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1/32 Matchbox/Revell kitbashery Westland P.12 Wendover


Rob1970

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If I did a Tony Montana when modelling I'd have all sorts glued everywhere.................!!

 

Question, the brushes you use for super glue, are they dead when finished with or do you use something to take the super glue off?

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If I did a Tony Montana when modelling I'd have all sorts glued everywhere.................!!

 

Question, the brushes you use for super glue, are they dead when finished with or do you use something to take the super glue off?

 

Oh, those brushes? They've passed on! Those brushes are no more! They have ceased to be! They've expired and have gone to meet their maker! Bereft of life, they rest in peace! Their metabolic processes are now history! They've kicked the bucket, they've shuffled off their mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleeding choir invisibile!!

 
THESE ARE EX-BRUSHES!!
 
But at 3 cents each, I think the budget will survive...
 
 
Cheers,
Rob
 
PS; Avoid the ones labelled "For Modellers"... for some reason that increases the price tenfold...
Edited by Rob1970
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Time for some crossmembers... I started with the bottom of the frame, and my first plan was cutting pieces of 2x2mm styrene strip and just glueng them in between the two side frames. 

Yeah... after getting 3 pieces glued on, all of them crooked, I went back to what I know... 

More jigsawing!!

I marked out the width of the crossmembers on a sheet of 2mm styrene, then drew my frame and got to sawing again.

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Sanded all the tubes round, then cut out the piece from the sheet. A lot sturdier and a lot less fiddly than separate pieces. Why did I even try that...

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Cross piece fixed to the side piece. My template is still useful, as you can see.

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I cut some discs with my poor-man's punch...

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...and welded them onto the frame over the glue connection to make it a little more sturdy. They are on the bottom, and after some sanding they will look like they are factory standard... wink.gif

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Then did the other side, with more discs for strength. And with that part in place, I had more rigidity to add a few single spacers.

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I'm being framed, I tell ya!!

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More sooooon!

Rob

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I must say that I probably would have approached making that frame with plastic tubing or by soldering brass tubing, because I wouldn't have thought this would work so well. You make it look easy and it's coming together really well!! I think my way would have sucked by comparison.

 

Tim

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I must say that I probably would have approached making that frame with plastic tubing or by soldering brass tubing, because I wouldn't have thought this would work so well. You make it look easy and it's coming together really well!! I think my way would have sucked by comparison.

 

Tim

 

Well, someone on another forum asked me; Was it easier to do it this way, instead of starting with round rods styrene ?

Short answer ; Yes.

 

Long answer ; Heck Yes!!!

 

A little longer answer ; Certainly. When you consider that the side frame alone would be made from 30 to 35 (depending on the way of building) pieces of round styrene, each in different lengths , with more than 25 connections in various angles. All vulnerabilities and opportunities to go in the wrong with regard to the dimensions or alignment.

 

With the alignment and dimensions almost nothing can go wrong, if you get your lines and angle straight on your sheet of styrene. And all connections are a lot stronger ( ie not glued but simply cut out whole from the sheet) and all your angles are Correct. Again depending of your marks and lines, but as the old adage goes; Measure twice. cut once.

 

Rob

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Another day, more tinkering...

I made a few cross-braces between the center of the frame using 2.4mm Evergreen tube and 1.2mm rod...

20160201_211659_zpspz8z72fa.jpg

...and fixed them between the upright frames by drilling 1.2mm holes. Using the rod as a dowel made for a much sturdier connection, better than solely flat surface contact would have made. Once the glue dried I just cut and sanded the dowel flush with the frame.

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Next I got two (Yes, two!) actual kit part out. The fuel tank looked a bit thin, so I sandwiched three pieces of 1mm sheet styrene between the halves and sanded them flush. 

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The tank looked a bit... bare, so I decided to make a couple of riveted bands to go around it. I started with a strip of 0.5mm styrenen 2mm wide and drilled 0.8mm holes in it spaced 5mm apart...

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Then cut a bunch of tiny 0.8mm styrene rods... Don't sneeze when you do that, by the way. You have to start all over again...

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I then glued the bits of rod into the holes...

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When the glued had dried I used a sanding sponge to sand down one side until the rods were sticking out a tiiiiny bit, and I sanded them flush on the other side. Did that twice and glued my strips to my tank. Sorted.

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Todays other work; made a plate for the turret to sit in. And noticed I need to bend in the two ends of the upright frames... Oh well... Also sorted the interior pieces to see what I can use, and what needs to be scratchbuilt. I'll have to check my references for that...

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I do know the seat could do with some improving (wartime Lysanders had a basket for the parachute that acted as the seat bottom) and the instrument panel could be better. I ordered some instrument decals for the dials, and will probably scratchbuild a new one.

Also on the to-do list; Ammunition boxes for the rear turret. I have some ammo belts from Eduard, but I am not sure which one to use. 

20160201_210154_zpsvtl7mgnk.jpg

Ofcourse I couldn't find any .303 belts in 1/32 scale, but I think the 1/35 scale .30 belts should be close enough. I might use the .50 belts tho, to give it some more "meat"... Any opinions?

More soooon!!

Rob

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