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  1. Eventually, I've got around to finishing my South African Air Force Spitfire Mk 9 LF. I built this quite some time ago, but couldn't source the correct propeller decals, so it languished in it's polystyrene box until Peter Castle @airscale produced his prop logo decals! Thanks Peter!! This is the Tamiya Spitfire Mk XVIe kit (I'm sure everyone knows how superb the kit is, so I won't go into that), but there were a few modifications I had to make to it in order to get it to the spec that it was in during it's time at the SAAF Museum at AFB Swartkop in Pretoria. This particular aircraft, manufactured in 1945, was flown by by brother-in-law, Maj. James "Jimmy Jet" Feuilherade (Ret) as it's display pilot during his tenure there (1999-2000). It was unfortunately written off during a display accident (15th April 2000), not long after he resigned and emigrated to Australia to take up a position as a flight instructor for BAE Systems. I know he mourned the loss of HIS "British girlfriend" (as my sister used to call it). This build is in homage to Jimmy Jet! Kit - 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire Mk XVIe AM- Barracuda Studios seat, cockpit upgrade (sidewalls, door, throttles, etc), wheels. Alleycat decals (didn't have my Silhouette when I built it, wished I had. The decals were probably old, had quite a few "moments" with them!) Master Barrels And quite a bit of cockpit modification (see the info from James below - all those mods were carried out)) Below are some excerpts from emails James sent me regarding this particular airframe, which helped tremendously with the build. I'm pretty sure he wouldn't mind me sharing some of it... She was actually a rare low back MkIX, powered by a Rolls Royce built Merlin 70 engine. But I hasten to add, there was no difference at all in the MkIX and the MkXVI airframes. The only reason they had the two different Mk numbers was the fact that the American Packard built Merlins were all built using American Imperial size threads bolts and studs. This basically made the Packard Merlins and the RR Merlins incompatible in terms of spares interchangeability. So to avoid huge logistics spares mix ups, they came up with designating all Packard built engine Spitfires, MkXVI’s. The gunsight was removed but I recall she had the rotatable throttle lever, which was normally used with the later gyro sight, so by twisting the throttle handle you could adjust range on the gunsight. An early version of HOTAS I guess! As I recall the seat only had a padded black leather cover, covering the backrest only. I flew it wearing a Harvard parachute which is the same as the WW 2 parachutes. So you sat on the parachute which was held in the seat bucket. The seat was made from Bakelite so was a reddish brown colour. The flare cartridge rack was removed from the front of the seat. The harness was a modern version with medium blue straps as I recall, I think as used on many Spits flying in the UK today. I think it had an olive green lap strap padding aswell. There was a slight difference to the panel in that the U/C indicator lights were moved to the lower RHS of the panel I think due to the newer radios and comms panel that was fitted in the top RHS of the panel. I have a poster with a small insert of the panel, will have to have a look!? Next to the seat below the pilot door was an electrical panel with battery switch lights etc. Things like the morse key and drop tank selector lever were removed. The canopy had the golf club arrangement, good description actually! When closed the canopy was opened from outside by pressing a small button on the tip of the windscreen canopy arch. It is small and very obvious. The bubble top canopy had an operating mechanism on the RHS of the cockpit, set up of covered chains going to the rear and a small winding handle. Flaps are interesting. They are spring loaded up, and extend open against the spring pressure by compressed air. Most Spitfires will slowly bleed compressed air from their systems. Brakes and rad flaps operated also by comp air. So even if you left the flaps down, after a while the pressure would drop and the springs would then snap them closed. However, you always retracted them on the ground after landing as if left down the restrict airflow through the radiators. That is why you hardly ever see a Spitfire pictured with flaps down. Flap selection is either up or down, to 64 deg. So never used for take- off, more of an air brake in a way. Taking off from the carriers for Malta, someone had the ingenious idea of clamping wedges of wood in the flaps against the return spring to hold them open at about 15 deg so as to get some increase in lift for the short take off run. Once airborne, the flaps were selected down then up, dropping the wedges away. The flap hinges pushed up two small panels near the inboard trailing edge of the wing, when flaps down, as an indicator. But not needed, she pitched noticeably nose down when you lowered the flaps in flight. The flaps are always up. It was my party trick if I still had pressure on the ground, and people were nearby I would lower the flaps (little silver lever up on the instrument panel), they would blow down. Then I would select them up, the air pressure blew off through a small orifice at the flap lever, causing a loud hissing noise, startling most people and the springs would then snap the flaps up. The brake differential valve was on the cockpit floor so to speak (no floor as such in the Spitfire) and as you moved the rudder pedals it would direct more air to the one wheel for differential braking. This also caused hissing noises. Of course only heard on ground engine off. As I recall the rad flaps would drop open. One of the tests after start signaled by ground crew, was to close and open the rad flaps to see they were working. Also to select ram air and filter air they would check to see the flap at the front of the carb intake was opening (ram) and closing (filtered). This whole intake assembly is beautifully modelled with the Tamiya Spitfire. The model itself is very lightly weathered. It was always kept in pristine condition by the museum ground crew, and I know for a fact that James used to "baby" it. James wrote an article for Warbird Alley about flying the Spitfire, the link is here if anyone fancies a read. He also sent me an article he had written regarding the SAAF Spitfire - his text is reproduced below. During my posting to the South African Air Force Museum, I had the extreme good fortune to fly the SAAF Museum Spitfire MkIX. This was a low back bubble top variant, normally referred to as a MkXVI. However the MkXVI was fitted with the Packard built Merlin 66 engine, whereas the SAAF Museum aircraft was fitted with a Merlin 70, technically making it a rare low back MkIX. It also had the clipped wing tips, which gave it a superb roll rate at low altitude and was common on Spitfires towards the end of the Second World War, where the main fighter role had become ground attack. The trade off was, a slight loss of turning performance at high altitude, and a slightly higher landing speed. Arguably it also detracted from the beautiful elliptical shape of the wing,. In his book “Fight for the Sky” Douglas Bader described the clipped wingtips as giving the Spitfire “a more workmanlike appearance”. What can one say about flying the iconic Spitfire? So many clichés exist. Such as “It becomes a part of you”, or “You just think of turning, and it does it”. “It feels so right, it becomes an extension of your arms and legs” is another. Phrases you will almost always hear repeated, when veteran Spitfire pilots are interviewed. Having flown the SAAF Museum MkIX, I can say the clichés are indeed true. It is a viceless and easy aircraft to fly. It does exactly what you want it to, the controls are light and powerful. It is docile in the stall and it does “feel right”, like a willing and faithful partner. In combat, it must have been superb. You can hold a max rate turn on the clearly felt light buffet all day, with just a gentle two fingered rearwards pressure on the stick. The rudder is extremely powerful. I once tried to see if I could hold the rudder against the force of full right rudder trim application, which is used for take off. However such is the rudder power, as the speed built to above 100 Kts after take off, despite holding a straight out locked leg, the left rudder pedal merely started to come back and pushing me up the back of the seat, never mind the 5 point harness! Resulting in me having to rapidly wind the trim off. So, no holding that trim force! Your only option, to pitch nose up, throttle back and try to maintain speed at or below 100, to try sort it out. As mentioned with the clipped tips, the roll rate is impressive. As part of my routine, I flew a 2-300Ft AGL level straight roll. In the Spitfire, this is easy, a ghost of an upwards pitch, check, then stick over unloading slightly as you roll to the inverted position. The aircraft rapidly rolls through 360 deg’, the nose remains beautifully balanced rolling about a point on the horizon, with no yaw divergence. The ailerons at air display speeds, are light and powerful. The only tricky area as such with flying the Spitfire is the after landing roll. With no steering on the tail wheel and no slipstream over the rudder throttled back on landing, a bit of dancing on the rudder is required to keep straight, as any sign of a swing needs to be stopped as with that narrow track landing gear, a ground loop could rapidly develop. The unique hand operated compressed air activated brakes work very well. The landing flaps are also air operated, only have two settings, up or down to 64 deg. A marked nose down pitch occurs, when the flaps deploy, pitching the nose down nicely, on base leg turns. A tight base leg needs to be flown, as turning finals too far out will cause the entire airfield to disappear behind that shapely, but long nose, hence the famous Spitfire curved approaches. Of course a big part of the Spitfire mystique is the brilliant 27 litre two stage supercharged V12 Merlin engine, as fitted to the MkIX. The sound of the Merlin in flight is unique and instantly recognised by any aircraft enthusiast worth his/her salt. At low power settings the engine is remarkably quiet. However, as the throttle is opened and plus boost settings are indicated, a wonderful growling noise starts coming up from the rudder pedal area. War emergency boost was in the +15-18 Ft Pounds area as I recall. For take off and most air display routines, it was rare to need much more than 6-8 Pounds boost. Without ammunition, we were technically light. She did have the 0.5 Browning’s and 20mm Cannon still in the wings, left in for Cof G purposes. There are a lot of moving parts in the Merlin, but for all that it is a remarkably reliable engine. When I first heard a Merlin start up, I remember being surprised by the engine sound. The engine does not have the deep “burble” a lot of the big radial aero engines have, as fitted to the Dakota and Harvard with which I was familiar. Rather the Merlin, has a notable high performance, race car type, crackle. At idle, the propeller reduction gear also makes a slight mechanical clattering. On song, the engine note changes to a harsh bellow, amazingly loud during ground runs. In flight, at low power settings, the engine is remarkably quiet. However as you open the throttle and start to get up to plus boost settings, a wonderful deep growling sound starts coming up from behind the rudder pedals. No doubt a lot of modern aircraft fly as well, if not better, than the Spitfire. However, considering the age of it’s design and the massive historic significance it represents, it is certainly one of the world’s iconic aircraft. Long may the precious few still airborne, fly. James Feuilherade Hope you all enjoy! Iain
  2. Now that I’ve got the ‘Flanker’ out of the way, and a clear bench that says “get something built”, I suppose I better tackle my next bout of insanity. It’s a really doozy as well. I have 4x F-16s that will have various colourful schemes applied, rather than a bunch of grey jets. All to be built inflight and posed on stands, I’m over gear down builds these days as I just can’t do the gear and bays justice. So here’s what I have….. 2 Tamiya F-16Cs kits. 2 Academy F-16I kits. And what I plan to do with them….. The ‘Zeus’ aircraft is a new build of a model I’d already built before, but the paint suffered some failure and cracked beyond any reasonable attempt at repair. So, I decided to do it from the ground up again. I’m saving the parts unique to the ‘Thunderbirds’ jet, and saving them for a future build when I get my head around creating a custom mask from the decals. This will take my Viper collection to 6 in total, when they’re finished. It goes without saying, that this one will be a slow burner once the plastic has been built. I won’t bore everyone with the building process, most here know all of that, and will know what an F-16 work in progress goes like. I don’t intend to go into any major conversion/backdating work for individual blocks, just using what’s available in the boxes to make them look like the jets they’re being based on. They’re all about the paint schemes for me. I’ll probably stop by with the occasional seat/pilot figure photo, production line progress shot, and go into the nuts and bolts of each individual paint scheme as it’s applied. That’s me sorted ‘til summer ‘22. Catch up with you all soon. Pete.
  3. Hey all. First work in progress on this site and first 1/32 aircraft. I've been wanting to build a Corsair for a long while, but 1/48 (my usual for aircraft) just wasn't big enough for the detail I'd like to add, and hopefully not screw up. I've been reading all the builds and RFI's on here that I can find and there are is some beautiful work here to compete against (). Hopefully I won't come off as a complete newb, but this will be my first WW2 aircraft, so hopefully you'll work with me. This won't be quick, since I have a day job ha! Link to some of my work for those of you that might not venture to non aircraft stuff..... So, Tamiya's kit to start, beautiful as usual from them. Vector Resin's intake flaps and engine upgrade parts. Barracuda cockpit stencils (I need better eyes for these!). Dana Bell's Birdcage Corsair book (and I've noticed Dana posts here, that's got to be helpful!. I'm hunting for HGW seatbelt's but so far, no luck on the suppliers I usually turn to. If anyone has a lead on where I can pick those up, I'd appreciate it. I'm also leaning towards using MRP paints for the first time, but I'm not really positive which colors I'll need. I'm going to plan on a two color bird, blue grey upper and light grey lower. Might go with Montex masks, or possible the HGW wet transfers...decisions to be made. Here are my selections for the main colors that I'll need to order. Please let me know if I'm totally wrong! Interior MRP 131 US Interior Green MRP 229 Dark Dull Green For the rest of the interior, I'll be using my existing supplies. Exterior MRP 130 Salmon Pink Primer for the cowling (sorta interior?) MRP 133 Blue Grey MRP 134 Light Grey And of course, mandatory pictures so I'm not boring everyone! The supplies, for now The work shop (everything else in cabinets) The overview And the other kits my wife said I should have built before buying the Corsair last week Hopefully I'll actually get some bench time tomorrow. Today has been "drill a 4 inch hole in your houses foundation day." Super not exciting. Thanks for looking, chime in and tell me where I'm off, nuts, or should go back to scifi lol Brett
  4. I know, I know! ANOTHER Tamy Corsair build! Forgive me for choosing a kit that is more than well represented on these boards but it is next on my list and I wanted to share my work here. I'm primarily a modeler of Messerschmitts and Focke-Wulfs so this is going to be new territory for me. Hopefully, I'll receive some help along the way and hopefully, the build journey will be of interest to at least some of you. Many of us grew up watching Baa Baa Black Sheep on TV and I was one of those kids. So I'm going to do one of Greg "Pappy" Boyington's many reputed mounts: Bu No. 17740 of VMF-214 based on Vella La Vella in 1943. The kit will be, of course, the magnificent Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1a kit. I've heard so many glowing reports of this masterpiece that I half expect the kit to magically build itself! I'll be adding some customary bits and pieces including the Barracuda cockpit stencils, Barracuda resin wheels to replace the kit's vinyl tires, HGW belts and the Vector resin cowling flaps. Markings will be masked using Montex masks. Fundekals produces a nice set of dekals for some of Boyington's Marine Corsairs and the informative PDF instructions will be used as a painting guide. Does anyone have an interest at looking at the sprues of this kit? I don't want to bore anyone but it is actually beneficial for me to present the sprues as a way to familiarize myself with the kit contents before I start. I'm not as familiar with the Corsair as I am with Luftwaffe fighters and I will be using past builds here as references, of which there should be many. I thought I was being cute when I picked up a True Details parachute to serve as a visual interest prop but there are at least 3 Corsair builds that have had the same bright idea as me. Takeaway?.. there will be nothing new here. Except what I bring to this build. And at this moment... it ain't much.
  5. Hi gents, I would like to share the progres on this great kit, I hope to finish it very soon and do a decent photo session, cheers! Antonio
  6. My rendition of Major Edward Giller's "The Millie G" is now complete. This was by far my most involved project with extra detailing for the engine, cockpit, landing gear bays and the MG bays. Here's a link to the build thread in the Works in Progress section: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/92956-132-tamiya-p-51d-15-na-mustang-the-millie-g/ Thanks for all the comments and suggestions during the build. In summary, here were the aftermarket additions to the kit: Barracuda cockpit upgrade Barracuda instrument panel Barracuda cockpit sidewalls HGW seatbelts Eduard guy bay kit (late) Barracuda P-51D tires Eduard P-51 exterior detail kit Barracuda decals + placards Eduard canopy masks Eduard engine detail kit The main paints used were Mr. Color lacquers. Now for the final photos. All of the main markings were painted except the stars and bars and tactical lettering, which were decals. The stencils from the Barracuda decals were used instead of the kit stencils. The ailerons and elevators were glued in place. The rudder and flaps are movable and do a pretty good job of staying in place. The Eduard gun bay doors is an excellent upgrade over the kit doors. The ammo belts are from the Tamiya kit. The engine covers are all removable and fit reasonably well with Tamiya's magnet system. The starboard panel just under the exhaust is a little fiddly. The weathering was a combination of oils, airbrushed Tamiya acrylics (heavily thinned) used for local effects and with sponge chipping and spatter templates. Colored pencils and pastels were also used for various effects. Mr. Color GX100 was used for gloss coats and GX114 for flat coats. Great stuff. I used Mr. Color C330 RAF Dark Green for the fuselage. And a slightly darker version for the nose checks and spinner green. The NMF paints are Mr. Color Super Metallics. The checks on the nose were painted. The drop tank fuel and pressure lines were created from 0.5mm wire. I kept the weathering on the drop tanks relatively light since often they were single use items. All of the fastener holes in the engine panel frames were drilled out. Light colored oils were used on the NMF surfaces to depict varying amounts of oxidation on the panels. Eduard's engine upgrade contains PE hose clamps for all of the main hoses and piping in the engine. They are a pain to attach and paint but look pretty snappy when complete. Also, the edges of the gunsight glass were painted Tamiya clear green to simulate the look of the thick glass plate. The aluminum paint on the wings was rendered with a combination of the Mr. Color Silver and light gray. Mr. Surfacer was used to fill the rivets and panel lines on the forward 40% of the wings. Grime and wear was depicted using a combination of Tamiya acrylics, oil paints and colored pencils. Some wear is down to the primer and some is down to the base metal. The primer toward the back of the wing is ZCY and the primer toward the front is dark gray putty colored, based on the construction process. The Eduard gun bay doors really add a lot compared to the kit doors. The Eduard doors come with a hinge at the bottom of the door for gluing it permanently in place. I wanted to be able to remove them, so I made tabs similar to the kit doors and glued them onto the Eduard doors. I also added a support rod made out of 0.3mm wire. I really like the iconic 343 FS, 55th FG markings. Chipping around the panels and doors was done with acrylic paints and colored pencils. The cockpit detail from the Barracuda kit is quite good (details are on the build thread). One note was that I changed the wiring from the radio box behind the pilot seat because the cable harness would interfere with the canopy support bracket. So I converted to a strand of speaker wire and painted it black. Thanks for following along! Comments and critiques are more than welcome. Thanks again.
  7. Hi Guys, A big parcel arrived today. My mate Alan has sent me a Tamiya Mossie kit to build for him. I've known him since the last century when we both sub-contacted to Honeywell on London's Canary Wharf project and he knows I'm a modelling nutcase. Now I've got my own Mossie but haven't really had a good look at it so when this one turned up I though I'd have a quick peek inside. What did I find? Short answer, super duper fantastic plastic. So I'm going to do a dual build for him and me. There's another parcel waiting for me to pick up tomorrow which has contents unknown, Alan won't tell me exactly what I've let myself in for, so it could be seatbelts, etch, resin. Knowing Alan, it's probably all that and the kitchen sink as well. In a week's time I should have the Trumpeter Mustang tamed then straight into the Mosquito build. I know he would prefer to have his model in RAF markings, the kit has RNZAF, RAAF and Polish (RAF) so a bit of research and maybe cut some masks on the Cameo 3. Regards, Bruce Crosby
  8. Hello all, hope everyone is well. This is my F-15E by Tamiya, its a nice kit to build....well its Tamiya isnt it The Cockpit got the Red Fox Studio upgrade, plus i added the Reskit (RSU32-0030) kit to upgrade the rear burners. Painted mainly with MRP 040 for the gunship and some low-high lights with other various greys. Thought i'd go for a Desert Storm #6 load out of 4xAIM-9L's 4xGBU-10's and fuel tanks. Hope you all like it.... All comments welcome
  9. When I joined my first airline many years ago, the old captains loved to say that the reading of Ernest K. Gann's "Fate is the Hunter" should be compulsory for new crew, so they could understand how airlines work. It struck me that maybe the same could be said if you want to build a model of a Zero, that this book should be compulsory... I have only just completed reading it, and it is a real eye opener. I knew about the Saburo Sakai story for many years though, because when I was growing up, Keith Ferris' book was one of my greatest sources of inspiration (I have owned this copy for a very long time). Keith did the cover painting for "Samurai!" and on reading his notes for the painting, I realised how important the underlying structure is in determining the way an aircraft looks. https://keithferrisart.com/product/wounded-samurai-original-painting-by-keith-ferris/ I hope to be able to show some of the unique surface detail of the Zero's aluminium skin on this model. It is interesting to note that Keith painted the aircraft in a very pale grey, as was the norm at the time. I get the impression that an awful lot of research has gone into understanding the grey paint of the early Zero's, and why it has come to be interpreted in so many different ways. There is a wealth of information on the internet and in some new publications that I would like to explore during this build. Here are some lovely books that I found by pure chance at a hobby shop in Johannesburg recently - heaven knows how they ended up in South Africa! This blurry photograph is what I have decided to be first prize for my theme: a grey land based A6M2, Nakajima built, with the white surround to the fuselage Hinomaru, and a Houkoku Gou. Tall order it would seem so far, but maybe? I made a start on the engine since it looked so tempting... only to discover however, that this is going to be a little more complicated than I imagined. Ryan Toews recently completed a tweak list for this kit https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=3339 , and I have printed it out to keep as a handy reference. It is lengthy - so there is clearly quite a lot to learn. Ryan points out the colours on the engine from a captured Sakae 12 metallurgical report. Maybe it was this engine? This should be fun. Sean
  10. Hi guys I now have the replacement canopy sets for the Tamiya kits available This set ended up being a little more tricky than first thought, but I am pleased with the results in the end, you now have three clear resin cast parts, two separate support frames and the canopy supporting cylinders in two alternative lengths for both the front and rear canopies, all supplied as 3D printed parts. Note use the frame part between front and rear canopy from the kit. https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/mcdonnell-douglas-phantom-replacement-canopy-set-for-tamiya-kits
  11. Well it's been a while since I've worked on a plane kit, much less a GB. I burned out on planes after some spectacular recent fails and switched to other subjects. Mostly armour and cars but it was time for a plane again. So I picked my favourite prop- the Corsair. A few years ago Fundekals released a set called Whistling Death. One of the planes is a USMC F4U-1A called Blue Baron that has an unusual camo scheme possibly due to weathering and touch-ups. In either case, that's my subject. I'll be using the Tamiya kit with some AM besides the decals but nothing to crazy as that's what did me in last time.
  12. So I've done navel gazing. I have four planes in my stash that might qualify for this. Namely, these kits are the Airfix 1/24 Hellcat (tempting), Trumpeters F4F Wildcat (I've had enough of Trumpeter for the moment, after last years builds), and two Tamiya Corsairs (F4U-1 and F4U-1a). I've had Tamiya's wonderful 1/32 kits sitting in my stash for years, together with some after market products for each kit, so it's about time I built them all. I've never built a Birdcage Corsair, so the choice was easy in the end. So here's my offering for this GB. I may add the Grey Matter engine accessory bay kit to this, and I have to make sure I have all the paints needed which I'll sort tomorrow, and then I'll begin. Can't wait to get started . Cheers, Michael
  13. Hello everyone, i decided to come back to the forum and try to picture a new WIP for this ugly but good looking airplane. This is what i am after, i will finish it as in the picture, bare metal. This was the one and only prototype built before they came out with a kind of SEA scheme, that i dont like by the way, and i dont want to do a WHAT IF airplane. I am using Tamiya's P-51D and the only resin kit available in the market for a 1/32 scale from RESIN 2 DETAIL. I am going to talk about the conversion set, there is no need to talk about the model itself, because we already know the quality of tamiyas models. this is what you get inside the box, plenty of pieces in white resin the detail in the pieces is good, some pieces came twisted, but nothing that some hot water can take care of. The nose section is a huge chunck or resin, very heavy, i will need to drill the center of it to remove some resin to lightened the nose section, te detail in the nose is basic as just panel lines, i will need to improve some of the details by adding some fasteners and some PE clamps for the engine cowling doors. One important thing is that the resin kit comes without any instructions at all, so you have to figure it out where to cut the model pieces , this guys promised a PDF file with instructions, but so far nothing, so i will have to use common sence on this build. Here you see in black what needs to be removed from the original pieces in order to make room for the new ones So lets start, as always , we start with the cockpit, the rear fuselage fuel tank needs to go away and make room for the new radio compartment here it is
  14. My next project. It's way too long since I built anything Tamiya, so here goes. Most of the after market I will be using on this. The Master gun barrels are actually left overs from the Spitfire XVI I built for the Colour My World Blue group build. I bought two of these and used the cannon stubs from both kits for that model, and I'll be using the main cannon barrels from one in this build and the other will be used in the Spitfire IX when I eventually build that. I've spent a little time today drilling out the lightening holes in some of the parts, but still have a ways to go with that having otherwise had a fairly busy day. I hope to get to some gluing and painting in the next couple of days. Cheers, Michael
  15. Aside from all of the prep work I've been doing, the following has taken a long time to evolve to get to this stage. Hopefully future efforts will move along more quickly. Otherwise I may miss the deadline. I reworked the right and left edges. The rod goes into the edgework of the instrument panel. I needed to trim away the sidewall structure under the rod so the rod would set properly when the sidewall was dryfitted to the floor/i.p. assembly. The insulation is from a solid core wire. I threaded .5mm wide insulation onto stripped wire taken from a hard drive parallel data cable. .010 or .015 solder wire. I needed to replace the outermost terminal with rod. I replaced the canopy retraction handle to complement the throttle handle. The throttle handle is a kit part and really stood out, detail wise. The canopy handle was molded into the sidewall. It looked flat compared to the throttle so I chiseled it off and made a new handle. I domed the end of a piece of rod to make the base, flattened the end of a rod with a plier and sanded the result round to get the handle base, and cut some rod for the handle. Wiring configuration is made up, although the rod that runs the length approximates the real deal. I needed to remove some of the bottom of the first and second structure. Home made springs and mounts. Springs aren't glued in place. This spring is a little short, oh well. I'll just glue it against the high tab. The spring is compressed. Here you can almost see how the rods would go thru the side openings I made in the panel. Without removing some sidewall structure the rod configuration wouldn't work. I had to weigh one effect against the other. More work, but I chose this effect. Rudder pedal linkage is good, with the spring and everything, but the wire connection isn't accurate. This was an easier connection to make. It is pinned with .010 rod so it moves around. Same thing here concerning removal of the first two structure bottoms. I wanted to see if the rudder pedal junk would look effective. Not such a hot shot. I don't know what those two rods are on the left, but they are in every photo I have of that area. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
  16. Hello everyone, I hope you all are keeping safe. I've just completed the 1/32 Tamiya F16CJ and thought I'd share a few pictures of it, i swapped the static dischargers for the superb Master set (AM-32-084) as the kit parts looked a bit too chunky, MasterCasters Soft FOD inserts, other than that...its out of the kit box. All comments welcome....stay safe folks!
  17. Right then, I've had this kit for a few years - probably 20 - and was purchased second hand. I bought my first Tamiya Tomcat when it was released back in 1981, and it cost the not insignificant sum of 460 Norwegian Kroner. That is the equivalent of around 1500 NOK today, or around £135 which is the retail price for the updated issue in the UK today. Back then, I started the kit on Christmas eve and finished it in March, in VF-84 markings that came with the kit. When I bought this kit second hand, I did it with the intention of seeing what a few decades of experience and the help of aftermarket that was not available back in 1981 would do. I have started gluing some parts together and rescribing, so it should be below the 25% ceiling...? Decals wise, I have the Zotz decals that include VF-21 and VF-111, and while I love both options, I think VF-21 gets the nod simply because I love the yellow and black colour combination and the black trim on the nose of the early VF-21 scheme. One of the issues with the kit is the way the exhaust fairings are done. They should be circular in crossection, but Tamiya simplified the shape into more of a U-shape. To correct this I sawed off sections off a cheap and started second kit I had bought from under the tables at the Milton Keynes model show a few years ago. Sections were then cut off the exhaust fairings from the lower and some part of the upper as well as creating the gaps between exhaust fairings and beaver tail as featured in Tamiya's superlative 1:48th scale kit. The other reason for buying that started kit was to use the afterburners to extend the too short kit ones, but then Aires released their superb resin ones. Still, that gave me the opportunity to play with another forward fuselage to try and make a reasonable representation with the 7-vent mid-breech panel. That will not be required for this build however. The forward fuselage has had the "armour plating" sanded off and panel lines restored. The cockpit tubs have their pouring stubs cut off and can fit to the top of the nose gear well. And that's where it's at. Hoping to be able to finish this one as an in flight model as I can't face detailing those wheel wells. At some point I will need to make the additional ECM antennas under the gloves and the beaver tail Jens
  18. Hello everyone! Hope you're all doing well and staying healthy in these challenging times. While I have to work at home (and I'm extremely grateful I still have a job ) I'm also taking the opportunity to work on a new project. This time I chose Tamiya's 1/32 scale F-4EJ model which I plan to build as a Black Panthers squadron bird. These aircraft wear the same attractive sea camouflage as their successors, the Mitsubishi F-2. Unfortunately, finding enough reference pics has been a challenge so fare with very few available online. I did find multiple pics of the RF-4EJ wearing the same camo which I plan to use, too. The overall kit quality is good but definitely not at par with Tamiya's recent releases such as the Corsair or Mosquito. I find engineering to be crude in some places including the engine area and horizontal stabilisers while the cockpit detail is limited. I plan to use the following aftermarket sets: Quickboost resin MB Mk7 seats Eduard resin exhaust cans and exterior PE set DEF Models FOD covers DXM Decals The rest of the details will be made from scratch using lead wire, plasticard and metal rods.
  19. Greetings everyone! I have been around the site for quite some time following posts and WIPs so I thought it was about time for my first large project. The following WIP will be my first in the 32nd scale and the first one in Large Scale Planes! As the title shows I will be trying my luck on an F-14B, based on the Tamiya 1:32 kit. Initially I was thinking of representing aircraft 105 from VF-41 with full low visibility colors however I changed my mind during the summer after seeing some wonderful shots of an F-14B 1:32 scale with the VF-102 Diamondbacks decals form Fightertown Decals. The decal set was particularly difficult to track, as it is out of print, however I managed to find a copy in a Japanese online store and in perfect condition no less. The aircraft that will be represented, flew with Diamondbacks during the OEF campaign in Afganistan in 2002. I will be using the 2003 version of the Tamiya kit which includes some updates in comparison to the 1994 and the 1980 versions. Also the following after market sets will be used accordingly: -Teknics ΤΚ32012 F-14B Tomcat/Bombcat Cockpit Superset -Teknics TK32013 F-14B Airframe conversion set -GRU-7(A) ejection seats from Avionix cockpit set BLC32039 -Aires 2099 F-14B/D Tomcat exhaust nozzles -If it is possible to get my hands on the exhaust nozzles form the 1:32 Tamiya F-16 they will be used instead -Hadmodels 432003 F-14B/D Upgrade photoetched part set -Crossdelta CD32002 F-14 Step area & Stiffeners -Master Model AM-32-031 F-14 Alfa Probe & Angle Of Attack probe -True Details TDP32202 1/32 F-14D Tomcat Resin Wheel Set (Late) -Eduard 32144 F-14A Tomcat exterior photoetched part set -Fightertown Decals 32009 VF-102 F-14B "Diamondbacks" OEF -Armament from the kit or Tamiya's F-16 The construction began with some modifications to the airframe around the cockpit area and the nose. Tamiya's mold in general includes not only raised lines but some panels as well. Initially I thought it was a mistake however it seems that very early Tomcats did have those. I could not find photos form both sides however at least on the right it seems that the panel was raised for some reason. In later photos these areas are not raised, so they were sanded down. One thing that is weird is how Tamiya chose to represent the refueling panel. In the kit it is neither closed nor open so since I would not doing it open it was covered with epoxy putty and sanded down while afterwards the panel lines were rescribed. Next, a characteristic electronics panel behind the cockpit was rescribed adding a bit of detail. An area on the Tamiya kit that can be improved are the NACA vents. The kit provides the correct gun vents for a late Tomcat however they are provided as one piece with the airframe. Using a rotary tool the plastic behind each vent was removed, the thickness of the leading edges was reduced and Evergreen plasticard was used to restore them. Eduard's PE was used for the gun muzzle blast fairing. HAD models PE set provides a replacement for the grills beneath the aircraft's ladder so the kit's detail was removed using a rotary tool. After the PE was in place, the area was rescribed and epoxy putty was used to restore the raised detail. The gun gas exhausts are provided in a slightly wrong position by Tamiya and because HAD models provided PE parts for the re-enforcement plates around them I decided to change their position. The old exhausts were filled with CA and sanded down while on the new positions the kit's plastic was thinned from the inside and new ones were opened accordingly. Initially the PE parts for the re-enforcements were used however I could not get them to glue properly in place so off they went! Two new pieces were created by using Evergreen plasticard and glued in place. Also HAD provides two pieces for the grills that are found inside them which were used. Eduard's set provides some nice details for the ladder in order to be represented in open position so it was the next area I started working on. Unfortunately Eduard provides a simple improvement to the kit's piece so a few additions were deemed necessary to be included. I worked based on photos of the real aircraft while Kai Wolter's exceptional F-14 build has been of great assistance and inspiration as well. Eduard's guide was not followed. Instead the two main ladder parts (1 and 2 ) were used to sandwich a piece of Evergreen in order to increase the thickness of the ladder while the PE steps (parts 73) were not used. Evergreen was used to create the two steps and to add the various small details. Parts 12 and 13 were used to create the handle mechanism. So ... that's about it for this time. Thanks for your interest! Andreas
  20. Hi everyone, It's been a while since I did a quick and easy built.... had that one on the back burner, like many other models I have somewhere in my dark cave ... .. Always liked those colors on a Phantom, very different, the third one in particular... And going to use Techmod decal for it. My load should be some Cutting Edge CBU-10.... I'll put some up to date picture this week-end. Thanks for watching, Dan.
  21. Thought I'd join the Tamiya Kitty-Klub on LSP with the latest finish, and Tamiya Tomcat number 2. Used the Quickboost seven-hole mid-breech panel that just required a little fettling to fit, but nothing serious provided you go carefully on the cuts. The temperature probe on the port side in front of the windscreen is from the kit as it is on the doubled up sprue. Decals are from Furball and were a little disappointing. First of all, the shade of blue is wrong - it is far too dark, and it should be more like True Blue, and the stripes on top of the tailfins is about 1 mm too short to cover the chord. Sadly, the VF-32 tail markings are also 1 mm too short in chord, and that will be a greater challenge to solve. My Silhouette Portait cutter made short work of cutting masks for the forward fuselage stripes as well as cutting the thin strips for the tailfins to a consistent width. The base decoration is a section of Coastal Kits sea blur base. And then my camera ran out of juice... Tomcat number 3 in progress:) Jens
  22. I recently finished a long build of Su-25 (long as in the meantime model landed in the box couple of times) and was wondering what next. I took me couple of days to decide and take out model which I got very long time ago. It was my second purchase of 1:32 birds, I gave around 50 bucks for it, so it was rather a bargain. So here it is my F-16C/CJ Block 50 from Tamiya. Apart from model itself, I'm planning to use: - Aires Cockpit Set - Aires Wheel Bay - Aires Exhaust nozzles - Wheelliant Wheels - M61 gun from Master - CMK intake (not sure about this one) - Eduard Canopy Masks - Master Piot and AoA - Master Static Discharges - ResKit BRU-57 (probably) Additionally I have some - Wolfpack's JDAMs - Wolfpack's JSOWs - Eduard's B and C AMRAAMs - Eduard's Sidewinders I would like to do an Aggressor scheme but they rarely are full loaded, so I have problem here - will se later. Due to COVID-19 I'm still waiting for some of above, so it will be long build. As of now, I've started with fuel tanks, HARMs and pylons: . . And as I will have aftermarket exhaust I will put engine on service cart. . Glued engine: . Now I will add some wiring to engine.
  23. I don’t normally start kits while I have others on the go, but my revell Mustang has an enamel gloss black base coat curing, slowly. I need to fill the few days void. In a couple of other threads, I reference my awesome wife who lets me spend money on models if we have a bit spare. We were flicking through some pictures of “pretty” (her term) F-16’s. Not being able to tie it down to a single favourite, she took the unprecedented step of buying these... The first, as you can see will be adorned in the truly spectacular ‘Zeus’ scheme from the HAF. The second one, is equally spectacular. The 18th Aggressor Squadron from Eielson AFB. Alaska provide me with one of the coolest splinter schemes I’ve seen. Now you can imagine my quandary, and why Mrs Stokey Pete said “why not build them both then?” They'll be pretty much OOB builds, with exception of the CFT tanks and parabrake parts (generously donated by @Kagemusha) for the Greek jet. I’m allowing a little artistic licence with regard the particular blocks and bits that don’t come with the kits. Having spent handsomely already, I didn’t want to push my luck by asking for intake and exhaust conversions. Stay tuned for the opening salvos once I’ve worked out my build sequences. Pic’s grabbed from Pinterest, no copyright information to allow credits to photographers.
  24. Just got this email if anyone's interested in the subject kit. $99 and free shipping is almost a steal! I couldn't help it, I snagged one as soon as I saw the email in my inbox. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/132-aircraft/north-american-p-51dk-mustang/pacific-theater/ They also have the Spitfire Mk. VIII and XVIe on sale for the same price. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/132-aircraft/supermarine-spitfire-mkviii/none/ https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/132-aircraft/supermarine-spitfire-mkxvie/none/ Not sure if the free shipping applies to outside the Continental US or not but I'd imagine not. Only way to find out is to ask.
  25. Since I finished my last Tamiya Viper back in 2017 I have wanted to build a more recent Block, and around that time I picked up the Model Maker stencil set for a Polish Block 52 with markings for the 2015 Tiger Meet. Now the time is right--thanks Patrick! I will be converting the Tamiya Block 50 to the Block 52 version. Many of you know much more than I do about the Viper (please keep me honest), but here is what I will need to do: 1. Pratt and Whitney 229 engine (I have the set from the Tamiya Thunderbirds release, and I am ordering a decal set for the carbon fiber petals). 2. This engine used the NSI (small mouth) inlet (I am using the GT Resin conversion). 3. The Block 52 had a larger nose wheel (I will be using a main wheel from the 1/48 UH-60, per Peter Fleischmann's Block 52 build). 4. Extended parabrake (I will either be able to purchase a PWMP set or scratchbuild). I first checked out the resin inlet from GT Resin, and I was impressed with the detail and fit. Next, on to the cockpit. Feel free to follow along! Cheers, Tom
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