attracted to those sort of things, they do look good on the tables, and I suppose that's what really matters to them, which is fine with me.

[John1]

But the question is: How long has this plane been in service? Bare aluminum comes off the line with a grained, close to mirror finish. Building it in a rough, oxidized state isn't possible with new aluminum.

 

It takes years to get the patina and grime-holding ability of the P-51.

 

True, this is an extreme example but most NMF combat aircraft looked somewhat like this.   Keep in mind, they weren't stored in climate controlled hangars and buffed after every flight like most warbirds are.  They were flown and then parked outdoors in the sun, rain and snow and until they flew again.  I'm guessing that after a month or two, most of that shininess had disappeared.  Wish more modelers took this into account but again, it's a pretty hard trick to pull off.  

[Out2gtcha]

Since finding foiling, I have found all you have to do is not clear them after burnishing. Especially if one grains the foil, it oxidizes and takes on a duller hue as time goes, just like the real thing. 

[Collin]

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=67769

[Guest Clunkmeister]

Getting together with friends at contests is great fun, but I've seen plenty of beautiful built models that look like beautifully built models.

 

I'm definitely in the minority, but I'd take a realistic finish over a beautiful finish any day.

 

A quick squirt of dullcoat goes a long way to making NMF look quite real, although your chances of your model being noticed on the table are greatly reduced.

Edited September 11, 2017 by Clunkmeister

[Gazzas]

I'm struggling with this exact concept right now. I have two NMF builds up next and I'm wallowing between super shiny and duller looking metal.

 

Do you have pictures of the birds you intend to build?  You can't go too far wrong if you have a photo to work from. 

 

Seeing a picture of a P-51 taken after 1947 (says US Air Force on the tail, so it could have spent years sitting in the sun) cannot be the sole justification for painting your 1944 era P-51 dull gray and calling it 'weathered'.   Some of them were brand-spanking new and shiny in 1943, 1944, and 1945.

 

Color me anal about metals, but trying to use paint to depict real NMF is trying to lie to your brain.  Some try to lessen the lie by using different shades of metalized paints...  but your painted model will never act like a true metal aircraft.  A metal aircraft's panels, sniny and new, or dull and old, look different as the light and your perspective to the metal change.    Just the way it is.  No matter how good your paint job is...it ain't metal.

 

The joy of many USAAF subjects is the large amount of photos available to help you decide what your model should look like.

 

Gaz