Juggernut
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Posts posted by Juggernut
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The HK B-17's have removable wings (if you don't glue them on) and also come with a wall mount....
- ghatherly and Thunderbolt
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Nope, not a chance.... If you want a correct nose, you'll have to do it yourself. Me, I've got the 17E/F kit and while I realize the nose is misshapen, I'm not into doing the work to correct it as the nose will just be the tip of the iceberg.
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So, with my interest picqued in this dambuster variant, what are the extant omissions/errors that could/may be transferred from the current offering of the HK Lancaster to the Dambuster version? Not knowing a lot about the Lancaster, I had heard in passing that the downlocks for the main gear are molded on, or something of the sort. Not looking for a bash-fest here, just things that one might need to look out for (to correct as it were) from the existing kit, to this release.
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1 hour ago, Archer Fine Transfers said:
As an ex airframe repairman stressed skin is a reality, but the problem I have with it on kits is that it's too consistent and in places it should not be, like the leading edges of the new 1/24 F6F that someone is releasing. In order to get that much distortion in a leading edge it would have to be riveted by toddlers.
But, that's just my opinion.
LOL! A toddler or someone with a 6X rivet gun, AD4 rivets, and no control....
- Rick Griewski, Woody V and D.B. Andrus
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You're close but that's a 269C or C-1. The ventral fin shape is a dead giveaway.
I used to work for Schweizer (aka Sikorsky Global Helicopters) and was on the 269D series helicopter production line. The 269C's and C-1's were built right across the isle. I also used to work as a tech-rep for SGH until they closed the plant in Horseheads, NY and moved it all to Coatesville, PA. They still can't build the 269D's even though they've got standing orders for them...there's too much "tribal knowledge" that was involved in building the damned thing.
I've even helped do an annual inspection on one of the earlier 269C's...it needed a lot of help but we got her back to the owner on time... He wasn't happy with the bill but that's what neglect and shoddy maintenance will get you. We prototyped the airframe for the X-2 technology demonstrator and my DNA is in that too...sitting in the Udvar-Hazey NASM facility.
Those that have old 269 series helicopters are in for a shock (if they haven't had it already). Sikorsky destroyed all the tooling used to make all the parts for those old TH-55's, 269A's, and B's. What really sucks is that when those rotor blades (tail and main) time out, there's no new replacements available. You'll either have to get used but serviceable blades or your 269 helicopter becomes an expensive boat-anchor. I haven't yet heard of anyone producing replacement blades for these egg-beaters. I even think Sikorsky lowered the life-limit on the main rotor drive shaft....those may still be available for the old 269's but they're not interchangeable with the 269C's and C-1's...
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Unless you've got a photo of the seat in the specific aircraft, it's anyone's guess as to which seat was used. That said and to the best of my knowledge, the earlier the D block the greater the chance it will have a seat like the 51B.... not any sort of guarantee though. Use what you want, nobody will be able to prove you wrong unless they have a photo of your specific aircraft.
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Yes, it is but if I'm not mistaken (I haven't researched any differences between the two cockpits [bubbletop vs. razorback]), I think you might only need to change the aft bulkhead-armor plate...and use the corrugated floor of course. That and NO INTERIOR GREEN!
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Nice... I'll be in for two when they're available. Now, can you create the R-2800C prop reduction gearcase indicative of the P-47M with the correct magneto/distributor setup for the R-2800 C series engine (along with your prop, necessary for those who want to model a P-47M but only have the P-47D kit)? For that matter, what about a correct R-2800 B series prop reduction gearcase with the correct GE "turtleback" ignition system that would correct the abomination Hasegawa provides in their P-47D kits?
If you're up for it, I've got the information and parts to help get it done.
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Where's that praying imogee??? If they do make one, I hope they do a J.
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Tango Papa makes some great decal film. I've used their clear decal paper for more than 10 years. It works great in the Alps printer so I can imagine it would work just as well in another printer too. Tango Papa Decal Paper
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3 hours ago, Tony T said:
It's the Walther P-38 and it's in 1/35 scale for a Wehrmacht figures set.
The Lockheed one would be pretty cool, but isn't the Trumpeter Lightning supposed to be quite convincing and a good build ?
Tony
Having built the Trumpeter kit, I would say no to both.
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I checked IPMS Stockholm in their UK paint section and they don't even list a CAB300/anything... Who makes the paint and/or what spec is it from? A CAB300 Google search yields absolutely nothing paint related.
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Bang! $87 (including shipping) for the Red Barons Albatross...good thing I had some funds on my PayPal.
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Well, if they've fixed the aft turret and all the other offending issues, wings, engines, cowls, wheels..et al (I'm not fixing the wings.... I don't have that much time left on this Earth), I might think about this one but I think the money in my wallet is safe from being spent (at least for now). I'm not holding out a lot of hope for this guy.... but we'll see when someone has the plastic in their hands and can definitively comment.
- alanash1963 and John1
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Guys, I may be preaching to the quior here but if aluminum has been anodized (not to be confused with alodine), it does not need a further coat of paint or preservative as the anodized coating is, in fact, corroded aluminum and acts as a protective layer for the underlying material (usually 0.003 - 0.005 inches deep).
The fact that the relics have aotake on them is indicative that the parts have not been anodized but are more likely corroded from years off exposure to sources of humidity. In Scott's photos I can clearly see corrosion around the rivet holes and other areas.
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She's painted in RAF stock paints and was photographed on the Continent in 1945 I believe. Someone here made a model of her not too long ago.
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How about this photo:
The lights are formation lights and are orange in color. There is another one on the aft fuselage area and two on the opposite side in the same location. According to my reference, these lights were installed on very few P-51's. Interesting to see that in another photo of this aircraft (and others in the 357th), the aft fuselage light is located dead-center in the fuselage star whereas in the above 4th FG photo (previous post), it's toward the rear of the national insignia.
I looked for a TO for the installation but could not find one so it must have been a theatre or depot installation that was apparently an option as not all P-51D's seem to have had them. I have not found much on these lights but to be honest, I haven't looked really hard yet either. I do know I was not able to find them in the P-51D & K Illustrated Parts Catalog.
If you look at the lower photo of Nooky Booky IV, you will see the forward fuselage light installed whereas the upper photo does not have it installed yet. https://www.cebudanderson.com/357profilenookybookyiv.htm
REFERENCE: Kinzey, Bert.1997. P-51 Mustang in Detail & Scale, Volume 51, Part 2, P-51D through F-82H. Squadron/Signal Publications. Carrollton, TX (pp. 2, 33)
- BiggTim and Starfighter Jock
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25 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said:
Correct. The three formation lights on a P-51 should be on the underside of the Starboard wing (not sure about the order or colors here though) :
I don't think these are formation lights. I believe they are identification lights. I cannot remember how they were used but my failing memory seems to think they were used in different combinations to ID either friend from foe and/or airfield ID to keep AAA gunners from shooting at them. Formation lights would be blue/purple.
Of course, none of this I can corroborate at the moment; it's just my memory which I don't trust 100% any longer.
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20 minutes ago, A6M said:
Hello Gentlemen,
My apologies for not replying sooner. My 89 year old father slipped and broke his hip on Tuesday so things have been a little hectic since then. Fortunately, due to the weather today (10 cm of snow and 65 kph wind) I have the afternoon off.to work on my tweak lists. I'll post more material ASAP.
Ryan
Oh dear... I hope he's comfortable and in good spirits. I know what a huge issue breaking a hip can be for elderly folks. Best wishes for speedy recovery and home ASAP. Looking forward to your revised/updated tweaks list.
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Agreed! Nicely done. Tight camo pattern's are the rats-rear-end. Excellent work! Now you've just gotta cover it all up with dust, dirt, grime, and stains....
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1 minute ago, titan8251 said:
I am getting ready to start a Pearl harbor A6M2 myself. Any help will be appreciated. Wasn't there someone who did a nice PDF of the color schemes and colors of the Zero and they were selling it?
Andy
yes, Nick Millman is the author of that work. If you're so inclined, you can visit his site here, scroll down to the thumbnail (in the R/H Margin) of the Early Zeroe's and purchase a copy. He's got more stuff that I just realized when I went to look for the link to put here so I have to revisit his page again soon.
HTH
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Per Robert Mikesh:
"The name "aotake" is also controvserial. When translated directly from Japanese, the word "aotake" lieterally means, "blue bamboo". However, "ao" also means "green" or "young" in Japanese. In this case, therefore, "green bamboo" or "young bamboo" may be more appropriate as translations of "aotake"....
Encounters with aotake in protected areas such as under tightly riveted pieces of metal reveal a deep transparent blue. In areas where long exposure has occurred, aotake is much lighter and greener.... Aotake seems to vary with every sample examined. Even on a small piece of metal, sometimes many colors can be seen. They are blended together like oils on a canvas. Therefore, when simulating it for whatever purpose -- if it looks right, it is right."
In short, Aotake can range anywhere from a deep translucent blue to a translucent green color.
REFERENCE: Mikesh, Robert C. (2000). Japanese Aircraft Interiors, 1940-1045. Monogram Aviation Publications. Sturbridge, MA (p. 15)
- D.B. Andrus and One-Oh-Four
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Miniart 1/35 Focke-Wulf Triebflugel interceptor - Nachtjager version announced
in LSP Discussion
Posted · Edited by Juggernut
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There'd have to be a snoot-full of rudder authority to counter the torque from that gigantic propeller.
As for the kit.....meh, even if it was 1/32. Guess Luftwaffe 46 isn't my bag baby...(best Austin Powers voice).