CANicoll

I mentioned I was planning on doing this same aircraft again, and have another kit (same one) waiting on the sidelines. I forgot to drill out the locations for the centerline sway braces the first time around, so I drilled out the holes on the new kit, and will measure to locate on this one. I also did some playing around trying to get fuel stains and streaks on the drop tank at the fill cap.
 
 

 

 

 
 

I think I'm calling this one done. I'll get some better pics next weekend when I get back in town.  
 

 

 

 

Here is a different one for you:  The L-1049G Super Constellation.  Unmistakable aircraft!

Here is a different one for you:  The L-1049G Super Constellation.  Unmistakable aircraft!

Here is a different one for you:  The L-1049G Super Constellation.  Unmistakable aircraft!

I do.

Spitfire - beautiful
P-51D - equally beautiful
 
..but just ahead for me is the Mosquito FB VI

I agree with you about the painting. Further in the old days other than unstable pigments the oils and resins in paint  tended to “yellow” the finish when fully cured and exposed to the elements over time. That’s why old finishes usually appear warmer whilst newer paints appear colder. Colour matching was not as precise as today as is quality control. No two batches of paint were ever exactly the same shade. I learned the hard way when the company I worked for painted an old large cinema that had kalsomine wall that soaked in a huge amount of paint. We could not get a batch large enough to do the whole job in one go. We requested the paint manufacturer to be extra careful with mixing the colour in the batches. As we painted behind scaffolding we could not see the result until it was removed. When the scaffolding was removed there was a patch work of different shades of cream. It was a nightmare to correct. Sometimes I wonder that some modellers are too fussy and angst too much over paint shades and colour charts. Modern pigments as well may not replicate the right look of old pigments that are no longer in use or age the same way. To me If it’s close enough it’s usually good enough. 

As a quick update, this model was able to win first place in the 1/32 US Prop category at IPMS US Nationals in Omaha last week. What a surprise! I'm very happy with the result and really appreciate the encouragement, advice and resources here on the LSP forums. Thanks again. 

Beautiful job, William!  your build is terrific (love your added details) but putting into a simple scene really adds a lot - great job!
 
Chris

Chek, no ortho on this WWII pic:
 
Indeed real precision is needed to get neat checkers especially if you want them to end up exactly like on the real thing. Everything needs to be correct including the KIT tail shape. One thing goes wrong, everything will go wrong.
I admit the checkers on my horizontal tail plane is not as accurate as I would like it, but in my defense I couldn't find a clear plan view of the original to base my pattern on.
 
Brian,Like I said, this was done the old school way with just pen and paper. My Mac is so old that I cannot get my ancient graphic programs to work. Furthermore I don't have a printer anymore.
The hardest and most time-consuming was cutting the square decals with frisket knife and steel ruler.
 
We live in uncertain times. Catastrophe is impending. There's more to it.Watch this space!
 
Cheers,
Quang

ENTER THE BRASS

Like I told you, I ordered the Eduard interior set even before I had the kit. When the latter arrived, I began to have some buyer's remorse as the Revell cockpit appeared to be very accurate and rather complete compared with the documentation I had.
 
But then, I told myself: "I paid for the brass, let's start building it". This is when I realised the Eduard was definitively a great update. There's no need for remorse.
 
Eduard add-ons compared with kit plastic parts.

 

 

 
Eduard also improved their Instrument panels. The printing and colors are more precise and realistic. Not as good as Yahu but close.

 

 
The seat was mainly stock with brass details.

 
I added a milliput cushion to give some color to the cockpit. Seat belts are from Fine Molds. I managed to break the shoulder belts as I tried to bend them. So I cut them off at the buckles and replaced the remaining parts with tin foil from a wine bottle. I did empty the bottle first 

 
Inside left fuselage side painted with Model Master acrylic Interior Green with Eduard black boxes

 
For little that can be seen, the floor was just painted tan with darker streaks to simulate the plywood – remember this was cheap plywood not fancy exotic varieties. 

 
I followed Eduard's instructions and realized that the radio was mounted backwards    Had to correct it afterwards.

 
A quick dry-fit to make sure everything is in place before painting on the details, shading and a final touch-up of the interior.

 
That's all folks.
 
Hope you like it. Questions and remarks are welcome as usual.
 
Until next time,
Cheers
Quang

Since there are already many WIPs going on with this kit, I won't bore you with a step-by-step reporting nor a building in real time.
Instead I'd try to share with you my insight and my modelling notes in the hope that you'll find them of some use in the building of your own Revell kit.

The first thing I do when I start a kit is wash the parts with lukewarm water and some soap. The parts are left overnight to dry out and given a coat of primer. The primer will help to enhance the details on the mouldings so that I'll have a clearer sight of what's good (details, panel lines,... ) and what's wrong (sink marks, warpage,...) with the plastic.



The fuselage of this particular kit is separated at the tail, in provision for a later version with the dorsal fin fillet. I'd start by completing each half fuselage (just like on a conventional kit). Make sure that the mating surfaces of the RH and LH half-fuselages are perfectly flat otherwise the resulting fuselage will be warped.
The fore and aft fuselage-halves are glued using Tamiya thin plastic cement. Then they are dry- fitted to make sure the assembly is perfectly straight and not looking sideways. The join is then secured by flooding it with 2-part epoxy glue.
 

 
Revell gives us the cockpit in the shape of a cage (2 sidewalls + a floor) on which are grafted all the details ( seat, instruments, ...). Nevertheless my experience with the 1/32 FLY Hurricane - which uses a similar setup - led me to believe that it would be convenient both for painting and assembling, to have the sidewalls integral with the fuselage.
 

 
What we have now are two complete fuselage halves with all the details in situ, ready to be painted.
HTH
Quang
Next step: adding the fin fillet.

Hoss,
 
Gorgeous build and amazing job with all of the AM stuff.  The research you did and the settings you put your plane in are excellent.  Just fantastic and the photography is another highlight.  Great job!
 
Chris

Thanks for your nice words Chris, much appreciated.

Awesome!!!  LOVE the display, great work!
 

Tolga, just amazing - your finish is absolutely sublime - not overdone, not underdone.  Just perfect.  Great job!  Chris

Most of my stuff is built with a view to shipping . I like building more than collecting . Tanks as far easier , dioramas the same if you glue everything down firmly ....aircraft .....
 
I use ezy line for any rigging etc as that will have a degree of stretch . Pitot tubes etc , replaced with brass tube so they can be slid off the plastic stub of the kit part , propellors unglued and packed separately, I've even started to leave stores unglued so the new owner can choose what to load up with . 
 
To ship 1/32 or 1/48 aircraft I use cheap foamboard to make a cage. One large piece for the base , hot melt glue four uprights -for wings, tail and nose, then upholstery foam slices where the edges meet the model so they don't cut into the paint . Finally "clamping" the model down to the board using more foamboard dovetailing the uprights.
 
85% of my models get sold on aBay to locations outside the UK and only 1 has been destroyed , pretty sure by bad unpacking after it arrived. I also send a picture of the model fully caged when ready to ship to the buyer , so it "proves" to them/ eBay etc it wasn't just thrown in a box . Sounds a lot of effort but then I only ship 1/2 a month.
 
Sorry no pix , next time I do one I'll take a few, 
 
 

Im actually in the middle of doing this rn. That method I demonstrated and wrote the review on isn't the cheapest solution, but its re-usable, collapsible and Im 12 for 12 on shipping without major breakage. 
Yes, the bigger they are the harder the fall so-to-speak. I'm going to attempt to sell my B-25. Its 25.5" x 22 x 6.5.  Getting it to anyone shipping wise without major damage will be a serious triumph IMHO. I also have a Spad, and a Do-335 to sell both around the 19" ws mark so getting these sold in good condition will also be a big win if it can be pulled off. 

Here's the video, I searched youtube "how to pack models for shipment, and got a lot of his. Here's the one I mentioned
 
 

Many of the folks who sell their built kits on E-Bay make it very obvious that the buyer should virtually expect the model to arrive with some minor parts broken off. From their point-of-view, I guess they feel it's better to forewarn the buyer than have an argument after the item arrives at its destination. We all known how vulnerable built-kits can be in transit. I've had bits fall off my builds whilst moving them (very gently) ten feet in the house. Maybe I should use a much stronger glue...?
 
Cheers. 
 
Chris.   

Hi Chris, welcome to the saga!  Thanks for looking in and commenting on the build, who doesn't love a B-17 right? Feel free to provide input from your experiences; I've learned a lot during this build, but still far from being an expert........ I hope you enjoy the rest of the journey; it's far from over yet!
 
Craig

Just found this thread, and as @Gazzas, Peter @airscale, and others have said, just amazing.  I've been fortunate to spend a bit of time around some B-17s so am just geeking out over your work.  Fantastic!!
 
Chris

unbelievable stuff Craig!
 
..the bomb bay is just a masterwork, simply incredible detail
 
more than that though, is the skinning, the skill you have developed in getting a working facsimile of raised rivets is something very special It looks so lifelike and opens doors to airframes I had considered but written off as 'impossible' as they had raised rivets (would love to do a Grumman Duck for example). Your work proves nothing is impossible with perseverence, skill and an open mind
 
I am seriously envious of what you will have on the shelf at the end of this!
 
Peter