Mikester Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hi Ralph. Thanks for the insight on your painting. Two questions though, what airbrush do you use, and where do you have access to the Tamiya paint? Here in California, it's almost impossible to find any of it, and yet you have all of these colors. Do you have a secret supplier? Anyway, keep up the amazing work, can't wait to see more. Matt Matt, When I lived in Cali every reasonably sized hobby shop carried Tamiya paint, our Hobbytown in Temecula carried the full range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Matt, When I lived in Cali every reasonably sized hobby shop carried Tamiya paint, our Hobbytown in Temecula carried the full range. That used to be the case, but now it's impossible. Still waiting for the production to come back up after the earthquake I guess. I found a bottle of Nato Black I had squirreled away, and I was really happy. But I'm all out of the basic colors, white, yellow, red, most of the grays. It's just hard to get a hold of the stuff, and glue is hard to find too. Just started getting the Putty back in, but I'm hoping for primer to come in soon too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Riese Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hi Ralph. Thanks for the insight on your painting. Two questions though, what airbrush do you use, and where do you have access to the Tamiya paint? Here in California, it's almost impossible to find any of it, and yet you have all of these colors. Do you have a secret supplier? Anyway, keep up the amazing work, can't wait to see more. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Riese Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hello Matt: Kev's response about Tamiya paint stocks here in Australia is correct - lots of the stuff still on hobbyshop shelves. I use the acrylic range - mostly still thinned with Tamiya's acrylic thinner. I have been playing with lacquer thinner, but have yet to work out whether it is safe to use spirit-based oil/enamel washes over lacquer-thinned acrylics without a full acrylic sealer coat. I use an Aztek A470 aribrush fitted with the 0.3mm tan tip. Cheers, Ralph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haggis Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Mate, you've got that finished nailed, awesome. I've got some left over spinners from the Cyber-Hobby kit and I'll have a hunt around in my Eduard stash as I've got a couple in the pile. I'll PM you when I've had a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hello Matt: Kev's response about Tamiya paint stocks here in Australia is correct - lots of the stuff still on hobbyshop shelves. I use the acrylic range - mostly still thinned with Tamiya's acrylic thinner. I have been playing with lacquer thinner, but have yet to work out whether it is safe to use spirit-based oil/enamel washes over lacquer-thinned acrylics without a full acrylic sealer coat. I use an Aztek A470 aribrush fitted with the 0.3mm tan tip. Cheers, Ralph. Thank you. I love the Tamiya paint, but I'm having to be really selective with my dwindling supplies. Sounds like the paint supplies are still good down in Oz. About the oil washes, it is perfectly safe to use them over acrylics, I do it all the time, usually without Future. I personally use the Gunze Leveling Thinner with my acrylic paint, and that's a lacquer-like thinner, and I've used lacquer thinner before, and had no problems with the oils. It's more of the paint itself than the thinner, since most of the thinner will dry away when the paint dries and hardens. Either way, your work is amazing. If I could paint 1/100th as well as you, I'd be a happy guy. Your Spitfire was an inspiration, and this one looks to be just as amazing, if not even better. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 I have been playing with lacquer thinner, but have yet to work out whether it is safe to use spirit-based oil/enamel washes over lacquer-thinned acrylics without a full acrylic sealer coat. It should be fine Ralph. I thin my Gunze and Tamiya acrylics with all kinds of stuff, including Mr Color Thinner and occasionally, generic lacquer thinner. Admittedly, I tend to use gloss coats before washes anyway, but I've used the combination you're concerned about in cockpits and wheel bays before with no problems (other than the excessive staining effect caused by using the wash over flat paints). Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 If I'm not mistaken, Ralph's based in Queensland, Australia. Tamiya paints are plentiful down here. Can't seem to find any Extra Thin Cement though... Kev Kev, there's plenty of the extra thin cement here in Adelaide as well as all the Tamiya stuff. Have your tried their Lacquer thinner yet? You can use it tho thin any acrylics and also enamels. The best thing about it is that it will disolve Mr Surfacer without damaging the plastic. I have even used it to take paint of a model. For some reason their lacquer thinner is plastic friendly. Drop me a pm with your addy and I mail you some ET cement if you can't find it. I can even find all the Tamiya paints etc in Moscow! Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Kev, there's plenty of the extra thin cement here in Adelaide as well as all the Tamiya stuff. Have your tried their Lacquer thinner yet? You can use it tho thin any acrylics and also enamels. The best thing about it is that it will disolve Mr Surfacer without damaging the plastic. I have even used it to take paint of a model. For some reason their lacquer thinner is plastic friendly. Drop me a pm with your addy and I mail you some ET cement if you can't find it. I can even find all the Tamiya paints etc in Moscow! Cheers. Thanks for the offer buddy. I'm good for a little while yet, especially since I'm not doing any modelling at the moment. I haven't tried Tamiya's lacquer thinner yet, but I'm led to believe that it's similar to Mr Color Thinner, which I use all the time for purposes similar to your own. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Hello Matt: Kev's response about Tamiya paint stocks here in Australia is correct - lots of the stuff still on hobbyshop shelves. I use the acrylic range - mostly still thinned with Tamiya's acrylic thinner. I have been playing with lacquer thinner, but have yet to work out whether it is safe to use spirit-based oil/enamel washes over lacquer-thinned acrylics without a full acrylic sealer coat. I use an Aztek A470 aribrush fitted with the 0.3mm tan tip. Cheers, Ralph. Amazing stuff Ralph, simply amazing work. I see you use the universally unpopular Aztek A470 (as does Brett Green) which is poo pooed by many as a cheap and nasty airbrush. I must say I think you have proven the talent lay in the operator and not the technology!!! Regards and hero worship Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piltdown Man Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 I never realised that there were so many colours of black. I'm also very impressed with the wheel wells and the overall paint finish is outstanding. PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Riese Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Bringing out some detail before applying the pre-decal gloss coat... Careful wet-sanding with 4000 grade Micromesh removes the paint from the rivet "bumps". A bit too heavy here and there so some touchups needed. Intentional high-contrast postshading - should tone down and pull together after decals, washes etc. Going for a "been out and back afew times" look. "Rivets" look overdone and too regular in the closeup pics. Not too bad at distance though. Very easy to remove the thin camo postsahde layers when wet-sanding the rivets. On to the undersides...... Comments welcome. Apologies to those who may have seen the pics on Hyperscale. Thanks for looking Cheers, Ralph. tomv87, florin13 and Rdrunner 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikester Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Amazing work, Ralph! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 You have a remarkably gifted hand, Ralph. Beautifully rendered. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 And once again,… outstanding paintwork Ralph. You seem to have mastered subtlety. I do have a question though, didn’t the 110 have a pass through tube at the aft lifting points? It seems that the BF-109 and FW-190 had a tube that passed from one side to the other through which a post could be passed that enabled the rear end to be hoisted or jacked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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