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Piltdown Man

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About Piltdown Man

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/12/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wor Yem

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    trevormichaelaustin
  1. The T models rarely have their engines out. They are a “get you home†or instant thermal if you like (and noisy as hell). For those who are interested the engine is virtually control free. It's either out and on at full throttle or off and stowed. So returning the model, the difference will be the decal, one will have a T on the end of the name. PM
  2. The chemical option works very well. These people appear to have a very large range. https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing.aspx I've used both the Brass Black and Brass Blue products and they work as described. When using the product make sure you decant it into a smaller, non metallic container and use whatever you remove from the bottle. If you poor it back you might pollute it and possibly destroy its effectiveness. I've always bought mine from gun shops. But in the UK these places are now as rare as model shops so if you don't have one nearby you may have to resort to that well known retailer named after the river associated with deforestation. PM
  3. For working use a head-loupe or a magifying lamp. I believe binocular vision is essential for both the assembly and painting of small parts. As for how you paint small details, that's another matter. You have to be cunning! Small paint brushes, bow pens, toothpicks, wire, masking tape, air-masks, cotton, transfers are just some of the tools available. And then you have various painting techniques.... Trevor
  4. Can I be really horrible? You have built fantastically realistic renditions of totally useless items - tie-down tyres filled with concrete. Yes, they do exist and you find them everywhere. But unfortunately not enough people remember that a two seater aircraft often flies with a payload of 200 kgs (plus fuel) and the heaviest of these things is about 30-40 Kgs. And they will fly at say, 35-40 kts? These tie-downs are as much use as a chocolate teapot. But returning to the model and diorama - I have loved every posting and I am really impressed with not only the 3D printing (artwork/drawing/planning) but also with the assembly, painting and finishing (the bit where us mortals normally start). Brilliant! Thank you. Trevor
  5. I could be really cheeky and ask where you get those huge matches from, but that would be an insult to the superb work you are showing us. But would it be possible for you to show us a photo walk-through of another of your incredible pieces of miniature engineering? I'd like to learn a little more. Trevor
  6. Maybe not. Have you ever heard of this book? PM
  7. Oliver, Like everyone else who has followed this thread I am inspired by your building. I can see how some things are done, can guess at others and assume the rest is done by modelling fairies, smoke, magic & mirrors. But could I ask you some very personal questions: Firstly, is your job related to modelling ie. are you an engineer? Secondly, what is your modelling background? You don't start with work of this quality, you have to be like us and start at the bottom somewhere? Thirdly, are you an artist as well? The reason I ask is that you have a keen eye for not only content (and interpretation) but also colour, composition and texture. Next a suggestion - change your red 'Runway Ahead' sign. To me, I see it as "You are on Taxiway Bravo, ahead of this sign is runway 01L-08R". But that is a curved runway. It is therefore 01L-19R or 08R-26L. And I can't see why the military wouldn't do heavy maintenance on taxiway. The men with spanners prefer to work inside away from active runways, but that's not always possible. Now a request - would you include a little more technique in your posts? Like many others I'm sure, I would like to improve scratch building skills and whilst trial and error works, being led and taught by a expert such as yourself has to be the most efficient way forward. Lastly, you have inspired me to improve my accuracy and do more scratch building - Thank you. Trevor
  8. I would never have thought of combining brass and filler in the way that you have. But I can see why it makes sense - use the most appropriate media for the job and hand and don't get too precious about what you use. Modelling is all about the satisfaction of the route you take and the final visual result - there are no rules on either. But can I ask two questions please? Firstly, what filler are you using and secondly, how do you get such a smooth finish? PM And thank you for sharing your brilliant work!
  9. I'm not sure what to say. To say this is marvelous is an understatement. Personally, I believe you have chosen a very reasonable line between the old and the new. But I'll tell you for sure I'll be stealing as many of your ideas as I can when I start doing wood in earnest. PM
  10. LDR - Thank you for sharing your build. I'm new to scratch building and really appreciate some the blind alleys you've being taking us along. You are showing us what is and what is not possible. Also, the shots you have submitted illustrate your story in the minimum number of photos, and that is an art as well. Keep it up! PM
  11. Your walk-throughs are really good and you have captured the "I've been been here for ages" look on the buildings. It's also very clear you are excellent at observation. A superb job. But could I ask a question please? I see you start with plaster which is then scribed. How do you then build up colour and what paints do you use? Is the final effect the result of numerous washes and tints or do you have the knack (gift) of a single splosh of paint? Thanks in advance, Trevor
  12. I never realised that there were so many colours of black. I'm also very impressed with the wheel wells and the overall paint finish is outstanding. PM
  13. As far as I am concerned, it's as good as damn it, finished. I will be playing about by blowing a few bits in with an airbrush, adding some ferns and flowers, but that's about it. Firstly, the windsock. And here's what we have: I really enjoyed making this display stand. There was no need for real accuracy nor neatness. It was just a matter of getting stuck in. It didn't turn out how I initially planned it because the initial idea had a wooden office and an external equipment store. The office would have over-powered the entire thing so it was discarded. So I included a windsock and Stevenson screen to make this ex-farmer's field a bit more aeronautical. The only specialist items purchased were the "leaves" and static grass. The rest was scratch built with cheap (I do mean cheap) materials such as string, hanging basket liner, cardboard, cheap PVA glue, colour testers from DIY shops, sand and earth. The base was made from MDF and the terrain formed with damp cardboard laid over foamboard. The most expensive single item was "Rust-o-leam" textured paint for the edges. The cheapest were sand and twigs from my garden. Blast away if you have any questions. PM
  14. I have not tried any Iwata nor any Paasche products. But I tried the following: Revell Profi-Plus, Aztec, Badger (single action) and H&S Evolution Silverline. Each as plusses and minuses but overall, the once that scores the most is the H&S. It gives a good spray pattern, is very controllable, is very easy to dismantle and clean and extras/spares are readily available. PM
  15. Just a small list from me: 1:32 Hawker Hurricane MK II (B o PM
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