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Bf109 E-4/B "Yellow 6" Oblt. Otto Hintze 3./ Erpr.Gr210 1940


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  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys,


you will be somewhat relieved to know that the break in posting has NOT been due to JamesH going on maternity leave with my babies! laugh.gif


it has been because i have been wrestling - quite literally at times fight.gif- with my 109 and the somewhat wonky alignment of well, something!

basically i think that the cowling area ie the "chin" bit has become misaligned due to all my fiddling with the engine etc etc, and therefore when i glued the wings something looked "off" - from the back it looked dead on, from the front, rather askew

this will (hopefully) be masked by the fact that when the spinner is attached, you will no longer have a definitive point of horizontal reference outside the wings themselves


this is undoubtedly my fault, and no-one else's, but would not have occurred had i gone through the same detailing process on say, my 190 Dora that i recently built or, perhaps more relevantly, i do not believe it would have been so problematic with DML's new 109 offering.


i shall say no more on the subject




next up i set about correcting the slats, which Eduard has made way too deep

if you think this doesn't matter, fair play to you, but it will bite you in the posterior if you try line up certain Balkenkreuze in their correct position - they will end up overlapping the slats when in fact they should not


i left the original slat line in place, and used it as my guide when scoring the new one; i took about 1-2mm off along its length

electrician's tape is used to mask the line, then radu's scrib-r, and then tamiya's scribing tool (bit more heavy duty, but needs a "feeder" line first)




here you can see the difference




next i applied mr dissolved putty to the original line




and a bit of sanding...




and then re-scribing some of the lines and also rivets (loved doing that - not), but the result seems ok




i will only see for certain once i prime everything, but i think we are pretty close




that's it for the time being - time to go outside and do some work in the vegetable patch! smile.gif


PS sorry for not responding Matt - i have completely left the bomb rack stuff until now, but at least thank to you i now have all the refs at my finger tips!





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next i applied mr dissolved putty to the original line

Doesn´t the dissolved putty shrink? I would have used CA glue or Magic Sculp (or Milliput) for these don´t shrink.


that's it for the time being - time to go outside and do some work in the vegetable patch!

You are doing what? I have been outside this morning, too: to shovel snow! 73.gif



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Thank you Misha; it is a "challenging" model, if you want to get it right.



never used (or seen) Magisculpt - not sure where to get from here in UK.

I have Milliput but never used it; the Mr Putty is so easy to use - just dab it on with a toothpick so that it is raised ie too much, and let it dry - it does shrink but not that much.

For large gaps proper putty is probably the answer, but this is a panel line, not a trench.


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hi again


just a quickie!


the radiators will sit too proudly from the wing so i had to sand them down a bit, and this is of course much easier to sand the inside before you attach them, rather than what i did on my previous 109 build (let's not go there! ninja.gif)




however, once you do that, you then have to sand down the radiator itself, otherwise the cover just does not fit over it




i squared off the backs a little as with the flaps open you can see the edge




sprayed the surround rlm65, then added the (trimmed to fit) PE radiator grills




when i come to the main painting part i will mask off the grill area, so this way i have a nice sharp definition line between the rlm65 and the gunze dark iron of the radiator, and don't have to fiddle inside with a tiny paint brush etc etc


cheers for now



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very good looking details. you have done very well with radiators. i also don't like that thick plastick details. they are out of scale and model begins to look like toy.

I have almost finished correction of my HASSEGAWA me109-e, but after eduard and others have done this plane, it is waiting for my inspiration.

Cheers Misha.

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back to the engine area...


the supercharger intake in resin is very nicely done, but does not seem to mate up with the supercharger itself, so i added a couple of bits of styrene rod and sanded them to get a better match




i had to snip away the surrounding "panel" that comes with it - i simply could not get it match up with the cowling behind




here you can see what i have "snipped"....




and after i replaced it...




but the fit is still rubbish - primarily because i got the angle of the intake wrong, but hey ho




attempted solution next...

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i had to insert a small bit of styrene rod to make the gap disappear at the bottom...




and add some filler - going to be fun trying sand in here!




then it was a bit more sanding and rescribing panel lines...




that's it for now





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more wheel wells - the never ending saga that somehow those clever chaps at DML have solved with a single Dragon Styrene part...but moving on!


there was quite a gap between my simulated canvas cover and the trough where the oleo lays, so i had to fill this up


i used a strip of 1mm lead wire to start




then covered it in Mr Dissolved Putty




then gave it a prod and a nudge when almost dry 9i think i left it a bit late actually but there you go) and then painted over




i may well re-paint the canvas bit (going to be fiddly that's for sure) because it has come out too green in my colour-blind opinion; i might put some RLM66 over it, we'll see





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here is a pic of the "wrestling match" i was having with my Emil to try to correct a warp...




i still don't think it is 100% but i reckon it will be close enough


basically doing some "housekeeping" bits before finishing the cockpit, and then FINALLY getting round to priming...


i don't think there should be a panel line down the middle here as far as i can tell so i puttied it and then sanded later




i removed the moulded detail on the wing and replaced it with a combination of PE and plasticard - the latter was only used because i tweezer-pulted one of the bits into oblivion the other night! BANGHEAD2.jpg




and after...




i also saw to the rudder actuator rods - first i fiddled with the plastic moulded on to the rudder




then used brass tube for the rods




at least it is starting to look like an Emil now i think




more in a minute...

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i gently sanded some of the fabric detail off the control surfaces - Eduard have overdone it a little bit, but this is a relatively easy fix


the replacements from EagleEditions are i'm sure lovely, but they are bloody expensive, and until i see them first hand, i am not buying them 9anyone used them???)




not sure if i posted before, but i also added some of the buckles / clips that keep the cowlings etc in place - for the brassin part they give you a nice recess which the PE part fits into - this is a really nice touch


the rest are just slapped on the surface - not sure how this will look, but it's done now!




peeled away the mask from the pit...note rudder hard left




then note also rudder is actually hard right!!!





i've fixed this now btw...


the first 2 canopy pieces fit really nice and snug




but the last piece does not because i think Aires have molded the two pieces of detail on the cockpit backplate too far to the outside


some delicate sanding was involved but i think it should work out now


finally, i used gator glue to fix the main instrument panel together - i will add details and gunsight tomorrow






but i have to go and prune my roses now, and then it's off to the pub to watch the rugby - come on England!!! beer4.gifbeer4.gifbeer4.gif


cheers for looking



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