PlamoSnep

I always feel like I'm fighting to have the needle in the right spot (unlike with my previous Iwata) and it doesn't really seem that easy to clean. Where I'm at, I'm stuck ordering parts with whatever airbrush I get.

I use Tamiya Finish polish, the GodHand sanding Kamiyasu set that goes up to #10000 (they have several in various sizes and thicknesses), and just standard polishing cloths. The final Novus polish (#1) has silicone in it so you can't apply anything over it afterwards.

Is TruColor an enamel or a lacquer? How long does it take to cure?

I'll have to pick up both Takom's and Meng's kit; totallly for comparison and not because I want two kits. I hope someone will make JGSDF decals for them.

The CAD renderings look so good! Would love to build one of these with a light AFV/APC strapped under with.

Is this where we post our unexpected hopes and dreams for new Tamiya kits? Tamiya-san, if you're reading this: 1/32 P-38J 1/32 P-47D 1/32 P-51B 1/32 Ki-61 1/48 RF-4EJ/F-4EJ 1/48 F-35B/C 1/20 Red Bull RB18 Unreleastic wishes aside, I look forward to whatever Tamiya comes out with. I dabble in a llittle bit of everything and I happily bought their new F-35A, Nissan Z, Comet, and Hellcat.

Tamiya 1/32 P-47D and P-38J.

I know this topic comes up a lot, but with so many new airbrushes coming out constantly I thought I would make a new topic. I am currently seeking recommendations for 2 airbrushes (or a convertable grip one if one such exists.) I'd like to find airbrushes that are easy to clean and hard to mess up when setting the needle in place. I'd prefer to stay around $100. 1) I'm wanting an airbrush with a pistol grip trigger for general purpose priming and painting. (I currently have a Grex Tritium, but it's given me nothing but problems.) 2) I'm wanting a standard thumb trigger airbrush for smaller detail painting (but nothing too small (probably no smaller than 0.3mm) or crazy as I won't be painting squiggly lines, smoke rings, or anything like that.)

I prefer Mercury Adhesives CA, because they have a metal pin in the cap that keeps them sealed and prevents the cap from getting cemented on. I always buy the smallest bottles I can as CA usually only has a shelf life of about a year.

I like to spray clear gloss of a different type of paint other than the top coat over paint masks so that if any paint does bleed under the mask it can be removed or painted over with the same clear gloss.

No matter what polish you want to use, these are a godsend to polish up clear plastic and you can use polish with them at the same time. https://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Thickness-Types-10000-GH-KS3-KB/dp/B07YGBDFDF I still like to always follow up with a clear acrylic or lacquer after polishing.

For small areas, Tamiya Lacquers. Mr. Metal Color, Gaia Metallics, and E7 Metallics. Note that these are all lacquers so you may need their proprietary thinner/retarder if you plan on brushing any larger surfacers. I have never tried hand brushing them on an entire plane, but I have seen it done by some crazy, talented Japanese modelers.

I do a first cut against the casting block away from the part and then carefully trim against the part using a very fine tooth saw and and GodHand nippers.

Would love to build one of these in a shiny NMF.

"Samurai!" by Saburo Sakai

Got around to cleaning and organizing my work area. The bench will be completely covered after I start something.

I'll second the nose art/shark mouth group build. WWI group build so I have an excuse to build one of my WNW kits. Fighter bomber group build. Non-British forces in the RAF/FAA: pilots from countries like Poland, New Zealand, Canada, etc.

I've used Mr Primer Surfacer with no issues. I always make sure to wash resin with concentrated dish soap and hot water and do a final rinse with diluted alcohol.

Picked up Revell's C-54D. Anyone know any good references for the cockpit and interior colors? The instructions say interior green for the cockpit and the interior areas. The few pictures I can find of cockpits show a gray color. Not sure if they are original paint or repaints. The landing gear bays and other areas do appear to be interior green on most photos.

This would appear to be a top opening G canopy?

Was looking for some markings for the Tamiya P-38 and found an interesting one in Bat Out of Hell. I've noticed that two different companies make decals for it, however, they interpret the plane differently. Xtradecals have the plane as an F version with yellow spinners and tips: https://www.hyperscale.com/images/x48214reviewbg_4.jpg Eduard have the plane as a G with red spinners and wingtips: https://www.sbmpics.com/sbmimages5/edud48047c.jpg I'm guessing the color interpretation is based on B&W photos and up for debate, but does anyone know if the plane was an F or a G? Or were there more than one Bat Out of Hell? There's a thread on Hyperscale debating the colors and one post stating that there were both an F and a G version, but I'd like to get a second opinion as there are differences in construction between the F and G. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/hyperscale/viewtopic.php?p=2703255#p2703255 Edit: Eduard also released decals for the version with yellow in their Early Lightnings kit, but still list it as a G.

I really wish someone would make decals of Seid's and McIntosh's Mosquito in 1/32.

I would love for Tamiya to make any variant of P-38 in 1/32

Amazing work! What paint colors did you use for the camo?

My wallet isn't. Probably my favorite plane from WWII.