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LSP_Kevin

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Everything posted by LSP_Kevin

  1. Which long span are you referring to, Lee? The original B-2 boxing of the HKM kit comes with extended wing tips, but these didn't extend the span by much. Kev
  2. Nice progress, Mike. Next time you have trouble with translucent white plastic, try spraying the inside black prior to assembly. This helps block the light tremendously, and results in less paint needed to do it from the outside - especially if that paint is also white, like in your case. Kev
  3. I was going to mention the glare shield angle too, but Derek beat me to it! One of reference photos you posted seems to show it pretty clearly, Max. Kev
  4. DaygloModels has announced the release of its SIAI Marchetti SF 260 kit on Facebook: "Good morning to all followers of the official DayGlo Models page. After months of work and drastic choices, we can finally announce the release of the new SIAI Marchetti SF 260 kit in 1/32 scale. The kit is now totally 3D printed, whilst still retaining some metal details (wheels and propeller blades) and VAC-U-FORM for the canopy and windshield and a splendid pre-coloured instrument panel made exclusively for us by Red Fox Studio. The decals, printed by the Italian CARTOGRAF, allow you to reproduce one of three of the Italian Air Force aircraft of the 1980s, in the classic orange colour, one from theReparto Sperimentale , one from the Scuola Plurimotori and one from the 70ยบ Sormo. In the photos a kit that a dear friend assembled, from a box and almost completely free of filler parts. This is the first printed kit, which allowed us to correct some small construction details and make assembly, although suitable for expert modelers, a little easier. As always, for further information, you can contact us using our email address. These will be followed by other photos and reviews, both on this page and on specialized sites. Thank you for your attention, patience and continued encouragement. Happy modeling." Kev
  5. Lovely work as always, Tolga. And now the subject of this week's banner image on our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/largescaleplanes Kev
  6. So, about those engines: This is the second engine, which cracked and split just like the first one, but much worse. There seems to have been some sort of a (probably exothermic) reaction with the CA and the white metal, and you can see how the plastic has reacted. While technically this is fixable with enough putty and elbow grease, given the brittle plastic and soft nature of the white metal, I'd just be flogging a dead horse here, so I'm going to replace them with a spare set of RB211 engines from the Revell 767 kit: Happily, the pylons are mostly the same too, though I'll have to modify the rear fairings a little. Kev
  7. I've had a representative from Welsh Models reach out to me on Facebook about this kit, and they explain it thusly: Interesting! Since my last post, I've started working on the engine fronts and attaching them to the plastic parts, but things are not going well, and I now wish I'd ordered the Bra.Z engines while I was grabbing their wheels. They don't come close to fitting properly, and I've actually split the plastic on one of the twice so far. Offering up the pylons to the wings shows that that's a disaster too, so I'm not sure they're worth persevering with. I'll get the fuselage, wings, and tailplanes sorted first while I think about it. Kev
  8. That looks great, Sasha! Amazing the colour variations you're getting with the different backgrounds, too. Kev
  9. Another idea that was just given to me by Gil Hodges on Facebook, is to fill both recesses and not use them at all. While this would mean I'd have to butt-join the tailplanes onto the fuselage, the reality is they don't really fit into the recesses anyway, and I was always going to pin them for strength no matter what. I think this approach might have taken the lead now, as it means no cutting, no weakening of the fuselage in that area, and far less risk of screwing it up. It also means I can attend to it after joining the fuselage halves, and fill the window recesses at the same time. Kev
  10. That's my thinking at the moment, too. My main concern is the shape around the back end - especially the lower portion. Moving those compound curves forward, even by only 1.5-2mm, isn't really going to compute. I guess if I'm careful with the shape of the cut-out, I might be able to get away with it. Kev
  11. I know I'm posting a lot on this one lately, but I've got quite a head of steam up with it, even though I should be working! Anyway, I've just discovered that port tailplane recess on the Welshmodels 757 is 1.5-2mm further back than the starboard one. Doesn't sound like much, but is quite noticeable from above. The forward pencil mark indicates where the front of the starboard one is. And I measured each as being the same length, so they're definitely out of position with respect to each other, rather than this one simply being shorter at the front, for example. So, to the fix. I can either cut it out the entire recess and move it forward, or extend the front and fill the rear. The first one preserves the shape properly, and will move the hole I drilled into alignment with the one on the starboard side (this is how I discovered the discrepancy), but is more work, and easier to screw up. The second option is simpler, but more crude, and I'd still have to drill a new hole and risk the shape not being good any more. I'm leaning towards the first one, but would like a second opinion or two! Kev
  12. Very neat work, Greg! I had no idea Flory had ventured into 3D printing. Kev
  13. OK, nose wheel bay fixed: I made a little mounting fixture for the nose leg from styrene tube, set at a height that will hopefully give me the correct overall sit for the model. I'll box it all in from the outside once the fuselage halves are joined. This will narrow the opening slightly, but will be much easier to do! It's pretty agricultural on the inside, however: Modelling is all about creating the illusion of veracity (in my view, anyway), so as long as it looks convincing from the outside - as Metallica would say - nothing else matters. Before I can join the fuselage halves together, I still need to sort out a spar for the wings. The instructions would have you do this after they're joined, but this doesn't make sense to me, since threading the spar through would be a needless challenge I think. Kev
  14. I don't think our Group Builds go back that far! Kev
  15. My all-inclusive idea would include both! Kev
  16. Cool project, Tolga! I've read that the Aires wheel bay is actually more appropriate for a P-51A, ironically. I have one also, but I'm not sure whether to use it on my Trumpeter kit, or save it for the Hobbycraft one. Good luck with yours! Kev
  17. I looked at it, and considered briefly, but decided to pass. Kev
  18. Looking at the kit more closely, I can see that it was my mistake in not recognising the panel lines to the rear of my cut-out as being the main gear bay outline. The part that I cut out, from what I can gather, is the section the nose wheel retracts into, and the doors are only open during the extension and retractions phases. So I got it half right, but not the important half! I think it'll be a pretty straightforward fix. Kev
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