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joker

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About joker

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  1. I was thinking about this morning on the way into work...I think for me, the idea of how to pull off the all white finish and make it interesting is the challenge...give what could be a very dull and boring paint scheme some life.... haven't decided yet as I have way too many projects and one more won't help. Just my thoughts...not important. P
  2. Thank you all for taking the time, looks as if I will be adding to my library... Cheers, Pete
  3. Hi All, Wondering if there is a walk around out there, I've looked and can't find anything, but maybe I'm not using the right keyword?... I've got the 1/32 kit and would like to get a bit more of an idea of whats going on in the cockpits, etc. Thanks for your time and patience, Pete
  4. I always look forward to your work, outstanding craftsmanship..the treatment of the plywood is outstanding. Could you comment on how you achieved the base colour and tones, before the decals were applied? Thanks, brilliant stuff, Peter
  5. Hi All, Some thoughts on vinyl paint masks. When I transfer vinyl from the backer to a substrate at the signshop, I use a very low tack tape, I just call it paper tape, transfer tape is another name or application tape. While still on the backer, I will often throw it on top of a light table and create a registration mark, just so I have a reference line in which to measure from. A window works just as well, if there isn't a light table around. Once the vinyl has been located on the wing, and you've measured it at least six times ( I know, right?)..., tape down one edge, creating a "hinge" , fold it over remove the backer and place it gently on the wing..that way if you have to move it you have to...however I find that if i have to move it, then the second placement requires a bit more burnishing as some of the adhesive has been removed, if that makes any sense. If the transfer tape seems to be holding onto the vinyl mask a bit too aggressively, warm air will soften the adhesive, usually your breath is fine, just get close to the transfer material, peel back an edge and breathe and peel..it should do the trick...if it doesn't another trick is a bit of water on the transfer tape, not a lot, don't drown it..you just want to soften the adhesive on the transfer tape enough to remove it from the mask. When the mask is in place and and I'm happy with the placement, I just burnish it down on the edge, seems to work for me, but that's just me, you may want to burnish the whole mask down, up to you. Another thing I do, is cut more than I need, so when I make mistake, which after almost 25 years of doing this kind of thing, I still do, then I have another mask in the line up ready to go..I hate having to re cut vinyl..and it's not like I won't use it again. If it's a particularly complicated mask, or paint surface, I may do a sample on a spare piece of material going through the same steps of degreasing, priming, painting that I did on the scale model to see if there is any chance of a mask failure..we've all been there, so you know what I mean. it's a bit of extra time but I think it saves a lot of heartburn later on. These are things that work for me..you may find something in the above that works for you. You may not. Good Luck, Pete
  6. Morning all...I've been in the graphic design and sign industry for over 30 years..and have used vinyl plotters for at least 25 of them..they all work the same...not to worry, just remember to save the layout, in case there is an issue..save save save.. Regards, Peter
  7. Always like that Alaska logo and word mark, nice bit of typography.
  8. Cool, always interested to find out what others are using. Cheers, Peter
  9. Just wondering about your photography setup, looks great and pin sharp. Thanks, Peter
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