Out2gtcha Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Nice work wrastlin' the warp back into place. I know all to well what its like to end up lookin down the fuse only to find your worst "twisted" fear has come true. Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martinnfb Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Nice progress Nick,I really like your sense for the fine detail. Thanks for sharing. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 more a news update than a build update, but i see Eduard have announced a Brassin gun deck for the Emil - looks kind of cool, and the big plus is that the panel covering the guns looks to have been moulded as one piece, as it is on the real thing i still think the big weakness of their Brassin updates (thus far, it may change i guess) is the lack of a new panel for the "chin" of the aircraft, and the relevant detail for the oil cooler etc anyway, shame it came too late for my build - but i suppose if you always wait for the perfect kit / aftermarket to come out you never build anything! hope to have a "real" update when i get back from Munich tomorrow cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 ok just a quickie - i'll update some more later this evening hopefully i used Testors clear parts cement to try to simulate the glass dials on the IP, after not having much luck with future (which i think was seeping between the 2 PE panels) not great pics btu there is a bit of a gleam and glint of "glass" when viewed with the naked eye added the acetate panels for the Revi sight then added bomb rack... the sway braces will be added afterwards, as they are liable to snap off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 i added the braces on to the canopy - i should have painted them first... then glued on using tamiya extra thin...i don't for the life of me know why i didn't use gator glue, but anyway... my finger was obviously just touching teh join between canopy and fuselage - capillary action took care of the rest my fist took care of the problem and take two with a canopy from another kit in the stash note painted spars first this time - much better; attached with gator glue rear canopy attached, but not a great fit... you can see hear, but not sure what i'll do (if anything) - i will wait until i have primed everything then re-visit that's it for the time being Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 hi, i masked the engine area and also the canopies i wasn't sure which approach to use for the latter, so ended up using a combination of stuffing bits of tissue in gaps (rear) and masking off areas (rear and front) doesn't look very neat or pretty, so let's hope it does the job! then sprayed gunze rlm 66 on the canopy frames then i primed using rattle can mr surfacer 1200 - this stuff is THE best primer i have ever used (much better than tamiya and alclad for instance) i literally held the bird up by one wing, and sprayed down onto the fuselage side, then repeated for the other side once that was done, i rested it on some paint pots and did the top side the coat was applied "wet" but it will not run even the tiniest 9or fairly large as in this case!) of flaws will show up priming with this stuff, so it is an excellent check of how good your finish really is! cheers for now Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Looks great so far Nick. I just got done using MS 1000 to fill some not-so-trench-like panel lines on my P-40, and worked well. I have always loved using the Tamiya fine primer, so saying MS 1200 primer is better is really saying something, as for me the Tam stuff works great. Ill have to see if I can get a hold of some of the MS 1200 primer and give it a go. Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 cheers Brian i like the Tamya stuff, but once you use MS1200 you should see a difference - it really "sucks down" onto whatever detail you have, so you won't lose finely detailed parts etc, and it will show up (my, not yours!) blemishes in finishing. anyway, i masked the wheel wells using soggy toilet tissue - it was waaay easier than masking tape having primed the undersides, i took another look round seeing what would need some work... i added some liquid putty to the canopy join here: and to the slat correction work here: and finally to that stupid panel which Eduard give you in 3 but it should be 1!!! grrr!!! i'll leave this to dry a bit longer then sand and finish and prime once again, remembering this time to spray fully front on as well, as i kind of missed the wing leading edge cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akondo Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Looks great! As for masking the wheel wells I like to raid my kids 'Play-doh' It fills in nice and is easy to remove. Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 hi guys, been away on holiday to Prague with the wifey and then been busy in the vegetable patch BUT i finally got some stuff done! yesterday i sanded the excess gator glue from the canopy join which i forgot to wipe off first time round but then i got on to the good stuff... some pre-shading of the panel lines with Gunze black always like doing this as it is great airbrush practice! did some of the rivet lines as well with v thinned black - none of this will probably show through but like i said, it's all good! here is the sanded area...still not great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 (edited) then masked off for the splinter camo -all paints used are gunze first the rlm71, thinned 2 mr levelling thinner to 1 paint, if not a little bit more thinner... lots of quick passes, alomg with squiggling in the middle of some panels that was done this morning (the splinter stuff; the pre-shading was done last night) i got impatient at lunch so took the masking off - gunze paint is THE NUTS! at about 4pm this afternoon i thought what the hell and masked over the rlm71 so i could spray the rlm02 - i don't normally do it this way, but i was quite pleased with the results the 02 was probably too thin - took about a gazillion passes! Edited March 30, 2011 by nmayhew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 (edited) then about half an hour after spraying the 02 i took all the masking off - not a hint of paint lifting off anywhere finally starting to look a bit more like it should do after all these months!!! a quick repair to one of the PE radiator flaps which curiously snapped off both sides - never happened to me before - using gator glue then assembled the bomb... the PE fins are nice and were secured with some thin CA (i cringe when using that stuff), but i reckon i will be shopping at MDC for a nice one piece resin affair if this does not come out right mr surfacer 500 was dabbed on the seam, but the "ring" around the bomb is way too soft i think (i will check my refs, but sure this should be sharper) and that's me done for the evening cheers nick Edited March 30, 2011 by nmayhew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merlin Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Its great to see someone studying the E in such detail and reflecting that in a memorable model. Wish I had come across this thread earlier, I think its too late now looking at where you are for you to correct the mistake Eduard have made with the tail, but perhaps not so I'll mention it at the eleventh hour(though with your attention to detail I am surprised you havent spotted it) You need to turn the fin into an Emil rather than the F or G shape they have. No one I have yet seen building this kit has spotted this later tail type, yet its one of the immediate ways of telling a tail only photograph of a 109 apart, look at the fin leading edge running into the aerial post. Its the trademark shape of the emil, dead straight all the way to the aerial post, other trademarks are the engine cowlings, side intake,radiators,tailplane struts and spinner. These are the main differences. All kits of the emil are correct on the tail except for Eduard. I think Eduard have got the cowling 'nostrils' correct but have no examples to lok at as I type, so also check this area. the back edges form corners, the front edges are curved throughout, again an important look in that area. Don't go by the first emil flying in the States, its wrong, go by wartime pictures or the example at Hendon. Its important to capture the basic trademark features of an aircraft along with detail in my opinion. Hope this helps complete what will be an excellent model. Merlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Hi Merlin, Yup know all about the Gustav tail on Eduard's Emil but sadly fiddling around to correct it is not my bag or probably in my skill set This was, believe it or not, meant to be a quick and easy build! The slats are a must change imho though, because otherwise you simply cannot line up correctly sized balkenkreuze where they should go. Thanks for popping in! N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martinnfb Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Nick, I've been following your build with excitement.Excellent airbrush control and I really like the idea of utilizing a paper tissue as a mask. cheers Martin PS: Talking about Prague,How was it? :)I am planning a trip there in May. Just to see my folks and have some normal beer and normal food. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now