KUROK

I finished this build today a bit before noon.  It is one of the "Brown Box" WNW kits that they sold near the end of their existence last year.  The aircraft represents the Albatros DVa flown by Hans Böhning, a 17 victory ace assigned to Bavarian Squadron 76b.  I thought the color scheme was eye catching and wanted to try out the wood decals from Proper Plane, so decided to build the aircraft in those colors.  I also used a Proper Plane "Prop and Pipe" set, as well as some Taurus spark plugs, Gas Patch turnbuckles and Spandaus and HGW seatbelt.  The figures are by Model Cellar and were fun to build and paint.  
 
Ernest
 

The first of a few "in progress" photos.  The engine has not been weathered yet.  I scratched the ignition wires and control cables.
 

Close up of the engine, still in factory fresh condition.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Bf 109 Number 12. in this year.
Project 15.
1/32 Revell model, AMUR update set for Erla cowling,
Aires cockpit,
Eduard exhaust,
Barracuda wheels,
Painting mask homemade & Propeller 77,
All colours MRP
 
 





























 

Another Bf 106 finished.
Project 12. 1/32 Hasegawa model, Aires cockpit, exhaust & wheels HGW wet transfers Painting mask Propeller 77 & Homemade All colours MRP  
























 

 
 

Project 13. 1/32 Hasegawa model, Aires cockpit, wheels $ exhaust, Eduard Look. Panting mask homemade & Propeller 77. EagleCals #42. All colours MRP  
 
 














 




 

Let me present the model I built last year. It is the Vulcan built Airco DH.9a - H3633 "30" from 30 Sqn used in Iraq in 1924 to police the Empire. This crate was flown by Sqn Ldr James Rabb.

Modifications to the otherwise excellent kit (as usual for WNW):
- added missing electric, air and fuel installations
- a couple of added switches in the cockpit
- Pheon Models PE spoked wheels
- individual markings airbrushed with custom made masks (thank you, Mr. Decal)
- a few Gaspatch turnbuckles
- two streamers at the red interplane struts
 

evening folks
 
 
 
Thats a great spot Flarpen - the gap isn't as bad as it looks in the dry fit, but on checking it wasn't right - I think it's because I actually made hinges that pin to each other so they were a bit too deep - got rid of the pins and closed the gap - I will just CA it in place when the time comes...
 
..thats what I love about this place, you get a free army of builders with you on your shoulder
 
 
 
 
..now then Geoff - no self loathing here - I have seen what you can do so that would be badly misplaced - really happy to see you back at the bench with the ST-A..
 
..I only did the rivets on the tail surfaces - it was just by imressing into the plasticard skin from the back before skinning the parts - i still need to find a way to do that convincingly on any model...
 
so just  a brief update as while I have been busy I didn't get any in progress shots..
 
firstly, the wings were given rib tapes from decals & primed & painted... also added the fixings for the rigging wires..
 

 

 
..also added these two panels..
 

 
..having decided on a scheme, I have also designed all the masks I need which Radu Brinzan has kindly made & sent to me - in readiness for these I rough painted the white bits of the roundels on the lower wings..
 
..I couldn't find MRP Roundel red & blue anywhere and have ended up buying them from a place in Holland - £30 for both after shipping so a bit of a sting.... once they get here I am ready to paint most of the markings..
 

 
..the other area of focus is the metal panel work at the tail and adding the lower rudder hinges..
 
..the struts that hold the tailplane in place have to be made, but the mounts are done (though they need their canvas boots..
 
..I also made the tailskid which again needs a big canvas boot - the skid bit was made from brass - not sure what the real one was made of or what coulour it should be?
 

 
 

 
..the other side has a smaller panel & the big hole is where the rudder control cables come out of (in a boot..)..
 

 
..and with it's roundel blank I am tempted to put a number in it and call it an air racer....
 
 

 
..I want to get lots of the fiddly bits done and all the painting before the final main assembly which is the upper wings - that will be a model in itself..
 
TTFN
Peter
 
 
 

I was lucky enough to get this kit as a already started kit for $10 usd.
This will be gifted to a great friend who brought me back into the hobby.
I am so glad I have Chucks recent build to use as a reference. I am going to try my first metal finish so wish me luck. 
I will build her wheels up to look like the rocket she is. Will use a pilot from a Tamiya kit.
 

This is the box but does not have the Decals so i will be using aftermarket. 
 

This is what I managed to build from the huge box almost 2 years ago. Gotha G.I 42/15 Feodora. Not an easy build at all, especially when one faces the unusual for WNW faults in manufacture - misaligned mould halves leading to some severe sanding work - all the bits required a lot of treatment. Especially thin lines/cables/pipes... Anyway, still, when the parts are cleaned what remains is a set of quite finely fitting elements - quite a bonus when one takes into account the unorthodox form of this aircraft.
All in all, I am very happy to have this weird bird in my cabinet.
 

That looks really good.  I might have to have a crack at one of these, and pray they release more LSP's to this standard.  Of course, it seems quite typical that a good P-40B should be released so soon after I finished the awful Trumpy kit .
 
 
Cheers,
Michael

engine test shot as posted on britmodeller
https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235044199-132-curtiss-p-40b-tomahawk-by-great-wall-hobby-gwh-design-model3d-renders-release-in-2021/
 

 

 

Incidentally, you may notice there's no paint-created effect of lighter ribs under the wings: that comes after the black stripes.

Well I'm back after a longer-than-intended break to let the oils dry; I picked up a Revell 109 in the meantime and I have the cockpit painted and fuselage assembled.  No excuse other than I - oh look, a butterfly - get distracted sometimes.
 
Anyway, with a coat of Tamiya X22 on the wood, I decided to get the wings painted.  The scheme is white on top and CDL underneath, all with black chordwise stripes.  First off I sprayed the CDL using my trusted Mr Hobby "Radome" (H318).  You might think uppersurfaces next, but no.  I've decided to use home-made masks for the wing roundels.
 
Remember sitting in geometry classes in school, learning how to construct all sorts of shapes and find the centre of a circle using nothing but ruler and compasses?  And I'll bet you thought you'd never use it outside said geometry classes?  Well, I for one was wrong: I photocopied the decal sheet and used the copy and the aforesaid method to find the centre of the roundel, measure the circles, and cut them into Artool Ultramask with my Olfa Compass Cutter.
 
I masked up for the white, and that included adding the roundel masks on the underside of the lower wing. I also noticed from the photos included in the kit that the white returns onto the underside, as does the PC10/12 on standard RFC schemes; so incorprated that too, then sprayed a mix of matt and gloss white above the wings, on the lower roundel area, and on the fin and rudder.
 

 
When that was dry, I applied the rest of the roundel masks except the centre.  I measured the rudder width at 0.63 inches, so rather conveniently that's 0.21 inches per stripe.  A simple strip of Tamiya tape sufficed, then it was out with the red paint.
 

 

 
Next up blue; hopefully soon, thanks for your patience.
 

Finally got to the point of laying down some paint on this thing....knowing that the wing root area of aircraft models can be a problem with the way the paint swirls around in that area,  and you can get a dusty rough section with the paint drying at different times on the different angles, I didnt want to have that problem with the Alclad on this one, ......the last thing I want to be doing is sanding the wing root area over and over if this problem happens here, so I took the same approach that Alex did on his Mitsubishi Claude build in his "In The Navy" Group Build project, and mask of smaller areas so as you're not getting dry paint hitting other areas when you are spraying one area, only I have concentrated it to a lot smaller area at the start of mine compared to Alex's.
 
I am applying Alclad Aluminium over Tamiya Grey Primer which I have sanded with Micro Mesh pads right up to 12,000 grit to get a very smooth finish for the Alclad.
 
I am not worrying about a gloss black coat on this because I dont want it too shiny, I want a sort of dull metallic look that I think a wartime aircraft would probably have out in the field, and the Alclad Aluminium is going down shiny enough on the polished grey primer anyway.




 


I will now give the section on the main wings a light gloss coat of Tamiya X-22 mixed with Levelling Thinner to try and prevent any Alclad lifting when I mask it to paint the adjoining sections.
 
This way is a bit more time consuming, but I will do anything to try and avoid repairs on this build, being my first NMF.
 
Thats it for now,
Cheer's,
Jeff.

My go to paint has always been Tamiya acrylics which I have used on this one as usual. I always thin the paint quite heavily and most importantly add X-22 clear at a ratio of 1 to 1 to the paint prior to adding thinner. Always works well for me and get a nice smooth finish. Prior to adding decals I then spray Tamiya X-22 clear again quite heavily thinned which leaves a perfect gloss to add decals to and then go on and weather.
 
Regards. Andy 

Here is one shot with my DSLR.  The moon dust is actually "Mt. St. Helen's ash" that I got as an interesting door prize.  Dem Brudders gave a Space: 1999 building seminar at the 2019 IPMS Nationals.  I won a small jar of ash that they said was ideal for photography of Space 1999 subjects.  You be the judge:
 

Thanks!  We all know that alclad hides nothing...especially scratches.  So, essentially, I took advantage of that fact!

Here is one shot with my DSLR.  The moon dust is actually "Mt. St. Helen's ash" that I got as an interesting door prize.  Dem Brudders gave a Space: 1999 building seminar at the 2019 IPMS Nationals.  I won a small jar of ash that they said was ideal for photography of Space 1999 subjects.  You be the judge:
 

Great and smooth paint.  What brand are you using?

Here is one shot with my DSLR.  The moon dust is actually "Mt. St. Helen's ash" that I got as an interesting door prize.  Dem Brudders gave a Space: 1999 building seminar at the 2019 IPMS Nationals.  I won a small jar of ash that they said was ideal for photography of Space 1999 subjects.  You be the judge:
 

Thank you, everyone.
Yes, the engine enhancment bits are from Taurus. Great stuff, very highly recommended.
 Yesterday night I also managed to build the engine into the truss, which had to be detached from the left side fuse half to allow adding some weathering, a couple of fuel connections and the throttle linkage. Then the last glimpse and the fuse was closed. I suppose I will leave the engine covers off so that one can catch a glimpse of these engine details. Now for some minor treatment of seams.








 

A little more done and decided to paint the flaps as they where up when the FAA scheme went on so painted the intermediate blue details on
 

 

 
And decals on
 

 

 

 

 
Need to get the engine completed and closed up up next, decals performed superbly with micro set/ sol so very happy.
 
Regards. Andy 

Here is one shot with my DSLR.  The moon dust is actually "Mt. St. Helen's ash" that I got as an interesting door prize.  Dem Brudders gave a Space: 1999 building seminar at the 2019 IPMS Nationals.  I won a small jar of ash that they said was ideal for photography of Space 1999 subjects.  You be the judge:
 

Hello all,
One of these days you WILL see a LSP project from me!  Not today...
In the meantime, here is a project I actually got finished.
It's the new tool Eagle kit from a somewhat crappy 1970s sci fi TV show.
The plot lines in those shows were silly...but the special effects were totally cool and I loved the "Eagle".
This new kit is a far cry from the old Fundimensions/MPC kit we had.  This one is accurate in shape and has modern standards of fit.
I needed an "off white" paint to match the studio model and I found a craft paint called "bisque" that fit the bill.
I watched several youtube videos and experimented a lot in order to learn how to airbrush craft acrylics.  It was a learning curve but I enjoyed it.
The tail cones are sprayed with alclad polished aluminum.  To get a brushed metal look, I first primed them with gloss Tamiya black.
Once hardened, I chucked into a drill and spun while holding steel wool against it.  This give the gloss black a texture that yielded the brushed metal appearance I wanted once alclad was sprayed.  Plus I saved a little money by not buying the metal engine bell set!
I did employ the window frames from a Paragrafix photoetch set.  These look great and fit well.
For clear coats I did some of it with Future but I still struggle with getting a consistent airbrush coat that is not "pebbly".
So I fell back to an old reliable standard...MicroScale gloss and flat.  I had some thirty year old bottles that still worked fine.
Here's a couple iPhone photos...