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CANicoll

Revell 1/28 Spad XIII

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Second Revell build of the legendary (for better or for worse) 1/28 series of kits.  Figuring I did the Red Baron first, so needed an Allied plane as balance - hence the Spad.  Very similar issues to the Fokker kit so won't repeat here.  Using both Model Air and Tamiya paints.

 

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Lots more rigging than the Fokker DR I, went the EZ Line rout again, but really liked that the wing struts are pre-rigged before you assemble the wings which will make things so much easier. Yay!

 

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The scallops on the wing surfaces are full of flash.  Just when I think I got it all, the primer (or subsequent coat of paint) shows me where I missed.

 

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Incredibly simple cockpit. Looks better with the gauge decals in place.

 

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Rigged the wing struts after a coat of wood paint.

 

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And the wings and fuselage masked for the camo pattern

 

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Here is the tail with the huge rudder decal.  I have yet to find a solvent to help the decal settle.  They are a bit thick!

 

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Hopefully more tomorrow!

 

Chris

Edited by CANicoll

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Vaugh,

 

I hear you and thanks for the kind comment!  

 

My un-educated perspective is that the enamels offers a superior finish over most acrylics, but, with the exception of the Tamiya paints which I just can't seem to put down smoothly (and I've tried various thinning rations, multiple pressure settings and even different airbrushes), I'm finding I can do a pretty decent job with the Model Master and the Vallejo acrylics.  Plus I can paint them with limited ventilation which is a must where I currently live.

 

But agreed, its one of the modeling skills we have to develop along the way.

 

Chris

Edited by CANicoll

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Chris,

  Just an excellent job on a kit that is older then most of the members here. Pete and I will be 70 this Nov, so we still have senority.  Your camo pattern really looks quite good.

 

  I've been air brushing Tamiya Acrylics since I got back into the hobby 8 years ago. I've modified my air brushing proceedures to the point where I get a smooth, consistant finish equal to what I was use to achieving with Model Master enamels. (I'm no fan of MM acrylics as they have a real hard time sticking to anything).

 

  I thin Tamiya acrylics with their Yellow Cap lacquer Thinner, which really helps to break down the paint pigment much better then their X-20A does. My usual mixing ratio is 2 parts paint to 3 parts thinner. For the times I want to apply a really thin color coat, I'll go to 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner. I also add 1 drop of Winsor & Newton Acrylic flow Improver for each 12 drops of paint mixture, as it makes a big difference in MHO. My working flow rate is 14-16 psi.

 

Joel

Edited by Joel_W

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Joel,  This  is one of the things I love about this forum - learning from more experienced folks.  Thanks for this.

 

I've actually never even heard of the yellow cap Tamiya thinner.  But the X-20 thinner I have is not doing the job.  I'm also surprised at your thinning ratios.  I can say never tried those, but we are spraying at the same pressure.  Ok, have to go find some yellow cap thinner.  Or maybe just give up on the Tamiya paints.  I kind of hate having three different brands (not including the Metalizers I seem to have a lot of - sigh).

I'll probably get the yellow cap thinner tho - I still have a lot of the Tamiya paint.  Will let you know how it goes!

Chris

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Making progress, but even at this scale and without having to try and use turnbuckles and all of that, the rigging for the landing gear alone took longer than it really should have.  And the wings took some time too.  

 

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As you can see, also made progress with the decals with a bit of problem...

 

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The decals were printed in 2013 but took some work to get down around some details and I ended up tearing one.  Double sigh.  No extras so I think the wing just got a 'patch' with slightly mismatched paint. :-).  Looks like someone took a bite out of the upper left roundel. 

 

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This seems to be a build of lessons-learned.  Like, don't mask using tape you've never used before for masking, especially when you didn't prime before painting.

 

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So a few things to fix this week.

 

Chris

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Joel,  This  is one of the things I love about this forum - learning from more experienced folks.  Thanks for this.

 

I've actually never even heard of the yellow cap Tamiya thinner.  But the X-20 thinner I have is not doing the job.  I'm also surprised at your thinning ratios.  I can say never tried those, but we are spraying at the same pressure.  Ok, have to go find some yellow cap thinner.  Or maybe just give up on the Tamiya paints.  I kind of hate having three different brands (not including the Metalizers I seem to have a lot of - sigh).

I'll probably get the yellow cap thinner tho - I still have a lot of the Tamiya paint.  Will let you know how it goes!

Chris

 

Chris,

   The Yellow cap Thinner originally was for their Lacquer line that's also not imported here.  My LHS carries it in is Tamiya rack. Sprue Brothers, and Scalehobbyist.com, my two go to online vendors also carry it. But I guess the issue is who carries it in Canada.

 

  I use to thin Tamiya acrylics 1 to 1 with X-20A and then Yellow Cap, but had issues with a lot of over spray, and needing a 20+ psi flow rate. Actually, it was my brother who 1st heard of, then saw videos on light mist coats that required a thinner consistency of paint. So I started to experiment and settled on those ratios. But like I said, the Windsor & Newton Flow Improver made a difference I could see.

 

 Another change I made because I was now air brushing at a reduced rate of flow with thinner paint, was to be able to move in much closer. That in turn ended almost all of the over spray issues, and allowed me to do slow down and really control where and how the paint went. It was almost like painting once again with Lacquer.  I do give credit where credit is do, and the switch from a external, to a internal air brush was a big part in all of this. Of course by the time I switched, just about everyone modeling was using a internal mix AB.

 

Joel

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Chris,

   Just saw you latest post. Talk about making progress. The rigging looks pretty darn good to me, but if  the Turnbuckles would have reduced the time and made the job that much easier, why didn't you use them?

 

  Decaling looks pretty good. How are you planning on fixing that tear?

 

  I've found that sticking decals are easiest to re-adjust using warm water with a drop or two of dishwashing liquid applied over and working it around and under the decal with a medium size brush.  Trying to move the decal with even Micro Set makes them want to stick, hence the possibility of tearing.

 

Joel

Edited by Joel_W

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Joel, thanks for the added information. And yeah, I tore the decal as I was mucking with it when I should have just let it go.  I was working some bubbles out from under it after it had set a while.  I know better than that.   I've been doing the light coats followed by a 'wet coat' and that seems to work pretty well.  If I'm doing a faded effect, the light coats really help moderate the look.

 

And Shawn, we are thinking the same thing.  :rolleyes:

 

I just about finished the rigging.  Honestly, if I had known there was THIS much rigging, I would have passed on the kit. But in for a penny, in for a pound and it turned out not to be that bad, just a little bit time consuming.  The stretch of the EZLine helps since it stretches and I've already banged stuff around more than a little.

 

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I thought about trying to take the twist out, but I kind of like the look.

 

Here is the tail, dry fitted mostly to let the decals dry.  Had to 'drop the flaps' so to speak.  Which actually involved just bending the elevators down.  Ha!!

 

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And here is part of the nose piece with the machine guns in place.  Its coming together.  I don't want to get the top wing on until I do some touch-up painting and some detail painting and then will tie down the rest of the rigging.

 

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MIGHT make my Wednesday deadline.  Maybe...

Edited by CANicoll

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