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1/32 FW-190C V18 (Revell & Planet Models conversion)


Grunticus
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Ever since I first laid eyes on this airplane I liked it a lot. So brute..

 

This conversion will be executed using a Revell FW-190 F-8 instead of a Hasegawa A8. After studying sprue shots it looked feasible. I am awaitig stuff for my Ki-86, so why not get going at it. I have buit one PLanet Models kit before (1/48 CAC Wackett) and it was pretty good. It was also my first resin kit.

 

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The symmetry of the PM fuselage looks good.

 

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But will the wing fit? A quick dry-fit looks promising, or at least doable on all defining joints.

 

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Obviously some surgery is required. This is a major undertaking for my skills. All part arrived without damage.

 

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Overall moulding quality is superb. Some parts:

 

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And a pair of the real thing:

 

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Wish me luck B)

Edited by Grunticus
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I have been cleaning up parts with constant dry-fitting, and some cutting into the Revell upper wings. The Revell parts are not the best I’ve seen and have gotten used to from their more recent kits, and they too need a lot of cleanup. The gun barrels show mis-aligned moulds  and this cannot be remedied with sanding (on my example). Good thing the 190C V18 hase none installed in the wings.

 

So far I’m still not shy of going through with this. It appears the wing fit only needs some work at the trailing edge root joint, but doable even for me and my skill set. I just need to figure out how to flush-fit the cockpit up to the resin, and with that I mainly mean the rear decking. It will require a lot of careful sanding to make it work, but a workable base is there. I saw The Hasegawa kit fetches € 100+ on eBay, so I’m glad I’m hacking away at a € 30 Revell kit.

 

Detailed images of dry fitting will follow within the next few days. Oh, I will also use an Eduard set for the cockpit, well some of it anyway.

 

Q: Does anyone know if this FW 190C V18 had provisions to carry underwing fuel tanks? I can’t find proof or even a hint. If so I need to drill holes now.

Edited by Grunticus
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No, they had no provisions for external fuel at that phase of their development.....so no worries there....and being that the late 190’s mostly carried their fuel tanks on their centerline, this could not have because of the belly scoop. I also think this airplane was originally converted from an A-5, which did not have the ability to carry the underwing pair of tanks purportedly seen on some of the later types....(F/G?)

 

THOR    :ph34r:

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2 hours ago, bdthoresen said:

No, they had no provisions for external fuel at that phase of their development.....so no worries there....and being that the late 190’s mostly carried their fuel tanks on their centerline, this could not have because of the belly scoop. I also think this airplane was originally converted from an A-5, which did not have the ability to carry the underwing pair of tanks purportedly seen on some of the later types....(F/G?)

 

THOR    :ph34r:

 

THOR, thanks so much. One less thing to worry about. On one hand they would make The Thing more interesting, on the other hand distract from it’s sleek yet brutal appearance. But let’s not get ahead of myself here :coolio: 

 

Big job for me here but I will do something unusual for me: take my time.

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Eduard’s set consists of a cockpit fret and exterior fret. The cockpit set shows that in the newer sets the dials receive a drop of clear to make them shine.

 

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The other fret is limited, but has a nice decking for the aft area below the canopy and other nice looking plating. I shall be using that, but for the instrument panel I will use kit parts and included dial decals which are nice. I do not like the color and graininess of the Eduard IPs.

 

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I made a start. With Dremel and these I created a straight edge into the originally rounded resin edge in the side-wall for the Revell aft decking to grip to, taking care not to damage the edge by resting the axle of the grinding bit on the sidewall edge while grinding, making it easier to go straight and steady. I repeated the process for that other half, and the result does not disappoint. The aft decking sits even and strong between the halves.

 

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From below it looks like this. Ample room for the cockpit tub. I think I will open up the area to the right of the opening so my fingers can reach the upper deck. That way I can more easily secure it with superglue or two component resin glue. Maybe there’s even enough room left to incorporate the (thinned down) sidewalls moulded into the fuselage halves of the Revell kit, there is some nice detail on them... Oh boy what have I started....

 

The front lip of the tub should come to rest on a bulkhead that is glued to the wing and has a ledge to receive the front lip of the tub. It all comes down to alignment and adjustment. We’ll see.....

 

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Quiz time: how many clamps does it take to hold one wheel bay in position while glueing it to the wing?

 

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Thx for looking.

 

 

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After more careful cleaning up, cutting, filing, etc I thought I’d make a start with the cockpit tub. I added a hose and a wire to the control stick, and stuck a few bits of the Eduard set on. Next is RLM66. The rear plate Is not yet glued.

 

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I will add the Eduard rear deck cover after I assembled the fuselage, it will hide seams. I will also replace the resin IP coaming with the kit one as it’s more defined. Seems doable.

 

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The fit of thing gets a bit better every day B) I will not add the kit sidewalls after all, to much work. There are however parts in the Eduard set that I will use, and add a few details myself. Big problem will be the underside where wing meets cowling. Bad fit here. I mean cigarette lighter-heating-and-bending bad fit...

 

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5 hours ago, mywifehatesmodels said:

Not sure how I missed this thread before, but great work, so far! 

 

I always wanted to try this conversion, but never got ahold of one. You are brave for using the Revell kit, but it looks like you have it under control.:thumbsup:

 

Keep up the great work!

 

John

 

Thanks John. I’m still not sure if I am up to the task and if I haven’t taken a bite I can’t chew. But...I’ll try, and take it slow. It’s a side project. In hindsight taking this on AND using a different kit than what it was meant for was not the smartest move I made. I still think it can de done but lots of extra work I could have saved myself from. The Hasegawas A5s/A8s are very expensive though these days.

 

2 hours ago, airscale said:

very nicely done :)

 

I was part way through a 1/18 version so if you PM me your email address I can send you all the pics I collected for reference

 

its a fascinating aircraft and seeing this makes me think it's one I should go back to :)

 

Peter

 

Thanks Peter, I will! The FW 190C V18 is a really fascinating aircraft, you should finish it!

 

2 hours ago, BlackCanopy said:

Oh yes pleeeeease! You gotta make one from the dark side, at some point!

 

1/48 was my main scale before 1/32, 1/18 will be next :D. Sometimes I still have an eye for the great variety of new 1/48 kits emerging. But, 1/32-era can’t complain either lately!

Edited by Grunticus
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The Revell windscreen is shaped differently from the Hasegawa one. I will first have to restore and prep the parts to mate the Revell windscreen and IP coaming to the Planet Models fuselage.

 

The plan is to glue the coaming inside the windscreen. I have sanded and reshaped the coaming and get an acceptable fit. The side-frames of the windscreen will hide this after painting. I think it's the only way forward with this part. That will however leave a small gap between te coaming and the forward edge of the fuselage, but again, this will be mostly hidden by the painted windscreen bottom frame. I think the key importance is to get the coaming lower than the cowling-top visually, as this photo illustrates.

 

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Below you can see the stock I glued into place to recreate a straight edge for the windscreen. Out with the putty and sandpaper...

 

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Ps: does anyone know if the canopy was the same as the standard one, with just framing added? The vacuform canopies provided suggest so but I'm not sure. If they are the same I could use the kit-canopy and add the frames.

Edited by Grunticus
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