Scotsman Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 To be honest the iridescent film would look a lot more realistic , I seem to remember Dave Roof aka Leathnecks used to have a film product for HUD / CRT screens , its basically confetti pieces, and that might be a way forward , Or break out the PVA!!! ColinR BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Williams Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 AFV Club makes a sheet of the material. https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Detailing_and_Weathering/pc-panel-for-simulating-modern-hud/AFV0AC35201/product.php?pr=1 BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I had to look the disco ball up, because the last time I built an Apache, it didn't have one! Another idea might be to fill it with photoreactive resin, like the stuff I use in my 3D printer. It comes in clear red, and is liquid, and cures quickly in sunlight, or in a 405nm UV light. It just wouldn't be iridescent. That thing looks like a real bear to make!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stokey Pete Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 This one may be moving to the 'Shelf of Doom' very shortly. I couldn't salvage the canopy piece, to the tune that I actually made the break worse, and added a couple of stress cracks through other sections of the glass parts. I've contacted Revell in the very, very, VERY slim hope that they'll have spares for something this old. Failing that, I've put calls out to local modelling clubs, again in the slim hope that someone may be thinking about junking their kit and would donate the clear. For now, I'll be finishing the disco light, and the resin hellfires, before boxing up and hiding it away for a bit. BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrotten Highlander Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 (edited) just a tought, but can you not use this part to make a mold for vacuum forming? Alternatively, can this be measured to create a 3D model that can be printed in clear plastics? Edited January 18, 2020 by Landrotten Highlander BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stokey Pete Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 2 minutes ago, Landrotten Highlander said: just a tought, but can you not use this part to make a mold for vacuum forming? Alternatively, can this be measured to create a 3D model that can be printed in clear plastics? I imagine both options would be possible. Unfortunately, I have none of the equipment necessary to achieve either solution, and guess that getting someone to do it would entail costs that I can't budget for at this moment, and not for a kit that I won for a £10/$18 eBay auction. Good ideas all the same though, if I ever get into 3D printing, I'll have a crack at it if I haven't sourced a replacement. BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buster99 Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I searched long for iridescent film and finally managed to get quite a substantial amount in varying colors by ordering it through 'Wish' It was quite cheap compared to other suppliers and works great. Hth, Marc BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 On 1/17/2020 at 12:22 PM, Stokey Pete said: A spare 3 hours worth of cutting, filing, cursing, and bonded fingertips. I dug into the flight path box to build the 'disco light'. I need to find a suitable material to fill in the gaps, but that ain't gonna happen today. My eyes have crossed over, and I'm a babbling wreck. Micro Krystal Clear can be dabbed in each hole with a toothpick and “windowed” to create individual panes. Hard to explain, but surface tension will pull it across, like a soap bubble, and it will dry clear. BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotsman Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 Quote Micro Krystal Clear can be dabbed in each hole with a toothpick and “windowed” to create individual panes. Hard to explain, but surface tension will pull it across, like a soap bubble, and it will dry clear. The posh version of my approach! - Krystal Clear has an amazing ability to bridge gaps, I used it on the Camera ports on my Searire 47 and it worked a treat I/ sorry about the problems your having with the canopy , but one thing that occurs is that they've essentially flat panels,so could the framework of the original canopy be used and then glaze it with thin clear sheet - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 On 1/18/2020 at 9:59 PM, Stokey Pete said: This one may be moving to the 'Shelf of Doom' very shortly. I couldn't salvage the canopy piece, to the tune that I actually made the break worse, and added a couple of stress cracks through other sections of the glass parts. One of the things about an Apache is, most of the glass appears to be flat. That suggests to me, you may well be able to rescue this part by going at it laterally The nasty cracks are either in the glass or along the frame. Cut out the broken glass bits, glue the frame back together and stick in flat, clear stuff to replace the glass (PVA is good for this) The main problem I can see is you'll end up doing this for all the glass - even the 'good' bits! Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stokey Pete Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 19 hours ago, RLWP said: One of the things about an Apache is, most of the glass appears to be flat. That suggests to me, you may well be able to rescue this part by going at it laterally The nasty cracks are either in the glass or along the frame. Cut out the broken glass bits, glue the frame back together and stick in flat, clear stuff to replace the glass (PVA is good for this) The main problem I can see is you'll end up doing this for all the glass - even the 'good' bits! Richard Tbh, I'm not all that confident in cutting it into pieces. I'll do it as a very last resort, if I can't source a replacement. I have 5 other kits to get through before I'd have to make a final decision on what to do with it, so I've plenty of time to ressurect it in the future. I'll hit something else while tinkering on and off with a few bits for the Apache in between. It'll keep the wife happy insofar as she'll think the stash is getting smaller if I open another box up. chrish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 You may find some parts at a show as well. I see people selling built ups all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stokey Pete Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 2 hours ago, LSP_Mike said: You may find some parts at a show as well. I see people selling built ups all the time. That's another of my plans for the year ahead, to attend more shows, hunt out the bargain. I heard back from Revell today, stating that their supply of spares has been exhausted quite some time ago. I hadn't held out much more than a slim hope for them but it was nice of them to get back to me with a definitive answer. For now, I'll stick with the idea of doing the odd sub build for it occasionally. While at the same time, thinning the stash (I've already got a Revell Mustang on the bench now). I suppose I've got nothing to lose by having a go at hacking the original part up and replacing the glass panels with acetate or thin Perspex. I'm reluctant to put too much time into the Apache, I'd hate to devote 100's of hours to it, only for it to never be truly completed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knightofthesky Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Hi! Perhaps I can help...I looked in my spare part box and found the complete clear-part sprue. The parts must be there for over 20 years Best Dietmar Lothar, BiggTim and Subodai 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stokey Pete Posted January 25, 2020 Author Share Posted January 25, 2020 2 hours ago, Knightofthesky said: Hi! Perhaps I can help...I looked in my spare part box and found the complete clear-part sprue. The parts must be there for over 20 years Best Dietmar OMG, you're a legend. That would be awesome in that case. I shall PM you. BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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