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Posts posted by themongoose
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I’ve set the flaps a couple different ways on the ones I built. The method that seem to work out the best was attaching the hinge to the flap itself with just a touch of thick CA glue. Then I positioned the whole flap on the wing that way, I kept the alignment correct while the glue set up. Then I applied extra thin cement to the hinge on the flap to permanently, adhere it. For me the times that I attach the hinge to the wing first, the flap never sat square against the hinge for whatever reason… Probably human error
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All that paint application looks beautiful. So many samples all applied super smooth!
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Bekim, have you thought about using somebody like 3-D wild to sell and release your designs? Maybe that would take care of some of the past issues with selling individual files. It sure would clean up the shipping for some of us. I Think I would buy one of everything I’ve seen you design, if I didn’t have to ship it from over the pond.
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Those screens are looking, pretty smart!
- Mel and F`s are my favs
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How do you do it? That whole brand new nose section is painted and black and It looks absolutely perfect!
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Cool backstory and how great to find the aftermarket to make it come together. Perfect omen for starters
- Mark_C and blackbetty
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weathered! love the uniqueness of it
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5 hours ago, MikeMaben said:
Looks good Mike, not often seen built .
…and not to this level some cool interior work going on here!
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Beautiful!!
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5 hours ago, mozart said:
Not only you Quang, your analogy is spot on. Sealing edges with varnish is a total waste of time, as is gloss coating the surface (sorry Denis). The key factors are careful positioning of masks, spraying at around a right angle to the surface, getting spray pressure and distance right and quite possibly most importantly, analysing when and if it's absolutely necessary to replace the masking piece or whether a few bits of masking tape will keep an area clear. I try to get away with as little precise work as I can, thereby limiting the chance of overspray, gaps, edges or whatever.
Not sure what the issue with gloss is? Plus, you can spray any mix of clear from flat to gloss and in between. Since it’s clear you never ever see it later, plus it’s all covered by your top coat. Totally invisible insurance policy to make sure you’re never doing touch ups. Everyone does it differently.
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8 hours ago, quang said:
Look no further, when you have paint seeping under mask, it means that you’re doing something wrong: either your paint is too diluted, your mask doesn’t stick properly or your spray angle is not vertical to the edge of the mask. You got to resolve one (or all) of these issues first.
Sealing the edges with varnish is like putting a band-aid on a flat tire.But it’s only me
More like an emergency brake. If anything else escapes your notice, you have no problems because paint can’t get under or around the clear. If you paint alot of low viz camo probably little to worry about but when you spray colors an insurance plan saves lots of wasted time later for little to no effort up front.
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Their kabuki masks are excellent!
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I only spray the edges of the mask as i apply them for the reasons listed above And i spray whatever clear i have handy since it will be covered either by color coat or whatever the final clear coat is.
in general i don’t clear anything before masking. My usual order of operations is:primer, color coats, then mask up and paint the lettering or stars & bars type insignia, then wet sand gently to take down any paint edges that built up around masking, then gloss clear, decals, and final clear coat.
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8 hours ago, MikeC said:
Why do you do that? Not challenging it, I'm interested to know.
No worries, happy to share
2 reasons, it seals the edge so even if the edge of the tape isn’t down solid no paint will seep under the edge and mess up what’s already done, and then on the edges between colors that have already been applied you won’t get a fine line of color that seeps between 2 pieces of masking that are butted up against each other.
for instance, on the starts and bars when you cover the white and the red with the mask there is a joint between the two. Blue paint can wick between the masks and end up messing up the two colors already sprayed.
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Forgot to mention this, do you spray a clear coat over each mask edge before you spray color? If not that’s a great thing to start.
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Ok, here’s a practice set. Frisket is on the star in the bottom of this pic. Star in top of poc has it removed and red is sprayed but not covered yet.
now everything that’s not blue is covered.
final product. Not crisp but this was when i learned about using the frisket over the whole mask so that each layer of mask stays aligned.
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The secret to this is frisket. Draw all the stars together, i.e. you only have 1 star with each of the others inside of it. Lay out the star on the aircraft, remove the frisket leaving just the outer star on the aircraft. Paint it all white. Reposition the mask still on the frisket and burnish it down. Remove the mask for the red color. Spray your red and everything matches up perfect.
Back in a bit with pics to help with my description.chris
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Academy F18D Hornet 1:32 "Night Attack"
in Works in Progress
Posted
That’s going to look great on your display stand