jeroenpeters Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 About to start work on the He-111 and eyeballing the White metal landing gear that is available for this kit. Has anyone have any experience with these (or SAC legs in general??) - Are they stronger? - Are they more accurate? - Are they more crisp? - Do they need more clean up? i.e. Why should I buy these (or not)?? Hope to hear! Cheers, Jeroen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 There's a whole swag of SAC parts on Aussie eBay at the moment, and while I'm tempted by some of them, I've heard quite a lot of negative reports about their products, so I haven't taken the plunge. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroenpeters Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 There's a whole swag of SAC parts on Aussie eBay at the moment, and while I'm tempted by some of them, I've heard quite a lot of negative reports about their products, so I haven't taken the plunge. Kev Hi Kev, In what way? Detail? Finish? I think the Revell landing gear is fine on it's own. I just want to know why people buy these... I'm an AM addict, but not a thief of my own wallet (like we say here) Cheers, Jeroen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 In what way? Detail? Finish? Just vague things about them being "not very good". I'm pretty sure I've heard that in some instances they're just direct copies of the kit parts in metal. Let's hope someone with more direct experience than mine can enlighten us. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 I hear you with the AM stuff, I was just adding up what I had into my Corsair build, $128,00 in AM not including the kit. Ouch This thread was started here a few days ago regarding these landing gear. Looks like a waste of money to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroenpeters Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) Just vague things about them being "not very good". I'm pretty sure I've heard that in some instances they're just direct copies of the kit parts in metal. Let's hope someone with more direct experience than mine can enlighten us. Kev Thnx Ron. Missed that topic. I think I'll wait for G-factor as well. They will go great along with my brass balls! White metal is not known for it's ruggedness. Only advantage could be detail, but if they are similar, it's a no go. Edited December 11, 2011 by jeroenpeters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlow Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 (edited) Just a couple of observations/questions of my own. I don't own any SAC parts, but have seen them in reviews etc... It has never been clear to me whether they are merely molds taken of the original parts and then cast in white metal..? They do look, along with most white metal castings, like they would need more/different clean up than the original parts Often some of the parts look like they're bent and would need straightening My main question though is whether white metal is actually more robust than IJ plastic? Plastic is brittle compared to white metal, but will these parts gradually sag and bend over time? The appeal of brass parts is more obvious as it is considerably more robust. I certainly don't want to question or put down a product I don't own, but I'd have thought in our scale white metal wouldn't be up to the job long term...? Matt EDIT - Ron's link seems to answer ALL my questions... Edited December 11, 2011 by mattlow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroenpeters Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 EDIT - Ron's link seems to answer ALL my questions... Agreed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Just vague things about them being "not very good". I'm pretty sure I've heard that in some instances they're just direct copies of the kit parts in metal. Let's hope someone with more direct experience than mine can enlighten us. Kev I have a couple of sets that I got awhile ago, and they are direct copies for the kit parts. They aren't as nice as the G Factor stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroenpeters Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 I have a couple of sets that I got awhile ago, and they are direct copies for the kit parts. They aren't as nice as the G Factor stuff. Is that even legal? If PCM even bases their parts on Hasegawa stuff they get the full load... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Is that even legal? If PCM even bases their parts on Hasegawa stuff they get the full load... You're talking about "legal" in the AM business? You'd be surprised how many "copy cats" are/were around, no offence to the legits. In the past i bought quite an amount of "aftermarket" detailing products to be used with a certain vacuform brand, and after some research i found them to be just resin copies, some of them rather crude, of different mainstream kit parts. (e.g. radio fronts, prop blades, crew seatings, etc, etc.)....eventually i could have found better substitutes in my scrapbox, go figure. As for gearlegs: GO WITH G-FACTOR (as far as possible or applicable) J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Having used them on my Tamiya Spitfire builds, here's what I think of them. In the case of the Spitfire, they are identical to the kit items. There is a bit of clean up involved with some seam lines. My sets weren't bent so didn't need any straightening. I did polish them up and then masked off the silver part prior to painting which to me, looked better than silver paint would have. A bonus for me was I lost the original tail wheel strut so having the set got me out of that pinch. I also have their set for the Revell F-4E and was hoping that they may have corrected the problems with the kit's nose gear. Unfortunately it doesn't look that way as again, they're just a copy of the kit parts. Again, nothing looks bent but oh well. I havent check the set for the Trumpy F-8E but that they "say" corrects the shortness of the stock gear. Their Dragon BF-110 set however, is a bit different. It doesn't have the accordion boots on them so that gives a different look. I don't have that set though. So in my experience, I would say they're ok if you've broken or lost the kit parts but are a bit of an extraneous upgrade. More for the sake of doing it than anything else. Hope that helps Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeroenpeters Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 You're talking about "legal" in the AM business? You'd be surprised how many "copy cats" are/were around, no offence to the legits. J. Thnx Jack! I agree. But I remember the **** PCM got for their FW190A1 release. They supposedly used some Hasegawa parts as a basis for their own. A big topic / hit on this forum. If SAC uses Revell parts as a master. Why is that accepted?? I don't get it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Here's a related thread: linky Personally - I'd stick with the parts in the kit. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lancman Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 I got the Trumpy Hurricane set and again they were copies of the kit stuff but they were bent and even when they were straightened they just wouldn't fit so I used the kit parts, £12 or so down the drain as far as I am concerned. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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