sillymodeler

I'm very impressed with that night scene!

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Arctic Decals, Kellerkind Crew, Rexx exhaust, CSM wheels, LF propeller.
 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hi gentlemen
This is my last construction, something different today ... this is the Wessex  HU 5 from Fly.... the kit is a "short term", the plastic is thick, the engraving is sometimes "soft", especially the multitude of small holes supposed to represent the rivets (they are raised on the real machine) but no matter that works, we have some nice resin parts ( cockpit consoles , rotor head , wheels etc ....)The decals are thin and nice , for 4 different colorful helos .. The instruction sheet is .....not clear , and I dare to say "messy" , ... But stop chatting, there is a complete review of the kit here....... Well, don’t expect a very detailed construction like "Shark 64 did it here some time ago, I’m nowhere near as skillful as he... My main improvement is in the cargo cabin. there is a lack of detail inside, and God knows this area is " occupied," so I scratch built it, and too bad if nothing will be seen afterwards..... I put some raised rivets here and there on some hatches, panels and so on, especially around the windscreen, for a more pleasing effect, I added some "pipes" along the fuselage on both sides , the rotor head needs more details , a good picture is very useful because of this complex area ........ what else ??, the paint scheme is not provided, but it's nothing, I just painted a big D on the fuselage, the decals are from the kit...... Is it perfect ???? no , but despite some issues , it was a cool trip ......so enjoy ....or not thanks for watching
Alain
some in progress pictures





 





 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello everyone.
 
This is my last finished 1/32 Hasegawa, Ki-61-I “飛燕 (Hien)”
 
I chose this model as I still wanted to explore metal cladding. Hien is a suitable aircraft for this purpose because it was shipped from the factory in bare metal and then various camouflages were applied by units. I used the usual kitchen aluminum foil and water-soluble glue for the metal cladding.
The hand-painted random camouflage applied to Hien is another attractive point for modelers. So, I hand-painted a crooked camouflage pattern on the fuselage and wings with an airbrush like a mechanic of the time. It was the most enjoyable thing in this build.  One of the advantages of metal cladding is that you can redo the camouflage paint as many times as you like.
 
Unlike other Japanese airplanes, Hien was equipped with a liquid-cooled DB601 engine produced under license. However, it suffered from low reliability and low mission-capable rates due to insufficient craft quality and frontline supply, and the inexperience of mechanics on liquid-cooled engines. However, as long as it was up and running, it performed as well or better than its elder brother Bf109E.
 
I adopted a paint scheme inspired by the 68th squadron that fought in Papua New Guinea. The squadron was one of the first to receive the newly developed Hien. Papua New Guinea was far from its homeland and probably one of the harshest battlefields in WW2. Many died not only from battle but also from starvation and disease as supply lines were destroyed. It is said during the war: “Java is paradise, Burma is hell, and you can't return home from New Guinea even if you die”. Actually, most of the members of the 68th squadron, as well as many other soldiers, are still lying there.
 
It’s basically OOB build. I just used metal gum barrels and pitot tube. The squadron marking is a combination of hand-painting and some extra decals. I also slightly modified Hasegawa’s lovely kit figure to one that resembles tropical pilot uniforms. (One more thing, I would like you to assume that my model is a reproduction of an aircraft whose tailwheel was lost in an accident on the battlefield. The tailwheel is still lying somewhere in my room.)
 
I hope you all enjoy the model. Sorry for my plastic cup as usual!

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, everyone
 
I recently finished building Frank Luke’s SPAD XIII.
 
Frank Luke was America's second highest ace in WW1. He shot down 14 balloons and 4 planes just in 10 sorties in 8 days. After making an emergency landing behind enemy lines, he refused to surrender, returned fire with a pistol, and was shot dead.
 
Roden's SPAD XIII is a little difficult to assemble in some aspects, but the proportions is good. One of the shortcomings of Roden's kit is the quality of the decals. The decals for the unit markings of the 27th aero squadron, to which Frank Luke belonged, were not similar to the real ones, so the decals were printed by tracing photos of the real marking. The checkered pattern on the wings was also corrected to four rows, although the kit has three rows. I used photo etching hexagon mesh for sides of the engine cowling and stealed Vickes guns from extra parts of Copper State Model’s Nieuport kits. 
 
The Frank Luke figure was sold on Amazon, and although I don't know the manufacturer, the quality is very good.
 
I also built a Hispano-Suiza 8Ab engine. This is an independent engine kit by RODEN. It is very finely crafted. I highly recommend this kit for everyone. I want more engine kits to be released!