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1/18 Scale Blue Box F4U-1A Corsair Modification


JayW

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Thanks very much for the detailed response there Jay! I've been doing a lot of learning about the subject lately. I'm interested in those cutters you had a photo of. I've not been able to find any that have a very narrow cutting tip on them like you have, so I'm always struggling to get in to tight shoulders etc when I turn. Do you remember where you got them or what they're called by any chance?

 

Thanks again for all the info. Check out a chick on youtube called "blondiehacks," she makes very good and very well explained machining videos.

 

Cheers,

 

Craig

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1 hour ago, brahman104 said:

Do you remember where you got them or what they're called by any chance?

 

Craig - pretty sure I got them from E-bay.  I just looked and  there are all kinds of posts, some showing very interesting shapes.  Search for "lathe cutters."

 

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xWXGdD1l.jpg

 

I'm not surprised you struggled with that - it looks horrible!

 

I used to fight with parting off - run at slow speed in back gear, they invariably dug in, chattered and broke.

 

I now have a rear mounted tool, it cuts at normal speeds and always works

 

cross-slide-1.jpg

 

http://www.primrose-engineering.co.uk/raglan-cross-slide/

 

Richard

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10 hours ago, JayW said:

 

Now there is some stuff I have never used, and wondered about.  Would this be for the purposes of filleting inside corners, or for filling very small imperfections, or for general texturing?

 

I have some fairly thick flat or semi-gloss gray paint that is going to cure a few ills so to speak.  Whereas the primer is very thin.  Later on. 

Start at the 7 minute mark and you will see what I mean.  

 

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On 6/2/2020 at 7:45 PM, TwoHands said:

Can I suggest you use Mr. surfacer 500 and stipple the reduction gear case?

 

So now I know what "stippling" is - a good way to make a casting really look like a casting.  Thank you.  I am not sure I will do this - looks like it requires a good bit of practice.  Thanks again.

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On 6/5/2020 at 3:08 AM, Maybach_man said:

Hi Terrific work... On the subject of turning.. There are copious amounts of info and books.... but one i use is Tubal Cains 'Model Engineers Handbook...and in the UK a great company for tools is Chronos..

 

Well I thank you for this.  As a result I just ordered a copy of Cains.  Never too late to learn.

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I have been fretting about the ignition system for this engine.  Material selection issues, lack of good definition from drawings. etc.  Well I am now a little more confident I can produce well scaled distributors and the magneto, and I have settled on 2 MM aluminum picture hanging wire, which I will bet is very similar to suggested Bonzai wire (it was cheaper too).

 

The distributors are made from a piece of .375 inch diameter plastic tube, and a little .08 thick block, then "skinned" with .020 sheet to get the right diameter (I think), and the right teardrop shape.  Like this (ignore arrow please):

 

 R5OS4OLl.jpg

 

The basic build part:

 

zYn7ASel.jpg?1

 

From there a top was fashioned from three layers of plastic sheet, and concentric tubes added to mount to the reduction gearbox:

 

CkUvCw5l.jpg

 

That is a prototype with some problems.  The real ones will look better.

 

Now the harness - I am going through great lengths to make sure it fits well and looks the part.  Perhaps overkill.  First I had to create the initial circular shape - I used a simple tool for that:

 

UnLopw2l.jpg?1

 

Do you like the color of the anodize?  This annealed aluminum is only slightly stiffer than .08 solder. 

 

Then, I needed to add some spacers which represent four clamps, and two distributor attachments, before I forced those severe bends on the lower ends of the wire:

 

  6OuA6abl.jpg?1

 

Now the interesting part - the assembly fixture:

 

4kQ715Rl.jpg?1

 

This accomplishes a few things.  It maintains shape while the harness is being assembled, it locates the "buds" that sprout from the sides (where the wires attach), it locates the clamps, and it provides the posts in which to bend the ends.

 

Like this (note the all-important tight bends, which dictated material selection):

 

  WxAgHyil.jpg?1

 

BclNN4Dl.jpg?1

 

Now the method to the madness is revealed....

 

The "buds" are .078 brass thin tube, filed and cut under heavy magnification.  Three are bonded on here:

 

 iLHz2GIl.jpg?1

 

Next post the harness will be complete and so will the distributors.  I am currently wringing my hands (that's just what I do) about how best to handle the spark plug wires.  Currently leaning toward first attaching to the harness on the table, then installing the harness to the engine block, and then feeding the individual wires to the cylinder heads, etc.  Not sure if I join the two cylinder rows together before or after attaching the harness.....  Lots of concerns about clearances - things are getting tight!

 

Edited by JayW
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JayW, I've been lurking on your projects in awe!

I'm learning a tremendous amount from watching your engineering approach to problem solving. Magnificent!

 

I can't imagine what assembling a proper hamburger would look like in your kitchen though!

 

Thank you for the show.  

 

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Amazing eye for detail and meticulous work! If it’s of any interest and not too late....ANYZ makes resin spark plugs/ connectors, Etc. some nice stuff...I’m sure you’re aware of it already.

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On 6/8/2020 at 3:58 PM, chrish said:

ANYZ makes resin spark plugs/ connectors, Etc. some nice stuff...I’m sure you’re aware of it already.

 

I was NOT aware!  OMG awesome. Only not in 1/18.  :(  Closest is 1/24 and i do not think it is going to cut it.  Stay tuned for what i am going to do with the ignition wires and plugs.  I think it's going to be OK although not to the level of ANYZ.  Thanks mate. 

 

Edited by JayW
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