BiggTim

If demarcation line of stub and part is not distinctive, use fine marker as suggested. With a thin edge part like shown, don't risk damage to LE using saw. Resin is brittle enough to just scribe along the marked line with pin, and snap stub off along scribed line. Then clean up edge with sandpaper.

I use a razor saw then a heavy file followed by lesser grades. What ever method you use be aware of the fillings and dust = not good for your health.
 
Steve.

Honestly I think in this case, with the G-Factor set not an option, I would personally would stick to the OOB gear in that case. Much stiffer than the SAC option, and will in the end make you happier I think. Unless you are using a conversion w/a lot of resin, or a Mistel setup, I think the OOB gear are a better option than the SAC gear. 

Best use for them is to melt them down and use them as nose weights.

Mmmmm- they look lovely. Unfortunately out of my price range, particularly once you put shipping to the UK on it.
 
One set left....

G-Factor gear is in stock at Victory Models. I highly recommend these folks!
https://www.victorymodels.com/collections/model-aircraft-landing-gear/products/1-32-g-factor-landing-gear-for-ju-88-for-revell-32024

Thanks Troy. Luckily, a) they were cheap and they arent fitted to the kit. Think Im going to try and cast some myself in bronze.
 
And thanks to everyone else for their input- its been enlightening to say the least (!)
 
Glad I got the heads up, because I was going to buy another SAC set for my Revell He219's. The one good thing I had heard about this one was that they had been cast with the weight of the aircraft modelled into them- apparently, the kit ones are too long as theyve been designed fully extended as though the aircraft is airborne and with no weight on the U/C. There is actually a Profimodellor set with brass rods for strengthening the kit legs but Im not sure if it addresses the incorrect oleo length.

Thundra rest assured. The white metal gear you have cleaned up,sanded, primered, painted in proper RLM colors,installed on your lovely Junkers now has an unfortunately incurable collapsing syndrome with a poor maximum taxi design weight. What a damn shame. Your hard efforts on your Ju-88 should have received a better product treatment.. Rest assured, I'm pretty sure the white metal gear can be purposely reused with a little additive and made into a decent sparkler material for some kids who want to honor Scotland's Independence Day? Just kindly saying with a bit of humor added.
 
The kit gear would work out better for you unfortunately. I wish you only the best speedy recovery on the junker recovery.

If not easy to get a respectable brass set, I just drill the kit gear and pin with steel. one through strut, one through spindle.

White metal is mostly solder..stick a soldering iron on them and see what happens

Wow- what a response. Seems no love for the SAC's gear then?
 
Ive thought about going the tube/solder route (Ive got other kits I want to change the landing gear on, such as the PCM Mc202/205), although in the case of the Ju88 theres a soft cover over the oleo leg which would be difficult to reproduce. I do have access to bronze casting, although its generally larger items that are cast in this foundry. Maybe Ill have a go at casting some replacements. I could also 3D print some (I work at a University), but dont think they would be any stronger than the kit parts
 
Ill also have a go with the hot water and see if I can straighten them.
 
Thanks for the input!

LOL!

I  like Stephen's option, learn how to solder and give it a try, i think "trial and error" could be very lucrative........

LSP_Ray's reviews of their landing gear always make me chuckle because they always end the same.....
 
 
https://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/?type=Aftermarket

I just don't know why SAC persist in producing 1/32 sets of gear, maybe 1/48 would be fine and sturdy enough, but 32nd and larger NO WAY JOSE, but ofcourse it's a matter of economics for them, "no matter what, we'll keep on producing these floppy gear sets........and make money......yeah right!!!

Honestly, the only redeeming thing I can see in ANY SAC set is if you happen to be missing a set of gear and cant replace them OOB. Even then, they are almost never as strong as the OOB parts. 

I had stocked up on SAC gears for the Revell Phantoms.  I think I had anywhere from 3 to 6 sets.  I never opened them. After reading how soft they were, curiosity got to me.  Opened one up and discovered they bent like solder. Complete garbage.  Seriously, you can bend those things without heat.  No need to worry about ruining them, SAC already did that for you. 
All of my new stash went straight into the round file.

As others have said, personally after experimenting with many many SAC sets, the best fix for them is insertion into the circular file. They will eventually bend under weight, regardless of being bent prior to install.
Don't even waste your precious time/energy on them.

1) Immerse them in boiling water for a while (30 minutes?) Put on winter gloves. See if you can bend them, slowly, back to their correct shape. 
Lots  of luck!!!
2) Learn how to solder. Buy a selection of brass (copper?) tubes of varioius diameters. Reconstruct the landing gear from scratch this time using metal like brass or copper.    Better yet, learn to silver solder. 
Either may work, or may not. 
Life is a challenge. Go for it.
You may want to buy a micro soldering torch to do this work.
Experiment.
You might like this and gain a new skill.
Or, you might add me to your list of new hatreds.
Either way   
Lots of luck
                                                                             

I actually stuck to my guns and did NOT order one. The Phoenix trip is going to cost a LOT, so I have to practice some self-control. I'm also working on changing my diet and exercising more, which is getting the desired results, so I guess it's a summer of self-discipline for me!

I actually stuck to my guns and did NOT order one. The Phoenix trip is going to cost a LOT, so I have to practice some self-control. I'm also working on changing my diet and exercising more, which is getting the desired results, so I guess it's a summer of self-discipline for me!

x2 on Brian's suggestion, saw. The other way is a scoring tool like a panel line scriber.

What Hubert says is unfortunately true, which stinks since you already bought them. Hopefully they were not costly. Free would be too high a price for those things. 
 
You could certainly try heating them and bending them back, or just slowly do it without heat, but no guarantees, and heating them may make them weaker than before, or just melt them altogether. The SAC products really are awful stuff, I'm afraid. The weight of the model is often enough to bend them.
 
Bronze is the only way to go for metal legs, and I don't know if anyone makes legs for that plane. Good luck!
 
Tim

x2 on Brian's suggestion, saw. The other way is a scoring tool like a panel line scriber.

I normally use a thin blade saw like one of Radu's saws. He makes fine, medium and larger tooth saws.
 
 
http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_112