LSP_Ron Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 I had exactly the same experience. Spend hours wiring the plugs to find the shroud doesn't fit and had to rip them out. The ones on the top intake area of the engine will fit fine. I am getting my builds mixed up I had this problem on my Spit build. I didn't try wiring the Mustang's engine because the cowl is closed. dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Pure pleasure to follow your build, Mark! dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceofClubs Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Wow Mark, spectacular details. Bravissimo Ciao Filippo dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Ron, I'm now wishing I had decided to close the cowling, as well. Maybe it's not too late. There's plenty to show without the engine. Thank you, Tomek. It too is my pleasure to follow your build. Thank you, Filippo. Your jumping beans make me smile. Well, after viewing Wolfs' Magnificent Merlin it became clear to me that it was time to stop short-changing this build. Call it Winter Doldrums, Residual Effect from the near disaster of the K-4 build, or whatEVERRR! I was comprimising too many decisions for no sake at all. So with renewed vigor, and X-Acto blade, I began again. Making a loom. I've got more than a few more of these to make. Hard drive communication cable wiring. In place. The electrical line closest to the camera: I drilled the styrene rod and inserted a brass rod so when the 90degree bend was made the rod retained its shape. A simple jig to drill .030 punched hex nuts. I squeezed the strips to hold the nut in place while I center punched and drilled. These have been doubled up. In place. The discs are .005. 2 stacked .010 discs were too thick, and a single .010 disc was not accurate. So I punched out large and small .005 discs. Stacked hex nuts as retainers. .012 brass rod. A simple jig to cut .010 hex nuts from rod. The reason for all of those .010 hex nuts. Re-doing 2 of these took most of the time. Doesn't look very different from before in this view. But it's 99% brand new. A difference can be seen in this view. Following Wolfs' lead I searched thru my references to see if the tie-down ring could be found in a position other than horizontal and came up blank. But that is not to say there may be something on the net, where I did not search. Because, it doesn't make sense to me that the tie-down would not be on a swivel. Anyway, I shaved it off and rotated it, redid the brake line and tie in to the brake cylinder, and added a nut and grease fitting at the top. The green insulation is supposed to represent lock nuts. 2 new nuts; different sizes, a grease fitting, a punched disc at the resin bolt, and a new flexible hose to strut connection, which is more in synch with the real deal. I am awaiting new punches so I can punch a couple of sub-miniature discs. 2 more below. Lars Befring, lawman56 and sandokan 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 All dressed up, front side view. All dressed up, back side view. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark sandokan, Lars Befring and lawman56 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Incredible work as usual Mark, and super problem-solving too with the jig for cutting the hex nuts. These will look fantastic with some paint on! Kev dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceofClubs Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Hi Mark, outstanding wip pics. Many thanks for your hints and tips tutorials! But could you, please, replace actual rubber wheels (with those ... seams) with better resin ones (from your own made cast, of course )? All the best Filippo dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpig Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Superb work Mark! Joe dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Hi Mark, Just looked into the Mustang GB and found you not sure how I missed this. Just read the whole WIP and you are doing some fantastic work on her, will be watching every update from now on. Regards Richard dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Thank you, thank you, thank you! One and all for stopping by and eliciting such nice comments!A minor update. Some quickly accomplished and some very time consuming.Some quickly accomplished stuff: Drilled .025 styrene rod, with brass rod insert. I made an eyelette at the base of both brass rods to capture the stainless steel rod Tamiya supplies. I didn't like the stainless steel sides Tamiya supplied so I used them as a stencil and cut replacements from .010 sheet.Drilled a couple of holes into the indents Tamiya supplied and punched a few hex nuts. That is the drill bit I used to drill a squared inner face opening. If I had used a round tipped bit the back face would have been rounded and the hex would not have set flat.Time-consuming stuff:I redid the heater, laminating .005 to .010 so I can squeeze in an electrical line. Fixed the heater top, added a punched disc, and remade the 2 insulation pieces. I hope to loom the solenoid wire and have it branch off and enter the solenoid. We'll see.A couple of hex nuts to start things off. Added a strip of .005 to extend the sides.Punched a bunch of discs to make a couple of pulleys. .010 disc laminated between two .005 discs. .010 rod bolts cut with a single edge razer. I have found that using a single edge razer is the biggest key to cutting these. An X-Acto blade is too thick.Who knows what contraption this is? But it goes on top of the strut. Punched .010 disc as base. 1/16" x 2mm rod with .010 solder wrapped around it. Another punched disc. Punched hex nut on top. Shaped .005 bits. .010 rod. .010 square strip.All made up. 1/16" rod as shafts, punched .005 sheet spacers. Thin rod is .010.Another view.Last one. Too bad it won't be seen up there in the fuselage. Oh, well. It was a good thought, anyway. Even if it is way too overdone.Thanks for looking in.Sincerely,Mark Edited January 18, 2018 by dodgem37 sandokan, KiwiZac, Lars Befring and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Fantastic work Mark. You have such a great eye for detail, and such a great knack for reproducing it in miniature. Kev dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Wow, very nice work Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Awesome work on your Mustang build Mark! Very nicely done. I'm pretty sure the apparatus you've scratch built that sits atop the tail wheel strut is the tail wheel lock mechanism. All in all, really well done. You've raised the bar again! The one thing that I am trying to figure out while looking at the kit parts is how to make the tail wheel castor and still retain the strength of the tail wheel strut. Something I'll have to figure out when I get to my own build of the Mustang. Keep at 'er Mark, Cheers, Wolf dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Nice work Mark! Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud? One thing I found with the Spitfire is that the framework that supports the exhaust shroud sits very tight to the cylinder head and interferes with the plug wires if they are set proud of the cylinder head. What you've done may make the exhaust shroud not fit. Just check before you get too far. That's why I didn't bother to represent the spark-plugs and just drilled holes in the cylinder heads to accept the solder plug wires. If I'm not totally mistaken, the "T" shaped apparatus below the ignition conduit, mounted to the side of the engine block is the oil pressure regulator and an external pressure gauge could be fitted to check oil pressure during maintenance. Where did you source the braided line for the flexible ignition conduit? One other observation, you may want to change the orientation of the tow bar eyelet pieces at the bottom of the main gear legs. They should be oriented horizontally rather than vertically if you know what I mean. Cheers, Wolf I had exactly the same experience. Spend hours wiring the plugs to find the shroud doesn't fit and had to rip them out. The ones on the top intake area of the engine will fit fine. Thank you, Wolf, Ron. 'Have you tried to dry fit the engine in to it's carrier mount and add the exhaust shroud?' I have not, but I now shall. I've only been test fitting into the mount. 'Where did you source the braided line for the flexible ignition conduit?' http://www.detailmas...y_Code=DM-Braid 'One other observation, you may want to change the orientation of the tow bar eyelet pieces at the bottom of the main gear legs. They should be oriented horizontally rather than vertically if you know what I mean.' I do know what you mean. When I was punching discs, drilling holes, and looking at my references I noticed how 'Dragon got it right and Tamiya got it wrong'. I had forgotten about it. Appreciate you bringing it back to life. I'll look into it. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark Hey guys I could not make sense out of being able to pick from running the plug wires on either the top of the engine by the intake manifold OR on the exhaust side. I did some research and found that when looking fron the supercharger end the magneto on the right is the 'A' mag and the one on the left is the "B" mag. The A mag is wired to the intake side spark plugs and the B mag is wired to the exhaust side plugs. Each cylinder has 2 spark plugs. Hope this helps sort out the ignition wiring. By the way, the "research" was done on Marks link. Thanks Mark The info is on pg 2 http://aviationshopp...nuals-a-26.html Bud dodgem37 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 (edited) 'The one thing that I am trying to figure out while looking at the kit parts is how to make the tail wheel castor and still retain the strength of the tail wheel strut.' I took a look at the issue and, after making two struts, decided to score and cut the wheel strut off with a single edge razer, drill a hole into the strut angle, insert a pin, cut some rod (the strut up in the housing), drill a hole in the rod to insert the pin, drilled the housing to receive the rod, and drilled a pin hole into the top to receive the 1mm pin extension. This way the strut rotates on the pin and not on the rod. It works for me, but others' mileage may vary. I'll post the mock-up a little later. 'Hope this helps sort out the ignition wiring.' Indeed it does. Page 29 is helpful also. Sincerely, Mark Edited April 14, 2012 by dodgem37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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