Recommendations for Mask Cutting Machines

[Citadelgrad]

I much prefer the look of painted markings instead of decals, I can't get the decals to act like paint.

 

I have bothered an individual member here with private messages, but thought a wider net might be in order. 

 

I have used masks and stencils in my armor modeling, and have some masks lined up for the P47 i am working on, but see that many have vinyl cutters that they use for making their own masks.

 

This would strictly be for own own use, I have no time or patience for a side hustle, so if volume capability is a concern, I don't need that.  

 

I have done a lot of reading, but unfortunately, most of the consumer information is general in nature, craft focused, understandably.  I have searched here, but, no offense, the search feature does not seem to catch much.

 

I have done some reading here

https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/

but the traffic is pretty light, and many of the threads about versions of hardware are pretty old.    

 

I am leaning toward a silhouette cameo?  I am not sure what the difference is between the generations, versions, and subversions.  I might play with vinyl stickers for friends and toolboxes, but the purpose of the purchase is to make high quality marking masks for 1/32 aircraft. 

 

I don't need the latest/greatest, unless, that is, it's better for these purposes.  I just don't have enough information from people who use them to do what i want to do to make an informed decision.  

 

Personally, I am decently computer savvy, I set up my own home network, printers, etc.  I use computers every day, but for word processing.  I don't yet know any CAD or similar, but am willing to learn if it's needed.  I would like to get something that will do what I need for the foreseeable future.  

 

I note that many bundles have all kinds of craft stuff in them, is there a basic bundle I should look for, like blades and a cutting mat?  Prices all over seem almost Apple level controlled, so that is simplified.  

 

EDIT:  I really am a newbie in this area.  I just realized there are several different sizes of cameo.  My focus is 1/32 aircraft, but even the smallest cameo seems larger than any decal sheet dimensions I have seen, but I am open to comment on any and all of this.

 

Thanks

[LSP_Kevin]

Silhouette makes several different models of cutting machine, of which Cameo is only one. The latest version is 4, though I'm hearing a few complaints about it, and some are saying it's not as good as the 3. Personally, I use their Portrait model, which is significantly more compact than the Cameo, and the main reason for my choosing it. The cutting mat that comes with it will handle A4-sized sheets with ease.

 

Yes, traffic over at Scale Model Paint Masks is disappointingly light, and I have no idea how to fix that. For ages, everyone was clamouring for a centralised library to house freely-downloadable mask cutting files, but now that it exists, it seems no one is especially interested. This is the way, I guess.

 

Kev

[Citadelgrad]

34 minutes ago, LSP_Kevin said:

Silhouette makes several different models of cutting machine, of which Cameo is only one. The latest version is 4, though I'm hearing a few complaints about it, and some are saying it's not as good as the 3. Personally, I use their Portrait model, which is significantly more compact than the Cameo, and the main reason for my choosing it. The cutting mat that comes with it will handle A4-sized sheets with ease.

 

Yes, traffic over at Scale Model Paint Masks is disappointingly light, and I have no idea how to fix that. For ages, everyone was clamouring for a centralised library to house freely-downloadable mask cutting files, but now that it exists, it seems no one is especially interested. This is the way, I guess.

 

Kev

Well, I for one do appreciate the idea of a place to exchange ideas and files.  I know that took a lot of work.  

 

Are you satisfied with the portrait line for your uses?  There is a ton of information available that compares the lines, but nothing using any criteria that apply to decal making, at least as far as I can find.

Thank you. 

[MDuv]

For having used both 3 and 4 cameo models (The 3 to its dead not long ago) I find both equivalent in term of precision once you have the right setting. one thing that bothered me at the first cut with the 4 was the creepy noise coming out of it, as my 3 had a very smooth accoustic signature. It find now the noise of -4 less disturbing, maybe everything settled in the mechanic (or I am just used to it..).

You cant use the -3 autoblade on -4 and there is no adapter. so you have to buy the right spare blades at the start.
Cameo doesnt sell the -3 anymore, and it seemed to be OOS everywhere when I wanted to replace the dead -3 with another. So if you buy it new, you'll have to go with the -4.

 

There are new interesting features on the -4 like the Pix Scan. There is an optical scanner that spot reference marks on the pixscan mat (sold separatly..) and allow to cut border around an existing image. Might be interesting to cut the border film on decals.

For the rest, the best is to come out and play. Learning the software is easy and fast. And there is a lot of fun and satisfaction as reward.

For a conclusion: a few things I wish I was told when a began with this. That's not compulsory of course, there are always exceptions.

1. Always use a transfer tape when you apply your mask, even for the simple designs.

2. When you design, use as much as physical references points or line as you can. Use panel lines to place the border of a mask. it will be of great help when putting it on a model.

3. Dont use, or refrain to use when possible, the auto vectorize function of a scan or an image. Better spend time building your geometric figures with straight lines and precise curves. the vectorise function works well at first sight, but induce sloppy cuts, and larger files to work on as they build a lot of undesired curves.

Edited May 7, 2021 by MDuv

[Citadelgrad]

Thanks for the info and tips.  I appreciate it. 

[denders]

I have a regular size Cameo 4, 12" width. Personally, I don't see the need for anything wider for masks for painting markings, etc. I haven't done much yet (1/32 T-2 canopy masks, 1/48 A-20 canopy masks and some lettering, 1/28 Camel markings), but I've not had any problems either. I cut everything using the mat. Max's suggestions on depth, force, and speed for Oracal 810 have worked just fine. I've also experimented with Oracal 813 and Artool Ultra Mask with those same settings and it has cut just fine. I've been cutting with the Cameo 4 Autoblade that came with it.

 

The biggest problem to me is that drawing cut lines with straight and curved lines requires zooming in really close and making sure the ends are really close together or slightly overlap. The software doesn't have a way to weld the endpoints together.

 

 tried setting up the bluetooth connection and after finally getting it to work, found it too fiddly on repeat connections, so I just use the USB cable with an extension all the time. It works really well with the USB connection. While I was trading emails with a tech about the bluetooth, I did make a suggestion about being able to weld endpoints.

 

HTH

Dave

 

[MDuv]

9 hours ago, denders said:

The biggest problem to me is that drawing cut lines with straight and curved lines requires zooming in really close and making sure the ends are really close together or slightly overlap. The software doesn't have a way to weld the endpoints together.

 

Hi Dave, 
Actually there is a way to merge different lines (even not touching) into an object.
In my french software version it's called "créer tracé composite" so i guess it must be something like creat composite trace ?

 

An examples with 4 independant lines:

 

Select the lines you  want to become part of the form :

 

Right click and "créer tracé composite"

 

It's now seen as a form even if some lines doesnt link.

 

You can then modify your object with the point edit tab. This is the biggest difference between grouping lines and composite.

 

 

All the end points can be joined if desired.

 

Cheers.

Mathieu

Edited May 10, 2021 by MDuv

[denders]

Mathieu,

 

Thank you! Works great!

 

In the english version, the right click is "Make Compound Path".

[Woody V]

I have a Cameo 3 which works just fine for everything I've done from cutting masks to .007 styrene. There are guys here who use the -2 and their work speaks for itself. As for creating the artwork, if you can do it outside the Silhouette software it can be imported. I use an ancient version of Adobe Illustrator and import .dxf files so I get exactly what I need.

[Citadelgrad]

Update.  Silhouette Portrait is $20 off at Michaels, free delivery.  I jumped on one.    

 

Now to learn what the heck I am doing....story of my life.  

[Thunnus]

Great choice Bill!  I love my Portrait and can't imagine needing the wider cutting bed that differentiates the Cameo from the Portrait.

[D.B. Andrus]

Just took the plunge on a Silhouette 3. Fingers crossed.

 

Cheers,

Damian

[bushande]

Hello gents,

after having nagged member "turboprop" last year about some paint masks I figured I might as well go the whole mile and get a mask cutter myself. Basically I am standing now before the same dilemma as the original poster and I suppose all of you once did - i.e. which one to buy.

I'm doing mainly modern US Navy and USAF stuff at the moment and what I am looking or rather hoping for is finding a cutter that might be able to do halfway decent serial numbers. Can you guys maybe give some insight into what might be the smallest possible letter size for the cutters you own? - Just to get an impression of what's possible.

For instance: In 1/32 modern USN serials have figures the size of roughly 3mm in hight, so about 0.04'' or so. Names on canopies are even smaller. Any chance there is a cutter than can manage that small size?

Thanks a ton in advance for any good advice.

Edited June 17, 2021 by bushande

[Woody V]

21 hours ago, bushande said:

For instance: In 1/32 modern USN serials have figures the size of roughly 3mm in hight, so about 0.04'' or so. Names on canopies are even smaller. Any chance there is a cutter than can manage that small size?

 

I wouldn't get my hopes up, cutting a stencil is only the beginning. You still have to use transfer tape to hold everything together so you can get it on the model and then you have to get the transfer tape off and weed microscopic bits out where the paint goes. Even with simple masks, some folks make sound a lot easier than it is.

 

IMNSHO, with the hundreds of decals and HGW wet transfers on the market, why bother? 

Edited June 18, 2021 by Archer Fine Transfers

[Thomas Lund]

If you are on facebook, then I suggest joining up in this group. Very active

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheCuttingEdgeModelersGroup

 

I have a Silhouette Portrait, but I must admit that I have not been keeping up with hardware since I bought it quite some years ago.

 

As for drawing, I use CAD software almost exclusively as most masks - mine at least - are very geometrical. CAD does take a little practice but I find it very good to do masks with exactly the size I want. You can find free CAD online - such as DraftSight. Export in dxf and it can be opened directly in the Silhouette software (sometimes you need to scale it)

 

Except for very small lettering (stencils etc) I do all on the Portrait.

Edited June 18, 2021 by Thomas Lund