OldTroll

Hoping to put this sub-thread to rest, MVR flew at least seven F.I/Dr.I:
 
F.I 102/17 September 1917 - Factory finish of Olive streaks over all upper sufaces and fuselage sides; "Fokker blue" base coat.
Dr.I 127/17 Mid-March 1918 - Red cowling, struts and wheel disks.  Olive streaked upper surfaces and fuselage sides over clear-doped linen (CDL.)  Light blue undersurfaces.
Dr.I 152/17 March 1918 - Red cowling, struts, rear fuselage and tailplane, top of upper wing and wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 161/17 March 1918 - Red cowling, struts, tailplane, top of upper wing and wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 405/17 January 1918 - Red wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 425/17 March/April 1918 - Red overall.
The above all had the earlier curved arm cross (Cross Pattee.)  425/17 was updated with the straight arm cross (Balkenkreuz) in late March/early April shortly before Richtofen's death.
Dr.I 477/17 Early April 1918 - same scheme as 161/17 with Balkenkreuz as 425/17.
 
Source:  Research by R. Seissler in producing 60+ 1/33 scale card models from c 2006-2013  at www.paperwarbirds.net (now inactive.)
 

Hoping to put this sub-thread to rest, MVR flew at least seven F.I/Dr.I:
 
F.I 102/17 September 1917 - Factory finish of Olive streaks over all upper sufaces and fuselage sides; "Fokker blue" base coat.
Dr.I 127/17 Mid-March 1918 - Red cowling, struts and wheel disks.  Olive streaked upper surfaces and fuselage sides over clear-doped linen (CDL.)  Light blue undersurfaces.
Dr.I 152/17 March 1918 - Red cowling, struts, rear fuselage and tailplane, top of upper wing and wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 161/17 March 1918 - Red cowling, struts, tailplane, top of upper wing and wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 405/17 January 1918 - Red wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 425/17 March/April 1918 - Red overall.
The above all had the earlier curved arm cross (Cross Pattee.)  425/17 was updated with the straight arm cross (Balkenkreuz) in late March/early April shortly before Richtofen's death.
Dr.I 477/17 Early April 1918 - same scheme as 161/17 with Balkenkreuz as 425/17.
 
Source:  Research by R. Seissler in producing 60+ 1/33 scale card models from c 2006-2013  at www.paperwarbirds.net (now inactive.)
 

Hoping to put this sub-thread to rest, MVR flew at least seven F.I/Dr.I:
 
F.I 102/17 September 1917 - Factory finish of Olive streaks over all upper sufaces and fuselage sides; "Fokker blue" base coat.
Dr.I 127/17 Mid-March 1918 - Red cowling, struts and wheel disks.  Olive streaked upper surfaces and fuselage sides over clear-doped linen (CDL.)  Light blue undersurfaces.
Dr.I 152/17 March 1918 - Red cowling, struts, rear fuselage and tailplane, top of upper wing and wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 161/17 March 1918 - Red cowling, struts, tailplane, top of upper wing and wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 405/17 January 1918 - Red wheel disks.  Otherwise as 127/17.
Dr.I 425/17 March/April 1918 - Red overall.
The above all had the earlier curved arm cross (Cross Pattee.)  425/17 was updated with the straight arm cross (Balkenkreuz) in late March/early April shortly before Richtofen's death.
Dr.I 477/17 Early April 1918 - same scheme as 161/17 with Balkenkreuz as 425/17.
 
Source:  Research by R. Seissler in producing 60+ 1/33 scale card models from c 2006-2013  at www.paperwarbirds.net (now inactive.)
 

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

Thank you.

I encountered this  a couple months ago and was told by WNW that you can pay with your PayPal balance but not with a bank transfer.  In other words, move money to your PayPal account before ordering, then do the ordering process.  It worked fine for me.

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

So - 32068 = F.I/Dr.I (early) and 32069 = Dr.I(late)
 
Pheon is planning about 90 Dr.I decal sets so I need to start saving NOW (oh, and live long enough to buy/build them all - I'm only 76 so no problem...)

Based on the WNW Photos thread the HP O/400 (kit 32039) will be joined by its predecessor, the HP O/100 (kit 32051.)  Different engines and some internal differences.

Hmmm....wouldn't they need the D.III first?  Maybe a combo kit with a land/sea option? I'm
still holding out for a Star-strutter or anything Martinsyde or anything starting with "B.E."
 

Congrats for being first across the line, Erwin! And only 12 days in, too.
 
Kev

See Seiran01's thread in the mullti-engine build topic.
 

I was advised by WNW to either (1) transfer $ from my bank to PayPal and then pay with my PayPal balance or (2) use my credit card.  Apparently bank-to-bank results in rejection of the transaction.  I chose option (1) and had no problems.

I was advised by WNW to either (1) transfer $ from my bank to PayPal and then pay with my PayPal balance or (2) use my credit card.  Apparently bank-to-bank results in rejection of the transaction.  I chose option (1) and had no problems.

I assembled mine yesterday and last night.  The review has it spot on with a personal observation that the level of detail and delicateness of many of the cockpit parts is superb.  A few injection nubs to clean up (none are visible after assembly) and care in removing some smaller parts from the sprues is a must.  The wing and fuselage joins are virtually invisible.  The ailerons and elevator are essentially "press fit" with the tips of the horizontal stabilizer needing a couple passes with a sanding stick to relieve the tightness of the fit.  The ailerons and elevator join the fixed assemblies with a number of rods that fit into corresponding holes in the trailing edge of the fixed assembly.  I found it prudent to slightly relieve the appropriate holes with a twist drill to avoid snapping off the delicate rods on the control surface parts.  The nose assembly will benefit from extra study and trial fitting before committing to adhesive.  Make sure the radiator is plumb vertical and properly interfaces with the engine fitting at the top.
 
This build will not be painted but was just for my enjoyment of assembly while my eyes and hands still work well enough get the pieces more or less where they belong.  All in all a very enjoyable experience and another feather in WNW's cap.

I assembled mine yesterday and last night.  The review has it spot on with a personal observation that the level of detail and delicateness of many of the cockpit parts is superb.  A few injection nubs to clean up (none are visible after assembly) and care in removing some smaller parts from the sprues is a must.  The wing and fuselage joins are virtually invisible.  The ailerons and elevator are essentially "press fit" with the tips of the horizontal stabilizer needing a couple passes with a sanding stick to relieve the tightness of the fit.  The ailerons and elevator join the fixed assemblies with a number of rods that fit into corresponding holes in the trailing edge of the fixed assembly.  I found it prudent to slightly relieve the appropriate holes with a twist drill to avoid snapping off the delicate rods on the control surface parts.  The nose assembly will benefit from extra study and trial fitting before committing to adhesive.  Make sure the radiator is plumb vertical and properly interfaces with the engine fitting at the top.
 
This build will not be painted but was just for my enjoyment of assembly while my eyes and hands still work well enough get the pieces more or less where they belong.  All in all a very enjoyable experience and another feather in WNW's cap.

I assembled mine yesterday and last night.  The review has it spot on with a personal observation that the level of detail and delicateness of many of the cockpit parts is superb.  A few injection nubs to clean up (none are visible after assembly) and care in removing some smaller parts from the sprues is a must.  The wing and fuselage joins are virtually invisible.  The ailerons and elevator are essentially "press fit" with the tips of the horizontal stabilizer needing a couple passes with a sanding stick to relieve the tightness of the fit.  The ailerons and elevator join the fixed assemblies with a number of rods that fit into corresponding holes in the trailing edge of the fixed assembly.  I found it prudent to slightly relieve the appropriate holes with a twist drill to avoid snapping off the delicate rods on the control surface parts.  The nose assembly will benefit from extra study and trial fitting before committing to adhesive.  Make sure the radiator is plumb vertical and properly interfaces with the engine fitting at the top.
 
This build will not be painted but was just for my enjoyment of assembly while my eyes and hands still work well enough get the pieces more or less where they belong.  All in all a very enjoyable experience and another feather in WNW's cap.

"The German army wanted aileron controls, but earlier production aircraft had to be fitted with wing-warping controls, felt to be more vulnerable to battle damage."  (From historyofwar.org)

The cockpit and forward fuselage assemblies have a high parts density and exhibit almost zero tolerance in fitting.  There is nothing wrong with the parts but excess glue or paint will cause a problem.  Think Fokker D.VII front end only more so.  I know there will be those of you who will rig the interior and I am in awe of you.  Paint everything that needs it before assembly because it's all difficult (that is, impossible) to reach after the sub-assemblies start going together.  Once the fuselage is together the rest is pretty straightforward.  I recommend reading through the instructions a few times after selecting your version; there are holes to be drilled, bits to trim and various part options.  Quality is top notch and the model captures "the look" of the Dolphin perfectly.  I have no idea how the pilot got in the seat if he was of medium or larger build with the upper wing section framework and a couple of Lewis guns in the way.
 
Sorry, no pics but I'm sure one of the "ace" builders will have some up soon.

The cockpit and forward fuselage assemblies have a high parts density and exhibit almost zero tolerance in fitting.  There is nothing wrong with the parts but excess glue or paint will cause a problem.  Think Fokker D.VII front end only more so.  I know there will be those of you who will rig the interior and I am in awe of you.  Paint everything that needs it before assembly because it's all difficult (that is, impossible) to reach after the sub-assemblies start going together.  Once the fuselage is together the rest is pretty straightforward.  I recommend reading through the instructions a few times after selecting your version; there are holes to be drilled, bits to trim and various part options.  Quality is top notch and the model captures "the look" of the Dolphin perfectly.  I have no idea how the pilot got in the seat if he was of medium or larger build with the upper wing section framework and a couple of Lewis guns in the way.
 
Sorry, no pics but I'm sure one of the "ace" builders will have some up soon.

The cockpit and forward fuselage assemblies have a high parts density and exhibit almost zero tolerance in fitting.  There is nothing wrong with the parts but excess glue or paint will cause a problem.  Think Fokker D.VII front end only more so.  I know there will be those of you who will rig the interior and I am in awe of you.  Paint everything that needs it before assembly because it's all difficult (that is, impossible) to reach after the sub-assemblies start going together.  Once the fuselage is together the rest is pretty straightforward.  I recommend reading through the instructions a few times after selecting your version; there are holes to be drilled, bits to trim and various part options.  Quality is top notch and the model captures "the look" of the Dolphin perfectly.  I have no idea how the pilot got in the seat if he was of medium or larger build with the upper wing section framework and a couple of Lewis guns in the way.
 
Sorry, no pics but I'm sure one of the "ace" builders will have some up soon.