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sandbagger

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Everything posted by sandbagger

  1. Hi all, The cockpit is now complete. As I found with the engine, the cockpit required a lot of modifications and additions to bring it up to looking more like the actual aircraft cockpit. Basically, the modifications and additions made were as follows: Fuselage inner side walls heavily thinned and both assembled machine guns modified to allow the guns to sit in their correct positions in the cockpit. Forward bulkhead repositioned as the kit instructions were incorrect. Support bar for the instrument panel and climb indicator replaced with micro-tube (kit part too short). Cockpit rear padding created from ‘Milliput’ (kit photo-etch part unusable). Cockpit forward edge padding bead added (not in the kit). Pilot’s seat – addition holes in the seat back. Pilot’s seat – slots created for the seat belts. Pilot’s seat – seat support frame created (not in the kit). Pilot’s foot board assembly modified to allow the control column to be positioned further away from the pilot’s seat. Pilot’s seat top attachment to rear bulkhead added. Panel switches replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic). ‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto added (not in kit). ‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto safety switch added (not in the kit). Tachometer ‘scratch’ replaced (kit part too large). Engine half compression lever and control rod added (not in the kit). Fuel contents pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire. Oil pressure pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire. Micro-tube used for control rods (Half compression control, Spark advance control, Fuel mixture control). Cockpit window ports created using clear acetate sheet and in-filled with ‘Krystal Clear’. Rudder control cables added (0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.12 mm mono-filament). Hole drilled through right side of fuselage (at engine forward right support strut location) – for cockpit controls to engine. Control column machine gun triggers replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic). Machine gun trigger cables added (‘PlusModels’ lead wire). Other than that, the cockpit was built straight out of the box!! I forgot to take completion shots of the cockpits internals before closing it up. However, there is the one shot on the cockpit floor assembly finished. In the following photographs, the two ‘white discs’ are the cockpit window ports – the ‘Krystal Clear’ was still setting when I took the photographs, Mike
  2. Hi all, The cockpit has been modified to correct and add components not supplied in the kit. Corrected: Positioning of both machine guns (rearwards into the cockpit and closer to the cockpit side walls). Replacement instrument panel support bar (kit part too short). Control rod for Mixture control and Spark advance levers replaced (too weak). Tachometer replaced (kit part too large). Added: Fuel panel switches (0.3 mm tube). Mixture control and Spark advance control rods (x2) (0.4 mm tube).. Starter magneto ('Taurus Models'). Starter magneto safety switch ('Taurus Models'). Replacement Tachometer (from sprue). Half compression operating lever and control rod (spare photo-etch and 0.4 mm tube). Cockpit front edge padding ('ANYZ' 0.5 mm braided line). After painting I will add: The fuel contents and oil pressure pipes to the instrument panel. Wiring for the starter magneto and safety switch. Tachometer drive shaft. Instrument decals (not supplied in the kit). Transparencies for the two 'windows'. Flight control cables. The shots below show the primed cockpit components dry fitted (except control column). Mike
  3. Hi all, I've gone as far as I can modifying the resin kit engine to better resemble the actual 'Isotta Fraschini V4B’ engine. The shots below show it primed and dry fitted, including replacement exhaust pipes made from 1.4 mm diameter tube. It's the longest engine modification I've undertaken thus far, but hopefully it'll be worth it. So now, it's time to move onto modifying the cockpit area !! Mike
  4. Hi all, Two pipes were connected to the underside of the coolant return pipe, located at the top of the engine. The two pipes were routed across to the other side of the engine, between the end and centre cylinder banks. The purpose for these two pipes is not clear or to where on the engine they were eventually connected. As the pipes were connected to the coolant return pipe, it would seem hot coolant from the engine was carried in the pipes. My only assumption is that these pipes supplied hot coolant to the housings of the two carburettors, thereby ’pre-heating’ both of the carburettors. This would have helped preventing icing up, which may have been more of a problem for seaplanes more than land based aircraft. The pipes were made from 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube. Mike
  5. Hi all, I've added the external oil pipes at the propeller end of the engine. These made from 0.7 mm and 0.4 mm brass tube, Mike
  6. Hi all, Just a quick update for the engine modifications. The valve operating gear is now done - made from 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm thick plastic card.. The shots below show the dry fit of: Carburettor and induction manifolds Ignition lead support tubes Coolant supply and return pipes. All that's left now are a couple of external oil pipes and it should be ready to start painting and building the engine. Other items such as ignition leads, engine placard plates etc can't be added until the engine build is completed, Mike
  7. Hi all, I've been working the last few days on ways to better represent the valve operating gear for this engine, as the kit supplied photo-etch is not very realistic. After trying converted photo-etch, card and other methods, I decided to go with this. This is not meant to accurately 'reproduce' the engines valve gear, but more to 'represent' it as the kit engine does not lend itself easily to this modification. The operating levers are made as two separate levers from 0.5 mm thick plastic card. The levers are shaped then joined at the centre and secured to their individual operating shafts. The bottom of the push rods were marked on the engine then drilled with a 0.6 mm diameter drill. Nickel-Silver rod of 0.4 mm diameter was cut and secured in each drilled hole and against the end of the levers. Finally a 0.51 mm hexagonal nut (from 'RB Motions' was added to the top of each rod. Once all of the push rods are done I need to add the pivot lever between each pair of rods. Mike
  8. Hi all, Twelve spark plugs with ignition leads. Made from 0.5 mm diameter tube with 0.28 mm diameter copper wire (annealed) leads. Fitted into 0.6 mm diameter holes drilled into both sides of each cylinder bank. Now it's onto the really tricky valve operating gear, Mike
  9. Hi all, A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds. Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors. The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled. Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick). Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe. Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later). Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe. Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs, Mike
  10. Hi all, I thought I'd explain why I'm attempting to detail the engine as much as I am. Normally if the engine is partly or totally covered by airframe or engine panels, there would be less reason to detail the engine as much. However the Macchi M.5, even with the engine under tray and side panels fitted, was mostly visible. The particular aircraft I'm attempting to model is 'FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’, Serial No.7288 as flown by Tenente DV Alberto Bartolozzo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918. That particular aircraft did not have the engine side panels fitted and so the entire engine was fully exposed. The engine is a primary focal point for anyone looking at the model. Therefore I felt that it was important to rectify the apparent omissions and errors with the kit supplied engine. Mike
  11. Hi all, The kit supplied engine carburettors and their intake manifolds are not correct for this engine and need to be drastically modified to make them represent the actual engine. The photographs below is one of several that show what the fuel supply components on the engine actually looked like, which is not how the kit engine parts are made. Basically: The two carburettors need to be separated. The two carburettors need air intake openings. The two inlet manifold pipes need to be modified. The vertical drop pipes were cut away from the three ported header pipes. The three ported header pipes were cut and extended using a 0.5 mm diameter pin, so that the three ports aligned correctly with the cylinder heads. The vertical drop pipes were shortened and had a 0.5 mm diameter pin inserted in the tops, which were inserted into a hole drilled in the underside of the extended three ported header pipes. This was done to correctly align the drop pipes to between the cylinder banks. The joined kit carburettors were separated and each attached to the bottom of the drop pipes with 0.5 mm pin. Finally the 90 degree bend that was cut away from the drop pipes were used to create the air intakes under the carburettors. There's a way to go on each of the two assemblies, such as filling and sanding and the addition of the interconnected fuel supply pipes and throttle controls etc. Those components will have to be scratched, Mike
  12. Hi all, I believe the cooling system operates as follows: A coolant pipe is attached to one side of the engine. The pipe connects each of the three cylinder banks. Coolant is drawn through a pipe from the bottom of the radiator by the pump. The pump then supplies coolant through the engine pipe into the cylinder cooling jackets. The coolant passes up inside the cooling jackets and out through cylinder connectors to a return pipe on the opposite, top side of the engine. From there the coolant flows back to the radiator to be cooled. I created the pump to cylinder feed pipe using 0.9 mm tube with 1.1 mm diameter collars. The flexible pipe to the pump is 0.8 mm diameter lead wire. The larger return pipe is 1.4 mm diameter tube with six 0.8 mm holes drilled into one side to align with the six 90 degree pipe connectors, made from annealed and bent 0.8 mm tube. Holes of 0.8 mm diameter were drilled vertically down into the engine lugs at one side of the valves on that side of the engine. The connectors were then located into the engine and return pipe, Mike
  13. Hi all, On each side of the engine are flat section tubes that are attached at the bottom of the cylinder heads. These tubes retain and support the six ignition leads on each side of the engine. The kit supplies photo-etch parts which need to be bent to represent the two support tubes. However, when created, these photo-etch tubes are much larger than shown in the photographs. Also, once bent over, they create a flat, double thick 'plate' rather than a flat section tube. Therefore I decided to create the two support tubes using micro-tube. Two brass tubes of 1.6 mm diameter, annealed to soften them then semi-flattened in smooth jaw vice. The ends were filed to a 60 degree angle then two holes of 0.5 mm diameter drilled into the inboard sides. Brass pins of 0.5 mm diameter were secured in these holes and corresponding location holes drilled into the base of the cylinder banks. Mike
  14. Hi all, The engine was fitted with a water pump for the cooling system. On the actual engine the pump was located forward (radiator end) of the engine, below the magnetos and engine sump/crank case joint. I wanted to represent the water pump and its pipe work, but due to space restrictions, I had to locate it higher on the engine than was actually the case. The kit engine has a pronounced 'step' in the engine sump at the end facing the radiator (forward end). This 'step' is intended to fit under the installed radiator. I've cut away this 'step' and fitted two propeller shaft housings from my spares box to recreate the previously rounded end of the sump. To one side I've added a modified water pump, again from my spares box. Still more to do - plugs and wiring, ignition lead support tubes, oil filler pipes and what pipe work and controls I can fit. The whole assembly still needs cleaning up and painting of course. Mike
  15. Hi all, Work continues on modifying the kit engine to represent what the engine actually looked like. I've now added a 'camshaft' below the 3 vale lever shafts from 1.8 mm diameter tube. Also added a pair of 'Taurus' magnetos and a drive shaft (from the spares box). Finally the drive at the rear end of the engine (1.0 mm tube and drive head modified from spares). It's all a bit rough at the moment and I still need to add water pump and if possible and oil pump, plus their associated pipes (where possible). Also the ignition lead support tube etc. Mike
  16. Hi all, The radiator assembly done. This needs to be done now and added into the radiator housing and engine bottom fairing. Then I can start to work on the missing components at the forward end of the engine, such as magnetos, pipes etc, Mike
  17. Hi all, The valve operation on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine is strange by comparison to other in-line engines of the period. Normally the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder would be operated from a single overhead 'camshaft'. However photographs and drawing for this engine show three separate shafts, each operating the valves for its cylinder bank. I can only assume the drive for the three shafts is located below them in the lower half of the overall housing, which is not represented on the kit part. The kit part, including the inlet manifolds seems to have been modelled more on that fitted, for example, on the Daimler-Mercedes in-line engines. I've modified the overhead operating shaft by cutting it into the three sections, removing the kit shaft and replacing it with 1.8 mm diameter tubing. This required some re-profiling of the operating shaft mountings at each end of the engine (radiator and propeller shaft ends), including 2 mm extension to fit to the end vertical drives. The tubes still need to be blocked at each end as the shafts were solid, not tubular. This has also shown up several other areas of the engine that require attention (so far): Both inlet manifolds and the two carburettors are incorrectly moulded - the manifolds too long and wrong shape - the carburettors are joined, but in fact were separately located. No spark plugs location. No water pump supplied in the kit. Mike
  18. Hi all, The rear edge of the cockpit rim was fitted with shoulder padding which is not in the kit. I represented this padding using 'Milliput' putty. Once it has fully cured I'll clean it up. The photo-etch supplied with the kit has part 19, which is intended to represent a curved support for the top of the pilot’s seat, although I could not find any references to this type of seat support. However photographs do show a fixture connecting the top, rear edge of the seat to the rear bulkhead of the cockpit. I represented this fixing using 0.5 plastic rod. The inlet and exhaust valves on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine are operated by an overhead shaft. The kit shaft is moulded as one shaft. The actual engine had three separate shafts. Also the shaft mounting to the engine do not align. I'll correct by cutting away the mountings from the shaft then drill out the three segments and insert brass tubes. Mike
  19. Hi all, Here are the final reveal shots of the WW1 Austro-Hungarian Aviatik 'Berg' D.I fighter, operating with Flik 63J during 1918. 1:32 scale resin model from the Czech company 'HPH Models. Gaspatch turnbuckles, micro-tube and mono-filament used for the rigging. Laminated wood propeller from 'ProperPlane'. Figure from Grass mat for display base from 'Polak'. Paint used were 'Tamiya' acryics. Figure - ‘Copper State Models’ Austro-Hungarian flying ace (F32-032). My usual full and detailed PDF build log is available to download from gallery 2 on my site (link below). Mike
  20. Bader standing figures https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/273423906826?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=273423906826&targetid=910044634207&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006467&poi=&campaignid=1669190336&mkgroupid=88374263757&rlsatarget=pla-910044634207&abcId=578896&merchantid=9337634&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqp30l8yB5wIViZntCh1cGgYAEAQYBSABEgLdy_D_BwE http://barracudacals.com/products.php?cat=12
  21. Hi all, Pilot's seat modified: Thickness of seat back reduced. Seat belt slots added. Seat back rolled edge added (0.4 mm lead wire. Mike
  22. Hi all, There's still a lot of detail to do for the cockpit area, including thinning and roll edging the seat as well as adding the bulk head seat fixing at the top of the seat. Also the seat needs to have the access for the seat belts to pass through, as the kit instructions show them positioned over the sides of the seat, not through it, Mike
  23. Hi all, I've modified the pilot's foot boards and seat support to: Cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat. Added more lightening holes in the seat back, as per the official drawing. Added the 'V' shaped support (made from thick paper) below the seat. This also housed the control column torque tube, aileron control bell crank and aileron control pulley and control cables. Added nail head indentations to the foot board to cross member joints. Mike
  24. Hi all, I've cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat. Also allows fitting of the 'V' shaped seat support. A notch was cut into the centre cross member on the hull floor to allow the torque bar of the control column to be adhered to the hull floor (better support) These changes will allow the control column to be positioned further away from the front of the pilot's seat, Mike
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