Revell 1/32 F-4E (from F-4G kit) 32nd TFS - The paint is on!

[Shujaa]

Well, that's exactly why I'm not sure... I also did some quick checking on the net and found the same result. However, I also noticed that most pic's I found showed pictures of the speed-brakes, taken at a later date (90's). 

 

I know for sure that USN-bird's, in the same time-frame as when the 32nd operated the F-4, had the actuators painted white. But, as already mentioned, I don't know if this was a USN-thing...

 

However, it still makes sense these actuators where painted white in the "early" years. When looking at landing-gear bay's and the like, we see different colors applied through time. They probably started out just being BMF. Through time they received a coat of aluminium-dope paint, in regard to "corrosion-control". Next we discovered "chromate-zink" paint, so guess what...??? Yepp, everything was apinted in "chromate-zink" yellow-green. Next, somebody actualy used his brain... The airframes were still treated with "chromate-zink" paint, but landing-gear bay's, speed-brake area's and other hydraulicly operated area's where over-painted with white. Why ??? Well, hydraulic fluid has a transluscent red color which show's up pretty nicely against a white back-ground and that makes it pretty easy to detect possible leak's.   

 

Currently we are living in the "safety age". People are no longer allowed to use their brain and need to be protected against their own stupidity against all cost's. We all scream "risk analysis" but when somebody bumb's his head we no longer ask ourself if it is incidental, structual or pure stupidity. We immediatly start carving up tennis-ball's and stick them onto each & every sharp corner we can find. Now that's human progress for You...    

 

Oh well, being white or being red... Maybe a Spook-techie can chip in. Just as long as You are enjoying Your build (and I'm sure You are), that's all that matters in the end.

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

 

 

[Grunticus]

The exhaust area was painted and weathered (only took three tries before I was happy enough, but will reveal later ) and is all masked up for the first main color.

 

 

Academy's TISEO in place. I have all the needed resin supplies in my room, and I wil read up on casting and see if I manage to make resin copies of it, and of the J.A. Maurer P2 Strike Cameras that are also on the Z-sprue of the Academy kit. It looks like it could be done. Advice welcome.

 

 

I've also done some work on navigation lighting. The green ones are a tad too translucent, but the green acryl plate I ordered was too opaque, so I used plastic from a BIC lighter for the green.

 

 

Cheers!

[Grunticus]

On 10/28/2023 at 2:28 PM, Dave Williams said:

Those strike cameras (there are usually two, one on the other side facing to the rear) are actually in the Academy rebox of the Revell kit.  It was on a new sprue Z that they added to their kits.

 

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10787598/40/4

 

 

Dave, many thanks for thin information, I bought the Academy kit and can now add important parts to this build. Cheers!

 

On 11/13/2023 at 11:33 AM, Shujaa said:

Well, that's exactly why I'm not sure... I also did some quick checking on the net and found the same result. However, I also noticed that most pic's I found showed pictures of the speed-brakes, taken at a later date (90's). 

 

I know for sure that USN-bird's, in the same time-frame as when the 32nd operated the F-4, had the actuators painted white. But, as already mentioned, I don't know if this was a USN-thing...

 

However, it still makes sense these actuators where painted white in the "early" years. When looking at landing-gear bay's and the like, we see different colors applied through time. They probably started out just being BMF. Through time they received a coat of aluminium-dope paint, in regard to "corrosion-control". Next we discovered "chromate-zink" paint, so guess what...??? Yepp, everything was apinted in "chromate-zink" yellow-green. Next, somebody actualy used his brain... The airframes were still treated with "chromate-zink" paint, but landing-gear bay's, speed-brake area's and other hydraulicly operated area's where over-painted with white. Why ??? Well, hydraulic fluid has a transluscent red color which show's up pretty nicely against a white back-ground and that makes it pretty easy to detect possible leak's.   

 

Currently we are living in the "safety age". People are no longer allowed to use their brain and need to be protected against their own stupidity against all cost's. We all scream "risk analysis" but when somebody bumb's his head we no longer ask ourself if it is incidental, structual or pure stupidity. We immediatly start carving up tennis-ball's and stick them onto each & every sharp corner we can find. Now that's human progress for You...    

 

Oh well, being white or being red... Maybe a Spook-techie can chip in. Just as long as You are enjoying Your build (and I'm sure You are), that's all that matters in the end.

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

 

 

 

Rudy, yes, nothing is ever sure. Most white ones I see in photos are on museum (USAF) F-4E's, likely repainted. I've asked on HS, and one reply said all he ever saw were red ones, so that is what I'm sticking with.

 

Cheers

[Shujaa]

"Wahtever float's Your boat", Leon. It's all OK with me since it's Your model and it's simply not my style to tell anybody what they need to do... I've build many models myself which afterwards turned out not to be 100% accurate. Still, I didn't look differently upon them.   

 

The nav-light sure look good. Please do share Your resin-casting project. As You know I've got some "replication-work" in store myself so I sure would like to see how You go about things.

 

Since You're starting with the camo, decalling isn't far away I guess. When it comes to placing the 32nd markings on the intakes: keep them off for the time being. The DD-decals aren't bad but I always get the feeling they are lagging behind, compared to other AM-decals...   I MIGHT have a usefull alternative for You. I'll have a look at things coming weekend & let You know via e-mail. "Stay tuned..."

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

[Grunticus]

4 minutes ago, Shujaa said:

"Wahtever float's Your boat", Leon. It's all OK with me since it's Your model and it's simply not my style to tell anybody what they need to do... I've build many models myself which afterwards turned out not to be 100% accurate. Still, I didn't look differently upon them.   

 

The nav-light sure look good. Please do share Your resin-casting project. As You know I've got some "replication-work" in store myself so I sure would like to see how You go about things.

 

Since You're starting with the camo, decalling isn't far away I guess. When it comes to placing the 32nd markings on the intakes: keep them off for the time being. The DD-decals aren't bad but I always get the feeling they are lagging behind, compared to other AM-decals...   I MIGHT have a usefull alternative for You. I'll have a look at things coming weekend & let You know via e-mail. "Stay tuned..."

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

 

I've sprayed the underside already, and am now touching up some seams and smoothing out the surface topside because I keep seeing more imperfections. When I copy the parts in resin I will show what I did here. I am scratching my head on how to copy the TISEO. I think a two-part cast is the only way.

 

Funny you mention the 32nd badge. I've looked a bit closer at the decal sheet today and indeed they are not the best, especially the badges, they are a little soft. So, your prospect for an alternative make me all-ears! I\ll wait with putting the Dutch Decal ones on.

 

Cheers

 

p.s. The 501 Hikotai badge images you mailed are absolutely reproducible with the Silhouette cutter, so consider them coming somewhere within the next few weeks.

[Shujaa]

1 hour ago, Grunticus said:

Funny you mention the 32nd badge. I've looked a bit closer at the decal sheet today and indeed they are not the best, especially the badges, they are a little soft. So, your prospect for an alternative make me all-ears! I\ll wait with putting the Dutch Decal ones on.

 

Cheers

 

p.s. The 501 Hikotai badge images you mailed are absolutely reproducible with the Silhouette cutter, so consider them coming somewhere within the next few weeks.

 

Yep, it's a little bit sad because DD-decals cover a lot of interesting subjects. Sadly, when it comes to delicate detailed decals they are often "soft" as You call it and also often slightly off-centered....   

 

IF my idea is feasible, You might be able to reproduce them in a much better quality. However...:   IF   !!!

 

Good to hear that my provided material regarding the 501 Hikotai markings are workable. As mentioned: I'm not in a rush. Furthermore: if my 32nd markings idea is feasible You might be able to help me out a little bit more...      I'm afraid I have to offer You a contract soon for "customized work"...      Oh well, as mentioned in my e-mail: we'll work something out.   

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

 

P.S.:

Been working a bit on the AGM-78 & AGM-88. Sweet stuff !!! I might even kick off my Spook-plan's with the Wild Weasel.   

[MikeMaben]

[Grunticus]

I started with the base color of sand, and then it was time for a bit of masking for the lighter green. I tried to stay as true to the photos of 74-1054 as I could.

 

 

Then more masking. It was tedious, but worth it. Below with all masking done:

 

 

And after a marathon masking- and airbrush session this was the result. Now most all of my builds come with cock-ups (like ripping the top antenna off when removing the tape), but the base has become really good, and I'm quite happy with the end result. Some corrections and touch-ups are still needed as usual (for me).

 

 

The fin tip color is a custom-mix, the 32nd used a very deep shade of orange (as a tribute to our monarchy, De Oranje's).

 

Cheers!

 

Edit: Touch-ups, corrections, and radome done. Ready for decals. Of course later the TISEO and strike cameras will also be added, first I will try to copy them.

 

 

 

Edited November 17 by Grunticus

[LSP_Kevin]

Very crisp paint work!

 

Kev

[Shujaa]

"Ain't she looking pretty..."   

 

Looking good Leon. Very nice colors, allthough I think the contrast between the two tones of green is a little bit high. However, I'm pretty sure photography in general never (hardly ever) represents the real-life colors. Furthermore I'm sure everything will blend nicely once the decals are applied and she has received some weathering TLC. Besides, a high contrast can always be subdued whereas the other way around is a little bit more difficult to achieve.    

 

Look's like the finishline is coming in sight rapidly and I'm looking forward to see her all dressed up with decals and all the other sweet goodies that are awaiting her.

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

 

P.S.:

Hope the scan's will work out should You decide to give it a try...

[Grunticus]

22 hours ago, Shujaa said:

"Ain't she looking pretty..."   

 

Looking good Leon. Very nice colors, allthough I think the contrast between the two tones of green is a little bit high. However, I'm pretty sure photography in general never (hardly ever) represents the real-life colors. Furthermore I'm sure everything will blend nicely once the decals are applied and she has received some weathering TLC. Besides, a high contrast can always be subdued whereas the other way around is a little bit more difficult to achieve.    

 

Look's like the finishline is coming in sight rapidly and I'm looking forward to see her all dressed up with decals and all the other sweet goodies that are awaiting her.

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.

 

P.S.:

Hope the scan's will work out should You decide to give it a try...

 

Thanks Rudy, I like the contrast, a flat coat will subdue it a bit. I will keep weathering to my normal levels of panel line washes.

 

The elevators are glued in place. I used a little cardboard template to achieve the correct angle. I see now that the tail trailing edge still needs a small touch-up due to orange over-spray (lower photo).

 

 

I started work on copying the Academy TISEO, this is the first time I am trying something lie this. First I punched a few disks in a slightly smaller diameter compared to the parts and put two of them on the mating surfaces of the TISEO parts. The only way to get a usable copy is to make a two-part mold, just like the kit parts are. These disks create a casting block that will make it easy to separate the parts, with a clear cutting guide.

 

 

Both parts are prepared to make the mould. The holes serve as an escape for the air when I pour the silicone.

 

 

The parts were glued to a plate which will be the lid on the container holding the silicone.

 

 

All done, now we wait 24 hrs. Lets hope this setup allows for removing the parts relatively easily. The tabs on the forward TISEO part might prove problematic. We'll see. I could have done the strike camera's with this in one go, but 1. I'm impatient and eager to see how it goes, and 2. The base plates of the cameras are angled and I am still thinking what would be the best way to copy them, short of cutting off the cameras and copy them separate from the base-plate part.

 

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

[Grunticus]

The resin I had had been sitting for three+ years. I could not get al the sediment that had settled to mix in again. I suspect it was way past it's shelf life time. Nonetheless I made an attempt out of curiosity and eagerness. As you can see the color is not homogeneous, so clearly something was not right with the resin. Still, the parts came out pretty good, given the previous! I've learned one or two things from my first pour ever, so I will order fresh resin (and other supplies like small pill-containers for mixing) and try again. I could use these, but no. There are some imperfections.

 

 

Today I masked both canopies, and it occurred to me that the rear-view mirrors are prominently visible with open canopies, yet they are missing from Revell's rendition. I made scratch ones from the thinnest stock I have, and some evergreen to act as a little supports, for easier mounting later on. After designing them in Silhouette Studio the stock was then scored with the Silhouette cutter which worked well. I then cut the parts out further with a razor blade using the scoring as visual aids, and sanded everything smooth before gluing and painting. They look pretty neat.

 

 

Yes @Shujaa, I'll include a set of blanks with the 501 Hikotai masks if you want them (and a TISEO?)

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

[Shujaa]

22 hours ago, Grunticus said:

Yes @Shujaa, I'll include a set of blanks with the 501 Hikotai masks if you want them (and a TISEO?)

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You are referring to the 32nd shield & crest with "a set of blanks" ? If so, do not hesitate to make it a "double set" (2x shield & 2x crest). I'm kinda "stuck" with a spare F-4F so I'm contemplating two 32nd bird's: 1x "early" & 1x "late" F-4E. How cool would that be...???

 

"(and a TISEO?)"

"Do I dare to ask..."   Now that would be sweet.            

 

Thank's a lot for sharing Your "reproduction-proces" Leon. It look's like You used a "silicone tube" to create a mould...??? Also pretty clever to use the lid of a shaving-cream (???) can. Cool idea's !      I'll keep them in mind for sure.

 

The mirrors are looking sweet and they will surely enhance the look of the bird with the canopies in the open position. Pretty sweet Revell also included the boarding-ladder.      Besides a nice colorful splash of yellow, she sure is going to look cool once finished. Don't forget to scratch some chock's...   

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.  

[Grunticus]

2 hours ago, Shujaa said:

 

 

You are referring to the 32nd shield & crest with "a set of blanks" ? If so, do not hesitate to make it a "double set" (2x shield & 2x crest). I'm kinda "stuck" with a spare F-4F so I'm contemplating two 32nd bird's: 1x "early" & 1x "late" F-4E. How cool would that be...???

 

"(and a TISEO?)"

"Do I dare to ask..."   Now that would be sweet.            

 

Thank's a lot for sharing Your "reproduction-proces" Leon. It look's like You used a "silicone tube" to create a mould...??? Also pretty clever to use the lid of a shaving-cream (???) can. Cool idea's !      I'll keep them in mind for sure.

 

The mirrors are looking sweet and they will surely enhance the look of the bird with the canopies in the open position. Pretty sweet Revell also included the boarding-ladder.      Besides a nice colorful splash of yellow, she sure is going to look cool once finished. Don't forget to scratch some chock's...   

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.  

 

Rudy, two 32nd birds would be very cool! With blanks I meant the six mirrors, but a shield can also be done. It really isn't a lot of work to make masks. I used two-component silicone mould stuff, and yes, in a shaving cream lid. I had nothing else at hand. It works I will pour an extra TISEO for you (is one enough?)

 

Today I prepared a lot of masks for this one, and airbrushed the star-and-bars on using some of the masks. They still need touch-ups and there are slight ridges I need to take care of. This was the last time I used Oramask 810 for this, they just do not cut it for a lot of some situations. Masks cut from Tamiya sheets are harder to position, but no paint ever creeps under it, it never lifts by itself, Oramask does.

 

Oh, and the boarding ladder did not survive my attempts to finish it, so no ladder for now but I will contact Revell and test their customer service. The yellow sure does add a colorful note to the kit. Chocks...would you shut up now? More work..... The Academy did come with a whole bunch of RBF ribbons..... No, no. A clean Phantom with a ladder, and then I stop.

 

On the topic of customer service: did I mention already that they promptly sent replacement parts free of charge? They already arrived.

 

 

 

BTW the 'CR' and '054' look a little less white than the white star in the national insignia, but also less grey than the already very light underside grey. Is it a kind of off-white? As you already pointed out Dutch Decal's grey rendition on the decal sheet is totally off.

 

 

 

[Shujaa]

Mighty nice offer Leon.      If You want to, and if it's not too much trouble, You can (of course) send me some mirror's as well but I think I already have them covered. The resin ejection-seat's from Verlinden come with a small brass fret which has a pair of mirrors on it. I'm thinking of putting them on a piece of plastic-card, spray some paint over them and use the "silhouette's" as "reproduction-templates".      Still, anything is welcome my friend.   

 

She's staring to look better & better with each update. The extra splash of color from the "stars & bars" surely look good. 

Keep up the good work.

 

Kind regards,

 

Rudy.