RLWP Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Here's a photo that better illustrates what's what. This particular photo is also handy, in that it depicts the typical horizontal tail and elevator overlap of the turquoise. On your particular scheme, this doesn't really matter, and in fact tail surfaces were routinely over-painted, but just thrown in for informational purposes. To me, that pattern has always looked like someone putting on thin paint with a very big brush as quickly as possible. Imagine standing to the side of the tail and brushing quickly. You are as likely to get the streaks at an angle as straight up and down Richard BiggTim and coogrfan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I've gotten so intrigued with the F.I/Dr.I again, that I photographed my Roden F.I kit for a review here on LSP in the next day or so. BiggTim, CANicoll and Shawn M 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I thought you might find this interesting. MikeC, CANicoll and BiggTim 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olgerd83 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Chris, nice start and it's a wonderful choice of prototype to be build. Here my Roden's model, but F.1 type, any way the plastic is the same. To make "rain" camo I used oil paints, but prior I had covered all model with light blue paint http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=45381&hl= Also I want to say that upper wing and tail should be painted this scheme firstly and covered with red paint in order to first layer of "rain" will be visible. That's why I think you should repaint tail BiggTim and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 It's an interesting point, Oleg. Some modelers do add the streaks first, then over-paint. The problem that I have with this approach, is that the clear dope applied over the streaked finish, dried to a fairly even and smooth sheen, so brush strokes, as such, are virtually nonexistent in the final finish. The exception to this problem, would be when over-painting dark shades with white (or any other light color), where the lighter color is not applied in a uniformly dense coat, allowing the paint or dope colors below to show through. When large areas were over-painted with a dark color though, like the red on MvR's tripe, I believe virtually none of the streaking below, would show through. It's a personal choice really, and one that I don't actually see as being necessary. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I'm beginning to wish that I hadn't stumbled upon this article, now I'm on Sprue Brothers, looking for AM items for my own F.I kit! Does it ever end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I'm beginning to wish that I hadn't stumbled upon this article, now I'm on Sprue Brothers, looking for AM items for my own F.I kit! Does it ever end? The Eduard etch is good - only I think it based on a preserved aeroplane. Much of the cockpit stuff doesn't match WWI Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Here is what I did last night. I had an entire thread showing the steps and results and was trying to post to the Tips forum, but lost the message before it posted. It was late but I'll try and get it posted this evening. The one wing is still wet. Chris LSP_K2 and RLWP 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 I thought you might find this interesting. NICE!!! I'm pleasantly surprised at how close what I did last night looks to these examples. Thanks for the help!! LSP_K2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Chris Amazing work and I'm beginning to think The Great War is a bit contagious Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 First off , I'll be honest by saying that I'm completely ignorant of the whole streaking process. Secondly, I'm wondering what the idea behind diagonal streaking is. Not being a wise or anything. Just need a little education on it is all. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 The Eduard etch is good - only I think it based on a preserved aeroplane. Much of the cockpit stuff doesn't match WWI Richard I actually prefer the PART set, but have/had the Eduard set,... just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 NICE!!! I'm pleasantly surprised at how close what I did last night looks to these examples. Thanks for the help!! For whatever it's worth, the top of the axle wing, was usually just green, not streaked, sorry. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 The mid wing looks real nice, Chris. I am very seriously considering cranking up my F.I kit, so that I can do Voss' F.I 103/17. I have the Model Cellar Voss figure that's just awesome, but I'm not sure I can do it justice. I did my last one brown, but I'll do this one green, already have the green artist oil (along with a bottle of Liquin). Just what I need, to start yet another model. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I actually prefer the PART set, but have/had the Eduard set,... just in case. I suspect I have used both, I'm pretty sure some Tom's Modelworks stuff went in as well Richard CANicoll, LSP_K2 and Shawn M 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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