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  1. Looking very nice. I recently built the old Matchbox Tiger Moth and I am impressed with the similarities in the two aircraft. And the engine for the Bucker looks an awful lot like the Gypsy Major engine in the tiger moth. Kit looks great and your craftsmanship ship is stupendous overall! Zach
  2. A DR 1 would be cool but if WNW wanted to keep it somewhat esoteric as they sometimes (read often) do then perhaps a Halberstadt D II? The baron flew this type as well and it has had few kits in any scale much less large scale. I'd be game for one. Or maybe they break their own rules of avoiding already kitted subjects and offer us a Albatros D III. Long shot I know abd sure the Roden kit is serviceable but I would surely jump at a WNW Alb D III. Just spitballing with these as they were others mounts Richthofen used. Zach
  3. ZachP319


    I think for those of us who are into WNW kits, we've all missed at least one release we just had to have. For me it was the Re8 but hey that's life. And I ha e been less enthused about some of their subjects, like the forth coming Junkers d1 and frankly when they opened everything by releasing the J1 I was less than excited. It is what it is and I wish they would kit certain things over others but I think more than anything else they have proved there is a market for these kits and that is something others will take advantage of. Look at Copper State emerging in a similar vein recently? Good bad or indifferent as you may feel towards WNW, quirky as they are, they have been great for the hobby IMHO. Zach
  4. Ok so question about how to go about weathering lozenge Decals. Thinking of doing the Late AEG by WNW and I like to show some weathering in my builds. How does one fade these? Do they reliably take a wash? How durable are they once applied? Just looking for thoughts and ideas. I know Aviattic offers faded lozenge but that is merely a starting point so hence my inquiry. Thanks Zach
  5. I am very excited about this one. I just started the italeri kit (and the shelves it along with all the aftermarket I bought for it). Lol Would love to see CSM take off as a competitor to WNW and focusing on French and maybe AH subjects would offer some great diversity. If they scale up their 1/48 Caudron G.4. I am so buying one. Also would love to see a SPAD Sa.2 just because they are whacky and cool. Zach
  6. I'll play this year: WW1 JN-4 Jenny (N9N) Spad XIII Caudron G4 or G3 RAF Be 2 Bristol Scout Sopwith Tabloid I won't hold my breath though... Zach
  7. I know I want a Jenny. I know it will not be a Jenny. Whatever it is will be fun and worth considering. Branching out to other combatants would be could but there are plenty of fun options still available in their typical wheelhouse too. I am willing to be surprised (like we had another choice 😂) Zach
  8. Oh the I-153 and Bu-131 will need to happen I love the Bucker 131 and 133 and I am not all that copacetic with the Planet Models kits so this should be awesome. I too would like a I-15 (and maybe an I-5, I-3 and R-4 but who am I to beg.....pretty please [especially the I-3] ) Zach
  9. Ok in my heart of hearts I want it to be a JN 4 Jenny but my rational sides hopes for the following more probable subjects: RAF Be.2c/e Sopwith Strutter AW FK.8 Because the Austrians need some love! OEFAG Alb III Fokker D VII MAG built Albatross C III Hanriot HD-1 SPAD 2A2/4, VIi or XIII Ok I will stop wishing 🙂 Zach
  10. I'll tag along for this one. I have this kit shelf of doomed as I lost a cabane strut but overall its a good kit. Just take your time and you'll get through each challenge. For the woodgrain I suggest doing some googling and then just practice on some scrap plastic. It's not too hard. Generally I use tamiya flat flesh as a base coat and then brush on raw sienna or burnt sienna oil paints (or a combination depending on the effect I want). Once the area is covered take a sponge and wet it with odorless thinner (for oil paints) and then dab it so its not too wet. Rake the sponge in the direction you want the grain to go. This will pull some of the oil paint off and let the base come through a little. Then take a wide flat brush dipped in the thinner and run it through the paint and you will see grain like texture start to form. If you take too much oil paint off just apply it again. It's pretty forgiving as a medium. I also use a fan brush to make wavy patterns int he grain and you can use darker oils to show knots in the wood but strictly speaking through this is pleasing to the eye it is over scale. When all that is done and dry, I coat with Tamiya clear yellow or clear orange depending on how deep and rich I want the wood to look. This also protects the more fragile oil paints from handling. In all honestly of the "challenging" finishes I like doing wood grain over the others. I feel like my NMF finishes are much more challenging to get "right" thank wood grain even though the application techniques are technically simpler. Zach
  11. Work progresses on the camel. Little more work done on the Bentley: Used a number of washes to make this look like it's had some hours on the engine. I deviated from the WNW painting instructions a bit as it was just a tonal crush of silver so I added some blacks grays and rusts to give it some interest in the cowling. Iginition wiring was done using beading wire which I bought at Michael's for such purposes. As it comes off the spool it's a little too stiff to be truly useful or lifelike but I find that if I anneal it in a tea light it is quite malleable and in this case the annealing process gave the wire a nice finish so I did not need to paint it. I have decided to use this scheme: I realized I have a little theme going within my biplane collection of immediate post war service and I think it will be interesting. I have Soviet AF decals for the My Nie 17, Irish for the Bristol, RAF for the Ninak, Freikorps for the Roland D VIb and Yugoslav for the HPH Aviatik Berg D1. So a Polish Camel fits right in. I could probably find something I have actually made more progress than the engine but I am a little frustrated. I joined the fuselage halves but something must have been misaligned because they bottom seem was a real PIA to close up and I actually needed a little filler. Leave it to me to need filler on a WNW kit. The bottom wing was a very snug fit but I got it seated properly. This was difficult as there very little you can put pressure on to get it seated. I got it set but in the process one of my internal rigging lines came loose and I haven't a prayer of getting at it to fix it. I feel like this is grounds for being put in Wingnut Jail. Nothing seemed to be misaligned but not matter what i did this was a tough seem. Here is a shot of the interior in the fuselage here the top deck is just dry fit onto the fuselage assembly Zach
  12. Yes I too am on the quest for a reasonable Re8 - sigh. Zach
  13. Ooh mine just arrived too. Looking forward to this build. I am planning to option C as one of the pilots was from Bridgeport CT and I currently reside here in sunny eastern Connecticut 😎 Can't wait to see your progress. Zach
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