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Wegener

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About Wegener

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    Swindon, UK

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  1. Your best bet might be to get hold of an aftermarket sheet for a smaller scale kit and use that to create masks or even your own home-made decals. Almark makes some in 1/48, for example, which I found with a very quick search for '892 Squadron decals'. You might not even need to acquire the decals if you can find an adequately high resolution image of a suitable sheet.
  2. In my experience as a financial planner, in the UK at least income protection cover pays out if you are unable to work for a prolonged period due to illness or injury. There are various definitions, the best being ‘unable to follow your own occupation’, but payments start after a deferred period of typically four to 52 weeks, which you select when you apply. They then continue to an age that you specify. Obviously the cost for a scaffolder with a four-week deferred period is higher than for an actuary with a 52-week one. The idea of the deferred period is that you select it based on how long your employer will pay and how long you can subsist on your other resources. Termination age (for us anyway) is usually based on when your resources are likely to make paid work an option rather than a necessity. Alternatively use whenever your pension scheme age is. It is not the same as the short term payment protection insurance which was mostly rubbish but last I heard, only around 10% of eligible people had IP cover so it’s not that well known. Mind you, the application forms are ridiculously long. I’m not looking for business by the way; just posting this for information. Sorry to distract anyone from the original subject matter!
  3. Great progress so far. Those missile fins sound like a job for the plotter, which I assume is your plan.
  4. I realised after completely dismantling mine that it was distinctly more effective to withdraw the needle from the front. I know all the guidance says to take it out of the back but that just tracked paint into the seal and when I reinserted it, it picked it up again. I was amazed at the amount of paint I cleaned off the needle after that, even after careful cleaning previously. Lacquer thinner is fine for Gunze but be careful if you use water-based acrylics as it can turn some into horrible gunge. Test first!
  5. Dragon opted to mould ‘CONTINENTAU’ on its AFV tyres, on the basis that we could trim off the vertical of the U to get an L. Much easier than trying to turn an O at the beginning into a C!
  6. I did hear that some expected to shift it on EBay but given the cost of shipping the stuff and the low value, it’s not a business model in which I’d invest.
  7. It appears to be made by/for Silhouette, going by the labelling on the package. Called the 'Light hold 8 inch cutting mat'. Mine came from Amazon.
  8. Hi Jens That was exactly my query but I concluded after some investigation that the only difference is that the Cameo can accommodate a wider sheet size. Given my requirements, the Portrait's 8" width was adequate for me. I found mine (new and unused) for under £200 on Ebay in the end. If you plan to use it to cut styrene (up to 0.25mm is apparently fine but above that it will score it) too, I was recommended to get a spare blade just for that and also to get a low tack mat, as the one supplied is pretty sticky.
  9. Very nicely done. About the laminated prop, wouldn’t the shape of the blade cause the laminations to make a different pattern where they ‘outcrop’ (to use a geological term) on the sloping surface? If the laminations are perpendicular to the drive shaft axis, rather than parallel to it, I’d expect some curves on the blade faces as the surface crosses the laminations at an angle. From the side, they would be straight lines though. Does that make sense? I’m not saying it’s easy to do, quite the opposite, by the way!
  10. It implies a high level of detail being possible but not that manufacturers can or do provide it, particularly with older kits. The cost of tooling a large kit is obviously greater than for a small one so including all those possible details can price it out of the target market. Plus there are always some who are happy to take a less detailed kit and add to it, whether from aftermarket suppliers or scratch. Your stuff does look rather excellent though, so I’m sure it would go down well here.
  11. Wolf, I spent a while wondering if the FAA aircraft had Sutton harnesses (I’m planning a Corsair II from the Op Tungsten period) but read somewhere (here probably) of an account by a pilot with the BPF who specifically mentioned not having one in a Corsair he flew and from which he had to escape in a hurry. For now I’m opting for the US harness but happy to hear of any evidence either way for the non-BPF examples. I’m also interested in dimensions for the fuselage vents - the one in the FAA musem was too far from the barrier to reach. To be fair, that was probably the intention though!
  12. Airfix multipose sets can often be found (in the UK at least) pretty cheaply. Decently sculpted and there were seven sets as I recall, including an 8th Army set in shorts. The Japanese set may not be that useful to you but the two US sets (US Marines and US Army) were wearing high leg boots which could be modified to jungle boots. Hornet does a few sets of 1/32 heads to supplement the rest of the range, which is mostly 1/35. Roger does ship to the US but I’m sure there was a US distributor a few years ago, out in the Colorado area as I recall. You might also look at Reedoak for mechanic types.
  13. Looks excellent. As you described it as a G-14 but Barracuda calls it a G-6, what makes it a G-14? I believe (per Prien & Rodeike) they aren’t necessarily any different at all in appearance, particularly the early G-14s. I’d be happy if any of mine turned out like that.
  14. Rather helpfully for those who might wish to scratchbuild the valves, Taurus’s website has PDF instructions that show the open/closed configuration. Very laudable on their part as I’d have done them all the same (or at least as much so as I could manage).
  15. Although I have no personal experience, I have read articles in which they have been praised for the fact that they can be bent to compensate for alignment errors in undercarriage geometry. This seems to me a strange basis for regarding a malleable version of a necessarily rigid component as a good thing but I have read it several times. Personally I’d be a bit wary of a load-bearing part that could be bent that easily so the accounts of white metal parts being weaker than plastic ones aren’t a huge surprise to me.
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