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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello everyone!

Having finished the engine I brought up all the sub-assemblies together to complete the overall airframe.

Fit has been generally pretty good with the exception of the misaligned engine cowling.

I eventually decided the glue the whole thing to the main fuselage directly thus eliminating the step.

We're now on the final stretch of the build and the model is getting prepped for painting.

 

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I had initially planed to depict Glenn Eagleston's winged skull and bones aircraft but after some further search I came across and fell in love with Neil Stanley's Daddy Rabbit with its cheeky artwork. 

So I promptly ordered EagleCal's decal set and getting ready to put on some paint! :frantic:

 

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1 hour ago, Collin said:

What's your technique for your seam work?  Your fuselage seam is practically gone.  

 

Beautiful work....everyone loves a big Jug!!

 

Cheers

Collin

 

Thank you Collin!

Regarding the sims, I first apply a small amount of liquid cement on both surfaces that will be joined together.

I then bring the surfaces together and apply more cement across the join.

After a minute or so, I squeeze the parts together till the molten plastic oozes across the length of the join.

Once it's dry I sand till smooth.

If the fit is good, that's all you need.

If more work is required (either more gaps or the dreaded ghost seam) I then switch to a mixture of talcum powder and superglue. 

It should only take a couple of minutes to cure after which I sand smooth.

That usually fully takes care of the join.

Hope that helps! ^_^

 

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1 hour ago, spyrosjzmichos said:

 

Thank you Collin!

Regarding the sims, I first apply a small amount of liquid cement on both surfaces that will be joined together.

I then bring the surfaces together and apply more cement across the join.

After a minute or so, I squeeze the parts together till the molten plastic oozes across the length of the join.

Once it's dry I sand till smooth.

If the fit is good, that's all you need.

If more work is required (either more gaps or the dreaded ghost seam) I then switch to a mixture of talcum powder and superglue. 

It should only take a couple of minutes to cure after which I sand smooth.

That usually fully takes care of the join.

Hope that helps! ^_^

 

I follow a similar process...but weeks/months later...ghost seams.  I am slowing incorporating CA...but worried about long term integrity of a major joint coming undone.

 

What's your preferred glue?

 

Thanks for the response.

Cheers

Collin

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3 minutes ago, Collin said:

I follow a similar process...but weeks/months later...ghost seams.  I am slowing incorporating CA...but worried about long term integrity of a major joint coming undone.

 

What's your preferred glue?

 

Thanks for the response.

Cheers

Collin

 

Indeed, the CA glue/talcum powder mix can be brittle and the join can come apart if you apply too much pressure during or after sanding.

That's usually more of a problem on highly curved surfaces such as the kit's engine cowling (which was a real PITA due to the four part assembly).

But I have found that by applying liquid cement first usually makes the join flexible enough to withstand moderate pressure should you apply the CA glue mixture on top. 

You could consider the sprue goo method but I've never used it so can't comment much on it.

Unfortunately, ghost seams are annoying but have seen that even top modelers have to deal with these occasionally. :shrug:

 

Ah, yes.

Forgot to mention my preferred glue is Tamiya extra thin cement.

I have also used Mr Hobby's limonene cement, too, which works just as fine.

But for reasons I'm unable to explain, I tend to prefer the Tamiya one. 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello everyone!

I managed to make some progress with painting.

One thing I should mention is that this is my first ever attempt at a natural metal scheme.

I always shied away from doing such schemes as I was generally intimidated by the associated challenges and difficulties.

But I eventually decided it was time I bit the bullet and try my hand at an "unpainted" aircraft.

One thing I always struggled with is figuring out a way to depict the patina that forms on used metal surfaces as evident on numerous period photos of P-47s and P-51s.

I eventually came across an old video of doogsmodels that suggested a variation of the popular black basing technique.

This involved priming the plastic surface with a metal colour, then applied irregular patches of dark grey and finally unifying the whole scheme with an overcoat of a different metallic colour. I found the technique quite interesting and so decided to try it out.

After polishing and cleaning the whole model I first painted it with MRP Silver.

Then using an Uschi van der Rosten splatter stencil I covered the silver with splotches of MRP dark gull grey.

 

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Next step was to apply several light layers of MRP white aluminium.

I made sure to cover the dark gull grey pattern enough to show through the top layer from different angles.

I have edited the pictures to make the effect look more dramatic as it was the only way it would appear clearly.

But in reality it's much more subtle. 

 

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And a few detail shots of the effect.

 

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Next step is to do some panel variation with dark aluminium and then apply the olive drab anti glare panel.

Thanks for checking! :lol:

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