jenshb

If you want drawings, it is hard to beat Montfortons book "The Spitfire Engineered". Drawings created from actual measurements and original blueprints of almost every fuselage component you can think of. Only covers the Mk. IX and XVI though.

No, the PR.XI did not have a pressurised cockpit. The PR.X did.

Got the Baldwin Motion kit in the stash. Looking forward to see how you solve the white trim - the dark green metallic is a gorgeous colour.

The catamaran configuration gave less drag for supersonic intercepts, so it was certainly used operationally. When fitting the same launch rails on the wing pylons (not wingtips), that configuration gave less drag for subsonic intercepts.

Very crisp and clean work.

Wow! Terriffic detailing here. You've got my attention.

Don't forget the superb Reedoak figures - they too could require some patches to really set them off.

That's good to know - thanks Tim and Iain.

I was just thinking of this build this morning; how does the material take to scribing panel lines? Both along and across the 3D printing direction?

Fantastic! And if you can't decide on a squadron, just print another one:)

The original seat was a North American design, but later some nations replaced the North American seat with Martn Baker Mk. 5 (they had the metal pans on the side of the parachute pack, so looking a lot like Mk.4s). Among them was the Royal Norwegian Air Force that started replacing them in 1959/60.

If you are using the Aires pit, I'd check the length that it mathches the kit fuselage. In my experience, Aires castings tend to exhibit noticeable shrinkage, and the longer a casting is, the worse it gets. Their F-15 cockpit for example - if the rear cockpit bulkhead is aligned with the panel line on the kit fuselage (where that structure would be), the rear bulkhead for the Bay 5 doesn't line up, but is something like 3 mm too far forward. With the Black Box cockpit being in two parts, you may be able to locate them where they should be...

That must have cost you a fortune in cocaine:) Seriously though - nice one with a bot of action.

No, RVAH-14 also had late Vigis - the image I posted shows the long LERX and straight intake lips. They did also use the early version in similar markings.

If you like a Mojito - RVAH-13:) Although my personal favourite is RVAH-14 with the eagle head on the nose. Intend to finish my Trumpeter Vigi in those markings whenever I get around to it. I'm still amazed that you've managed to design a complete model in less time than many people would build a kit.

Looking at pics, they certainly seem to be a very dull aluminium or even light grey. On the 2000B, C and -5, they look the same as the light grey of the camo to me.

Now then...where are you going to put it?:)

I'd be inclined to agree with that.

Are you relying on buttjoins only for the spanwise (i.e. parallell to the longitudinal axis) joins?

It looks fantastic...

I'd say leave it for now - you can always add more weathering later if you want. Easy to add, harder to take away. I generally find that it's best to stop before you think "enough". Once I think it's "enough", I always regret it as having gone too far...

Aren't Maestro subcontracting the work out to Master though?

A friend - now deceased - was working with Air Traffic Control at Stavanger-Sola and recalled how the RAF Canberras were targets for Norwegian F-84Gs sent up to intercept them (for practice). As the F-84s climbed, so did the Canberra, until the F-84s started "mushrooming" (the term he used for the F-84s not being able to sustain their altitude). As they did, the Canberra started barrel rolling around the F-84s. The fighterpilots did not find that funny and told the Canberra pilot to stop messing about:)

What a finish...well done!

Yep. When I was at University, I was assisting Thomas Douay-Whiteside who invented these markings to make propellers more conspicuous to people on the ground. Their main "problem" was that it gave the impression that the propeller was spinning off-centre, when the intended effect was to make a "flickering" effect with alternating black and white bands. The improvement from what I can recall was to make the bands more symmetrical and have bands at the tip and root do the flickering instead. Don't know if there was further research into that or if it was implemented wider.