RLWP Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 0.3mm comes out at 3/8", which is a bit big for me Try painting the thread after installing it, I paint mine a steel colour. They show up more and look bigger. My DeHavilland wires will have a more silver colour (because the full size ones are), I'm interested to see how they look when done Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 I finished rigging my Glad yesterday and went to a friend’s place to show it. I left it there Instead of bringing it home because the Dennis storm was raging I’ll take it back this afternoon. We’ll see how the rigging look on the pics. Q mozart, Lothar and RLWP 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 This is great, ICM should be sending you and Max free kits in the post for the interest and sales that you must be generating. Cheers Dennis mozart and quang 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 (edited) 4 minutes ago, dennismcc said: This is great, ICM should be sending you and Max free kits in the post for the interest and sales that you must be generating. Cheers Dennis I can't complain Dennis, I had a free sprue from them! Interesting to note reading a thread on Britmodeller this morning that a chap there who's building one admitted that he had been here to look at the builds! We should charge commission maybe I could do with an extra Gladiator kit though for the Gauntlet conversion that I'm planning. Edited February 17, 2020 by mozart dennismcc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 1 hour ago, dennismcc said: This is great, ICM should be sending you and Max free kits in the post for the interest and sales that you must be generating. Cheers Dennis Haha, I won’t mind a second MKII or Sea Gladiator (nudge, nudge). Just to renew the experience. Only this time it will be tidier and hopefully quicker! Quang Landrotten Highlander, mozart, williamj and 7 others 9 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Cracking build my friend, she looks absolutely splendid! Apart from the pitot tubes and the dampers on the main rigging lines, she looks finished to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 18 minutes ago, mozart said: Apart from the pitot tubes and the dampers on the main rigging lines, she looks finished to me? Indeed Max. The final rigging was a treat. Contrary to Max who gathered all the threads in one bunch on the upper wing, I did my rigging one cable at a time, starting from the cabane struts outward. Sometimes, it also helps to turn the plane upside down on its stand. Anyhow here are some quick photos to show off the rigging. The rigging is left unpainted except for the tailplanes. May be it needs to be painted silver, may be not. 'm still pondering but it doesn't look half bad as is. Hope you like it. Like Max said, pitot tubes, dampers, antennas and off to the RFI. Thank you all for looking. Best wishes, Quang mozart, Uncarina, Fanes and 8 others 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Yep, the unpainted Prym looks good in those shots. How did you tackle the "X" between the for'd and aft interplane struts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 (edited) 4 minutes ago, mozart said: Yep, the unpainted Prym looks good in those shots. How did you tackle the "X" between the for'd and aft interplane struts? Like everywhere else with the regular Prym. What was your problem with it? I used 0,25mm Prym everywhere except the flying and landing wires which are the slightly thicker 0,3mm. Edited February 17, 2020 by quang mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 1 hour ago, quang said: Like everywhere else with the regular Prym. What was your problem with it? I used 0,25mm Prym everywhere except the flying and landing wires which are the slightly thicker 0,3mm. My anticipated problem was seating and securing the Prym in the holes whilst the CA cured, particularly holding the Prym in place without any microtube. You clearly achieved this admirably! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 That looks amazing as it is Cheers Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 She looks fantastic quang and the rigging looks excellent. Out of interest is the upper wing a little wobbly or is it nice and strong without needing structural rigging material. Just wondering for when I start mine? Regards. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 7 minutes ago, monthebiff said: Out of interest is the upper wing a little wobbly or is it nice and strong without needing structural rigging material. Hello Andy, It's wobbly at first but can be nice and strong if you follow suit – Note that the slots for the struts under the upper wing are rather deep. You need to put your trust in the ICM designer and glue the struts securely into the upper wing. I used MIG slow dry plastic cement. – Check that the struts are vertical and have the correct slant. Let the assembly harden preferably overnight. – With a bit of luck, the exposed strut ends will coincide with the lower wing slots. – Check the respective geometry of the two planes: symmetry, parallelism, stagger,... Correct if needed. – Glue the struts to the lower wing. Let it harden. – Overturn the plane on its upper wing and insert the cabane struts. Apply Tamiya Thin in the joints. You'll get a nice, sturdy assembly which only gets stronger when all the rigging's done. HTH Q mozart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quang Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 1 hour ago, mozart said: My anticipated problem was seating and securing the Prym in the holes whilst the CA cured, particularly holding the Prym in place without any microtube. Hey Max, There are two main differences between our respective methods. 1 – I do not use the micro-tube to hold the Prym in place. I take one end of the thread in pointed tweezers, dip it into a pool of UV-curing glue, introduce the end in the hole, hold it in place while lighting it up with the UV lamp during 3 seconds. ET voilà! 2 – I use UV-curing glue because it's more forgiving than CA. You have all the time to locate the thread in the hole. The glue won't harden until you shine the light on it. Try it. Let me know how it goes Cheers, Q mozart, Kahunaminor, Paul in Napier and 2 others 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 (edited) I will, never used UV curing glue, sounds useful. Edited February 17, 2020 by mozart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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