sandbagger Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 (edited) Hi all, The pre-shading has been applied to the fuselage, wings and flight surfaces. I've attempted to represent the engine as best I could, given that the kit supplied moulding is the worst I've seen. The single piece engine is misaligned so there is a step at each side of the cylinders. Only 6 inlet manifolds were in the kit, there should be nine (replaced with spare 'Roden' manifolds). No valve gear or push rods or spark plugs either. The kit engine had to used as no other replacement engine would fit inside the engine cowl. In fact I had to remove the top of four cylinders to get the kit engine to fit (the can't be seen in the cowl). I've used the resin propeller in the kit but replaced the centre boss plate with a spare 'GasPatch' part. I've discarded the kit supplied wheels and replaced them with 'GasPatch' spoked wheels. Mike Edited July 6, 2021 by sandbagger Archimedes, Trak-Tor, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archimedes Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 Hi Mike, First, thank you for the advice on soldering! Absolute gold dust. The Mosca build looks great. It is always impressive to see such a rudimentary kit turned into something much more refined and piece by piece we can see this happening thanks to your well honed skills. Thank you for sharing the build! Good luck with the next steps! Best regards, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 Hi all, The linen decals have now been applied. White primed base coat, polished then pre-shaded with 'thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19). The decals were cut from a sheet of the ‘Aviattic’ Clear Doped Linen (CDL) bleached (ATT32044). The Russian cockard decals supplied in the kit are ink jet printed and not 'cookie' cut. Typical of these type of decals, that are very easily surface damaged, before or after application. If possible, I'll probably airbrush the cockards using templates - we'll see. Mike scvrobeson, LSP_Kevin, Dart_Schatten and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 10, 2021 Author Share Posted July 10, 2021 Hi all, I thought of replacing the Russian markings using masks and airbrushing the three colours. However, aligning concentric circles accurately and without over spray was always going to be tricky. Therefore I decide to print the decals instead, using an Inkjet printer, not Laser. This is the process I used: Create the decal in Photoshop Pro software or similar. Test print on paper to check size. NOTE: As the centre of the Russian markings are white, I used Mr. Decal White decal paper, to avoid the surface below the applied decal showing through too much. Place the decal paper into the printer feeder tray with the glossy side facing up. Adjust the printer setting for the paper to ‘Premium Gloss Photo paper’ or equivalent and set the print resolution to high. Print the decal sheet. Leave the printed decal sheet for several hours to allow the ink to fully dry. NOTE: During the following step, do not apply too much sealer over the decals, as it can flood the surface and when dry cause a ’fish eye’ effect. Also spray at a shallow angle to the decal sheet, not at 90 degrees and at a distance of 12 inches or more away. Wear a respirator and spray in a well ventilated area. Apply a several light coats of sealer over the decals, using such as ’Krylon’ Acryli-Quik acrylic lacquer or similar. Allow each coat to thoroughly dry before applying another coat. Check decals are fully covered and sealed with the clear coat. NOTE: If using White decal paper, make sure you cut around the decals as close to the outline as possible, to avoid the white decal paper showing at the edges. Carefully cut as close as possible around the decal to remove it from the backing sheet. Make sure the model surface is smooth and has clear gloss acrylic coat, such as ’Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600 or similar. NOTE: Adding PVA adhesive (white glue) to the water, used to detach the decal from its backing paper, can improve adhesion of the decal to the model and help prevent ‘silvering’ (trapped air) under the decal. Also take care not to ‘stretch’ the decals when removing the water. Apply the decals to the model as for standard water slide decals. Mike Archimedes, Trak-Tor, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archimedes Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 (edited) Hi Mike, Did you hear that? That was the sound of my jaw hitting the floor comparing what you started with to what you have now; absolutely first rate work! Great stuff. Best regards, Paul Edited July 10, 2021 by Archimedes Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Love it! Great work... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Wouldn't have thought of printing my own decals, but it really looks like it worked for this build. Almost across the finish line. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Hi all, The weathering has been applied and sealed. 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt and Grime fine clay washes. Now onto the pre-rigging before construction, Mike Landrotten Highlander, scvrobeson, Archimedes and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Very convincing grime, Mike! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Hi all, A bit of progress. The carburettor air intakes, engine landing gear and wheels have been fitted. Also the tail unit, consisting of upper and lower rudders, tail plane, control horns and rudder/elevator control lines. Finally the tail skid assembly including the 'bungee' type suspension cords. The next step is to pre-rig the wing warping control lines and bracing wires before the wings are fitted, Mike Brett M, scvrobeson, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Looks great. Spoked wheels just always look awesome, but so precarious at the same time. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Wonderful Mike! You definitely have this "wood and wire crate" building down to a fine art. Cheers, Wolf scvrobeson 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 Hi all, I've pre-rigged the two wings with 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube, 'GasPatch 1:48th Type turnbuckles and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament. A line is passed through a tube and turnbuckle then back through the tube and secured. The free end of the line is then passed through a hole in the wing and a tube and turnbuckle added. The end result if a free moving and double ended turnbuckle, which should self-align when the landing and wing warp lines are attached to the free end of the turnbuckles. The two V struts are also fitted with wing warp control cables fitted to the rear strut. Finally, I've added the tail plane control lever and cable to the fuselage underside. Now onto fitting the wings and support frame, Mike LSP_Kevin and scvrobeson 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbagger Posted July 14, 2021 Author Share Posted July 14, 2021 Hi all, Wings and V strut support frame fitted. Now onto the rigging, Mike Landrotten Highlander, kensar, Archimedes and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archimedes Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 That is becoming a silk purse from a sow’s ear Mike! This is top drawer stuff. Best regards, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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