Marcel111 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thx guys! Chuck mentioned that I will be challenged to get the rest of the build up to the LAU-10 standard, and he is right. With all the work I had put into the Zunis, I didn't want to have the Rockeyes pull down the overall standard of the ordnance I am throwing on this Phantom. So I have invested pretty heavily in these. They are the AMS Mk.20s that I mastered for my Chico build. I did however create a custom decal sheet for them. Also, a while back someone let me know that the windows I created for the Mk.20 master were too large. I checked my references and he was right, so apologies for that. . I subsequently had decal windows made, reduced in size by 66%. These make things look far better, not only is the size right but it all looks a lot cleaner with decals as opposed to masking and airbrushing that little bit of detail. Cheers, Marcel NavyF4s, Harold, chuck540z3 and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Outstanding! Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Outstanding! Ditto! I'm so glad you decided to hang out here Marcel. This Phantom will be awesome! Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Oh c'mon Marcel - those cables to the release pistons aren't even simulating the braided type used. It's like you're not even trying anymore... But seriously, there is some beautiful work there. As I think someone already said, they look like they've come from a manufacturer's brochure. Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thx guys! Chuck mentioned that I will be challenged to get the rest of the build up to the LAU-10 standard, and he is right. With all the work I had put into the Zunis, I didn't want to have the Rockeyes pull down the overall standard of the ordnance I am throwing on this Phantom. So I have invested pretty heavily in these. They are the AMS Mk.20s that I mastered for my Chico build. I did however create a custom decal sheet for them. Also, a while back someone let me know that the windows I created for the Mk.20 master were too large. I checked my references and he was right, so apologies for that. . I subsequently had decal windows made, reduced in size by 66%. These make things look far better, not only is the size right but it all looks a lot cleaner with decals as opposed to masking and airbrushing that little bit of detail. Cheers, Marcel Those came out perfect!!! I am glad I found this thread, i was going to remove the small windows from the master, but forgot about it. I got some AOA Decals, he suggest removing the windows and using his decals. The next batch of Rockeyes will have a smooth nose for the decals. Chek 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Marcel Geez, completely knocked off my feet .... brilliant work Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I'm not even interested in jets, but this is captivating work. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel111 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) The Peter, thx Kev! I have now run into some headwinds. Here is where I am with the underside and inside wings of the model: The GT belly strap is on and the starboard ACS vent update is also fitted. I was able to get the belly strap off the block without breaking the sections, but proceeded to break them multiple times as I attempted to sand them smooth. After gluing the sections in place, I proceeded to sand the strap so that it would be less pronounced. That's no slight to GT, I cannot imagine that it's possible to produce resin thin enough for this application. Here is a closer view of the modified ACS section: I also own the Wingman S conversion set, here is a side-by-side with the GT set (GT on the left): I prefer the GT set since the actuator detail is more crisp. I also like the way the fence is engineered to slot into the wing, plus I like the way the outer wing section is designed to be assembled to the kit inner wing. Here is the difficulty I have run into: I cut out the inner wing slat sections as required, then fitted the inner slat sections. They are well aligned with the upper flying surface: However, the underside of the resin inner wing slatted section seems to sort of go up, so that the protruding slat lip is in line with the rest of the inner wing (when it should be protruding) but the actual wing part is not in plane with the rest of the wing: I had obviously noticed this when dry-fitting the resin, but at that point it was too late to do anything about it since I had already cut up the inner wing. I glued the parts in thinking that I would just have to live with it but by now I am thinking I will need to trash all the lower fuselarge and inner wing work I have done, order another Tamiya Phantom kit and start that part of the build all over again. Cheers, Marcel Edited April 10, 2016 by Marcel111 A-10LOADER 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) It certainly looks like GT have misinterpreted the drooped lip of the leading edge. Rather than ditching your wing completely, might a better option be to add the slat lip to the Tamiya kit's original L/E flap? It would seem the easier route, especially if the slats are in the parked position. Edited April 10, 2016 by Chek Marcel111 and NavyF4s 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel111 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Chek, thx for those pics, very useful. I will be adding a lip on the kit parts, pretty much as you describe, except that I will start with new kit parts. If I tear off the slats as you see them above and then glue on the original sections, I will have lost so much detail and have made such a big mess that I think its a lot easier, albeit costlier, if I just start fresh. Cheers, Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbetty Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 why not order just the sprue with the wing section instead of buying a whole kit? Marcel111 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghatherly Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 It certainly looks like GT have misinterpreted the drooped lip of the leading edge. Rather than ditching your wing completely, might a better option be to add the slat lip to the Tamiya kit's original L/E flap? It would seem the easier route, especially if the slats are in the parked position. Hey Guys I want to chime in here because the resin part is correct. The installation is missing the resin Plug that fills the end of the wing once you remove the old Leading edge flap, and it look like to much material was removed form the wing tops. Here is an excerpt from the instruction sheet to clarify the problem you are having with the alignment: Install the inner slat leading edge inserts. First remove the kit wing leading edge along the existing hinge lines top and bottom. Note the top and bottom lines do not line up and are not directly above one another, but have a stagger if viewed from the side. Look at the insert and you will see this. Install the right and left wing plugs first, and then install the IW Slat insert. Tack-glue using CA to position correctly. When satisfied you have the position correct, fill in the seams with CA glue. Excess CA glue is common, and it can easily be cleaned up with de-bonder so that you have a nice filled seam. The problem you are having is because you used the same line on the top an bottom of the wing. Also, no need to buy a new wing, GTR offers free replacement parts once even when a mistake is made, you just cover the postage. Hit me in email and I will get you fixed up. Also, in looking at your pictures it look like you may need new wing tops. I have spares I can send you as well..... Hope this helps, as you are off to a great start......oh, and don't for get the reinforcing plates between the main gear bay and the speed brake! Gary NavyF4s and Uncarina 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcel111 Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hello Gary, I just don't see how the parts can be correct, because the wing profile of the resin part seems different to the wing profile of the inner part of the wing. If you fit the resin part to line up with the upper wing section, you get the result I ended up with. If you fit the part such that the bottom is in plane with the (kit) inner wing section, the top of the resin part will be sunk with respect to the (kit) inner wing section. If I removed too much material at the top, then you're saying the resin part should be moved forward, but then it seems like the slat would protrude forward with respect to the rest of the wing? The plug you provide will close the gap on the inside but not change the out-of-plane issue. Do you have any pics of the completed parts, fully assembled onto the kit to show? That would help clarify this. Thx, Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 What a bummer. Surely there is a completed example of this wing modification out there somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 (edited) I agree, Chuck and Marcel. The only fair resolution - that is fair to both the vendor and end users - will be to show exactly how the provided parts are intended to be used on the intended kit. I'm not likely to use it myself - a B, an E, a J, 2 x K's and 2 x Ms will likely sate my Big Phantom needs in this lifetime but were I to decide an S as last of the line was required, I'd like to think (or even better know for sure) that the aftermarket I'd invested in will work. And Gary seems confident it's user error, so it'd be great if that could be demonstrated. Edited April 11, 2016 by Chek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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