geedubelyer

+1
 
Nice end result Chris 

You're really motoring with this build.
Coming on in leaps and bounds.
 
Keep it up 

They sure do! All helps with quicker stash reduction though Andy! 

Cheers for that Guy! I do tend to try and watch what Jen puts out, but I must have missed this one.. 

hi all,
exactly one year after its completion, I managed to take some decent photos of it, sorry for the delay.
a 1978 Matchbox kit, a lot of work and old school scratchbuilding to make it look decent.
 
here is the related wip: https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/91451-westland-lysander-mk-iii-sd-matchbox-revell-132/
 
cheers, Paolo
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lovely stuff Norbert 

Great job on the seat 
 
I'm a little surprised that there is no indication of a slot for the seat height adjuster arm. 
In truth it looks a tad crude. 
 
I suppose not much will be visible once the seat is in situ. 
 
Looking forward to more before long.
 
Cheers 

Quick update: I’m almost done with the seat. I’ve made it look worn (probably too worn) but went with a standard interior green frame and a kind of murky black-green for the padding as I suspect that is what many of the wartime seats were padded with. The pad in the seat pan looks like it was a piece of leather to prevent chaffing of the parachute rip-chord. Unlike @Shoggz really neat work with the molded-in straps, I am going with Eduard metal straps. More later this week…

 
Kind regards,
Paul

with some paint
 

 

Hello
i'm still on USAF aircrews from the 80s-2000s era : we adapted the F-16 pilot that was designed recently in order to get A-10 and F-15 versions, modifying arms and legs positions :
 
Inside the A-10 :
 
and inside the F-15 :
 

cheers
Norbert

The aftermarket exhaust stubs and seat belts are a must. There are a few holes to be drilled out in the engine bay including the bracket attached to the firewall. That one will be very visible if you are building the open engine.  One error in the instructions is that the glass on the compass needs to be fitted, that was missed in the plans.

Hi Paul, I think it may be a reference re the padding that was usually on the seat.
Sometimes it was black ...
 


 

 
Though these are not wartime photos,  they may represent what was . 

Nice job.
That front 3/4 shot under natural light is particularly convincing 
 

Neat progress Richard. 
 
Re: canopy masking. 
Jen of Jenesis Designs and Modelcraft advocates self adhesive foil. 
 
 
This video details her process from about 15minutes.
 
HTH

Neat progress Richard. 
 
Re: canopy masking. 
Jen of Jenesis Designs and Modelcraft advocates self adhesive foil. 
 
 
This video details her process from about 15minutes.
 
HTH

Some decent progress tonight.
 
The cockpit 'innards' are complete.
 
 
 
 
 
I keep checking Hannants to see if a canopy masking set has become available for the 'early' Mk.I, but nothing has appeared yet.
 
At this rate, I'll be forced to mask it 'manually' .. 

Hi Guy,
 
Thanks for the reply!
 
I'm with you when it comes to trains, happy to travel on them and that's about it.
 
I'll let you know how much there is in way of models and will post some pics. My main reason for going is that the IPMS Tornado SIG are attending and I have a shopping list of AM goodies for my Italeri GR4.
 
Best regards,
 
Jeremy 

https://www.aircraftinpixels.com/shop/p/132-scale-macchi-c202-landing-gear-legs
 
Currently available for pre-order at a special price. We expect to begin shipping these the week of May 6.
Two piece design allows assembly of landing gear after model is painted (!)
Made of premium, super high strength resin.
Finely detailed door support brackets and torque link.
Separately rendered brake lines in resilient resin.
Will work with the kit wheels or my aftermarket wheels and tires without modification.
Please note the photos below are dry fit, pre-production items. Wheels and tires sold separately.
 









 

Hi @geedubelyer I had to put it away since I was very frustrated removing all the rivets and rescratching all the panel lines. What a p*** in the a** 
 
Currently I am continuing my Mirage III S. But I am sure, I will continue with the Vampi. I just need to find am easier way the remove the reverts, since the Swiss Vampi has almost all reverts cleaned.
 
Stay tuned.
 
Cheers
Carsten

That canopy frame is really nice. 
Good job. 

A little update - the ''Zipper'' needs new ''panel lines''. I checked other WIP builds, several pics of the real plane, and it really needs some ''reorganizations' of the panel lines. Moreover, they are HUGE, so they need thinning. Here is a simple measurement of the thickest lines...
 

 
Half a milimeter in this scale is somewhere over 1 cm, about half an inch, in the real thing, which is impossible. Two adjacent pieces of metal foil is the right way to go (I did some trials), but the ''gap'' underneath needs to be flat beforehand. Therefore...
 

 

 
Now it's drying time, then sanding, and probably a secondary filling/sanding of the panel lines. I'll figure out the locations of the ''new'' panel lines during the gluing of the metal foil, but the advantage of this black filler is that where two foil peaces are adjacent - the tiny little gap will be enhanced by the black color underneath.
 
PS: btw this white triangular white thing underneath is the finished casing of my F-117.   

32052 F-15C Canopy frame (for Tamiya kit) is ready, finally.... Details on www.kopeckyscalemodels.com  

Well, according to jmel in his F-16C/D book, say that FS 36375 (Lt. Ghost Grey) is the most common but here's a shallow 131 that's in green.
 

Two hours tonight spent on the instrument panel!
 
..and I think it was worth it.
 
 
Doing an IP this way pushes the old decaling skills. For me, the art is to try and hit that sweet spot where you have enough water on the decal to allow you to manoeuvre it, but not too much so you flood and disturb what you've already done..
 
Got the seat constructed and painted too.