New from Model Monkey: 1/32 Beaufighter cockpits, dihedral tailplanes and 1/24 Mustang upgrades

[Model_Monkey]

Several Mk.IF customers have asked me to swap their Mk.IF cockpits for the TF. MK.X cockpit to be released late tomorrow.  Since each swap effectively becomes a "pre-order", I have set the product webpage to accept pre-orders for TF Mk.X cockpits now.

 

Thanks for all your support and encouragement!

[Out2gtcha]

15 hours ago, Model_Monkey said:

Several Mk.IF customers have asked me to swap their Mk.IF cockpits for the TF. MK.X cockpit to be released late tomorrow.  Since each swap effectively becomes a "pre-order", I have set the product webpage to accept pre-orders for TF Mk.X cockpits now.

 

Thanks for all your support and encouragement!

 

 

Thanks again for getting this and other Beauf parts out into the world. Regardless of what certain individuals seem to think, I for one have been waiting for something like this for years. and am happy as a clam to buy most any and all well done Beauf parts you make. 

 

 

Was about to place a pre-order for the Mk. X Pit.....................how does one go about that on the web site? 

I can see the "1/32 Bristol Beaufighter Mk.VI and TF Mk.X Cockpit" off of the main page, but cant seem to figure out how to place a pre-order for it. 

[Troy Molitor]

I can certainly agree with Brian’s comments above.   A minor pentance of individuals that simply dont have the cash or imagination to unleash this venture to see the light of day.  If this were the norm, would we ever see a vintage mustang /corvette/ mopar monster or VW on the roads today?  Really, would we?   I’m really excited to see the LSP gents in copy foaming at the mouth to get ahold of this venture.  I’m holding out for those extremely needed positive dihedrial horizontal tail planes to make my order complete.  Please?  Lol.  

This has been the most exciting venture for me personally in 2019.  Rock on Monkey Master.  Rock on I say.

 

Troy 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cant wait to see the next adventure.  Please don’t let any negative 

[Out2gtcha]

3 minutes ago, Troy Molitor said:

 A minor pentance of individuals that simply dont have the cash or imagination to unleash this venture to see the light of day.  If this were the norm, would we ever see a vintage mustang /corvette/ mopar monster or VW on the roads today?  Really, would we?   I’m really excited to see the LSP gents in copy foaming at the mouth to get ahold of this venture.  I’m holding out for those extremely needed positive dihedrial horizontal tail planes to make my order complete.  Please?  Lol.  

This has been the most exciting venture for me personally in 2019.  Rock on Monkey Master.  Rock on I say.

 

 

Well said. 

[Out2gtcha]

Pre-orders are now available to be placed for the TF. Mk X Pit!   

 

 

Order placed! 

[1to1scale]

I must have been the first person to place an order, I got mine yesterday. 

 

I must say that I take 3D printer parts from Shapeways for what they are, low run, need some work, but fill a void. My experience with them was from several different vendors buying parts for my Deagostini Millenium Falcon. The parts are crude, need prep, sanding, cleaning, trimming, and sometimes some scratch enhancements. 

 

So, what do I think on the Model Monkey Beau pit? I am very grateful for the parts being produced in the first place, I went in expecting that they would need a lot of prep work because of the nature of printed parts, so I knew that what I was getting was not the same level of quality as good resin parts. 

 

But...I am completely and utterly blown away by the quality! These are on par with the BEST resin parts on the market! I am speechless! Wow! This is as close to shake and bake as there ever is. Now I need to finish a few projects to build my Beau!

[Model_Monkey]

On 3/30/2019 at 12:50 AM, 1to1scale said:

...But...I am completely and utterly blown away by the quality! These are on par with the BEST resin parts on the market! I am speechless! Wow! This is as close to shake and bake as there ever is. Now I need to finish a few projects to build my Beau!

 

Thank you so very much!  Really appreciate your kind comments!

 

Some very Good News: the first pair of 1/32 scale Bristol Beaufighter Mk.VI / TF Mk.X cockpits is in the printer as I write this. This model differs from the Mk.IF / Mk.II cockpit, already available, in instrumentation, radio type and radio rack configuration.  For example, this instrument panel includes a torpedo sight control.

 

I changed the orientation in the printer in order to reduce the number of supporting sprues.  The trade-off is that the cockpits stand taller in the printer so require more layers to print.  This means it takes two hours longer to print a pair of cockpits, about 14 hours total, slowing production.  I think modelers will find the trade-off is worth it.  Thanks for your patience! 

 

Customers can specify the type of radio to come with their kit, either a TR.1133 (of UK design) or a TR.5043 (of US design).  The TR.1133 is the "default radio" if no radio is specified.  Both types of radios are also available separately in 1/32, 1/24 and 1/48 scales, for your other UK and US aircraft models.  In designing the TR.1133, I found that the stated dimensions published by the Imperial War Museum on their website are in error.  So this design is scaled from scans of original Supermarine Spitfire blueprints.

While we wait for actual models to finish their printing, here are some renderings of the design.  Both radios appear in these renderings.  The TR.1133 is on the rack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 31, 2019 by Model_Monkey
Typo.

[ade rowlands]

Never having used 3D printed materials before, what glue do you use to fix the parts together and then to the kit? I am quite tempted, especially if the rear cockpit gets parts in the future too. 

[Model_Monkey]

 

3 minutes ago, ade rowlands said:

Never having used 3D printed materials before, what glue do you use to fix the parts together and then to the kit? I am quite tempted, especially if the rear cockpit gets parts in the future too. 

 

Great question, Ade.  Cyanoacrylate "superglue" is recommended.  3D-printed gray resin is an acrylic plastic chemically related to Plexiglas.  Acrylate glue like CA works beautifully with it.  Glues for polystyrene plastic like "Testors Liquid Cement" won't work on it.  If the modeler needs to clean the parts for whatever reason, acetone is strongly discouraged as a cleaning agent.  Acetone and acetate can melt 3D-printed plastic.  So can acetone-based superglue remover.

 

Good news: research to design an observer's cockpit and tailplanes is well advanced.  Research for a torpedo is complete, thanks to a modeler who posted scans of blueprints in a post above.

[Out2gtcha]

Thanks again for the pursuit to fruition of all the parts for this ole beast.

 

I was beginning to think we would not only never see a new tool kit but was starting to loose hope we would ever see any AM for the ancient kit.

[Model_Monkey]

An assembly and painting guide for the Mk.VI / TF Mk.X cockpit is ready (please click here).  The first models out of the printer look great.  Too dark here at this writing for good photos so I'll take some early in the morning and post them here.  I think you all will be very pleased.

[LSP_Ray]

Thanks loads, MM! The new cockpit instructions look great!

[Model_Monkey]

Here you go!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[P-8APoseidon]

What is the best way to remove this 3D printed cockpit from the numerous 3D printed columns?  I have a 3D printed airplane kit, that was produced in a similar fashion. 

[Model_Monkey]

Great question.  Here is some support cutting advice.

 

1. Most importantly, take your time.  A rushed job can lead to damaged parts. 

2. Attachment points are smaller in diameter than the sprue.  The attachment points' diameter is 0.6 mm.  The attachment points are weak.  Use a cutting tool that has a scissors motion like a cuticle clipper.  Your tool must be very sharp so that you don't have to force the cut. The old saying, "let the tool do the work", applies.

3. Try not to twist, push or pull when cutting. Place the tool in a good position to cut nearest the part, not the tray.  Try to make the cut so that you do not to have to move the tool or the model when cutting.

5. Gently trim or sand away any remaining "nubs" just like you would on models made from injection-molded polystyrene plastic.

 

If you accidentally break a piece off, you can probably re-attach it using CA glue. Gray resin does not bend, so the break itself is not likely to be deformed.

A different cutting technique may work better for large models.  For example, big, hollow objects like tank or ship turrets have a lot of difficult-to-reach internal sprues.  Cut those sprues nearest the tray, not the model.  Start at the outside, working your way around the model.  Work inwards, carefully cutting away the tray.  Then cut the sprues from the model.  Make the cut near the attachment point.  Again, try not to twist, pull or push. 

 

Hope this helps!

Edited April 1, 2019 by Model_Monkey
Typo.