Bill_S

This one never really appealed to me, but I bought one anyway.

I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to WNW kits, but I use EZ Line almost exclusively. Feeding the line back through a tube takes some practice, but it hasn't been too bad for me. I use a pair of good tweezers, and magnification is a must! This is the bell crank to control wing warping on the Fokker Eindecker. If you'll allow me to make some recommendations... the tube comes in various lengths; the smallest ones (1 mm long) are the ones I use for the crimps on the end of the rigging material. I use 2 or 2.5 mm for turnbuckles. Per a suggestion here, I put a white towel across my lap when working with these tiny parts - of my original 20 1mm tubes, the carpet monster claimed six. Now, I do the work on a white wash cloth; the loss rate has decreased significantly. The wash cloth prevents the parts from bouncing off the bench.

An honest, fair review. Well done, Mike!

Fokker E.III bell crank for wing warping control...

Page 23 of this WNW Albatros instruction booklet gives a good view of the bungee. http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3111&cat=4 Personally, I would give it a light gray (rubber) color. If you're going to add the detail, a little contrast with the rest of the gear will show it off.

The white towel is a GREAT idea - especially since I'm dealing with Bob's Buckles parts right now!

I find myself using this often these days...

I thought it was 1mm, not 2. http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1423141823/hasegawa+1-32+thunderbolt+engine+mount

It would depend considerably upon the direction you chose. During that 36 hour flight time, the Earth would have rotated 1-1/2 times under you!

These days, I find myself using a single edge razor blade for part removal. In the case of fragile or brittle (clear) parts, I second Brian's recommendation of the heated #11 blade.

It will probably be "other", but I'd jump on a WNW Dr.1 in a flash!

I'm very appreciative, Kevin! Thanks for organizing this once again!

One thing to consider: the B-25 requires quite a bit of weight in the nose. Hiding that weight could prove to be a real challenge with the clear fuselage. Another reason to go for the Mossie!

Yes, they do -

I use Model Master right out of the rattle can. Great stuff IMHO.

Simply amazing work, Kent!

Well done, Jerry!

How about by manufacturer? A Hasegawa GB would open many possibilities, for example. Revell might be too much like Jurassic Plastic...

You could try a flat piece of acetal (Delrin). It's cheaper and harder than Teflon, and not much sticks to it, either.

I use micro brushes... they're cheap if you don't buy them at a hobby store. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100Pcs-Disposable-Swab-Applicator-Micro-Brush-Eyelashes-Extension-Mascara-Tools/162505058266?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D3bae61aaf6e14629aece1df12ffb0094%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226

Wear a hat!

A great book!

Transition in place... Cockpit painted, the fuselage is now closed up...

A good, fair review. IMHO, it's a great kit!

It's been nearly a month since I updated... Next up is the transition from the intake "tunnel" to the face of the engine. I measured the drop angle at 15 degrees. To make the transition, I need a tube of the proper diameter (1.35 inches - 34.04mm) cut at 15 degrees. The tube is easy enough to make, but the material is so thin that it distorts when trying to cut the angle. I searched online and found some interesting sheet metal layout tutorials that provided a methodology to cut the transition. Who ever said you'll never need sines and cosines? I developed a spreadsheet and finally came up with this template. Transferred to paper card stock as a test... I rolled it up, and it worked! Now to put it in styrene. And set in place on the engine intake... That's it for now. Some paint on the cockpit, and I'll be ready to close up the fuselage!. A major hurdle out of the way. Thanks for looking in.