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Kitty Hawk Model 1/32 P-39Q/N


LSP_Kevin

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Nice, Kevin!!! The cockpit looks great, and you got a great start on the engine. I think you are right on the wiring; the way they have looks like fuel hard plumbing!

Attached is a pic I found on Wikimedia(for illustration purposes only)

 

Thanks, Ray. I found that photo too, and will definitely be using it as a reference.

 

Kev

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been sidetracked by the need to do a bit of behind-the-scenes work on the website lately, plus some work in the garden, but I've scratched out a little bit of time for the P-39. One area that needs a bit of attention is the back of the pilot's headrest:

 

n5beHl.jpg

 

So, at the top we have some damage caused by an ejector pin, created half a raised one interbred with half a recessed one. In the middle we have a large indent that represents the rear of the padded headrest on the front of the part, and at the bottom there's a recessed ejector pin mark. All this on one small part!

 

I elected to fill it with my usual combination of CA and talc, mostly because it dries relatively quickly compared to traditional putties. This time, however, after curing and sanding, it still hadn't filled that hole properly, so I followed up with some straight CA gel and accelerator. Well, I used too much accelerator, and it had a nasty effect on the plastic. I regret not taking a photo of it, now, but the plastic crazed quite deeply, and even seemed to start de-laminating. I'm hoping I've been able to sand it all out effectively, but have now attached it to the rear cockpit bulkhead as per the instructions. I'll give it a squirt of primer after the glue has cured.

 

Speaking of primer, one thing I've discovered with this model is that I probably should have washed all the parts prior to commencing construction, and the used a primer on them. Any place where I've used acrylic paints on the bare plastic has been problematic, with the paint rubbing off quite easily. With the aforementioned rear cockpit bulkhead, I was able to rub off around 50% of the Vallejo Bronze Green with a cotton bud, a couple of days after applying it. I was able to remove it completely by using another cotton bud soaked in tap water. Things seem much better if I use Mr. Surfacer first, which I'm trying to remember to do!

 

Ernie asked me privately about the state of my exhaust parts (ahem), as he found his to be fine. I remember them being difficult to remove without damage, with the sprue attachment points being relatively large, and in awkward places. There was also lots of flash, and clean-up and assembly was a right PITA.

 

Anyway, I hadn't really looked at them since setting them aside after gluing them all together, so I dialled up 'super macro' mode on the camera and put one under the lens:

 

xYLKDx.jpg

 

Given the PITA I remember them to be, this doesn't actually look too bad. Most of the opening seem round enough, and once cleaned up and painted, should look quite good. The small raised section on its back is the remains of the sprue attachment point. There's some scarring on some of them that I'll have to deal with.

 

Lastly for today, another instalment of what the heck were they thinking? Note the photo below:

 

ej1lQo.jpg

 

The rudder pedals are supposed to be sandwiched between the front and rear instrument panel parts, with the three moulded pins on each one lining up with the...wait...what? Oh...there's only two holes... :doh:

 

I'll have to carefully remove the centre pin on each rudder pedal. Or I could drill out the corresponding holes, but I don't trust myself to get the alignment right, or even to not drill right through the piece. It's easily fixable of course, but a bit odd.

 

Back when there's more!

 

Kev

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Thanks, guys. All those details in the front end are quite fiddly, so it's taking me quite some time to get it all together. I may have already missed my opportunity to add nose weights in useful places, which would be a bit of a bummer. We shall see!

 

Kev

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Thanks, Wolf. Ironically, I think using a white background makes setting the white balance more difficult. I just shoot in RAW now and try to sort it out in Photoshop.

 

Kev

 

There are a few ways to tackle WB issues Kev.  This link might be of help:

 

http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/how-to-get-white-balance-correct-in-camera-every-time--photo-1093

 

although avoid the White paper that he mentions - most copy paper is *not* pure White.  There are dedicated photography accessories that will do the trick.

 

Always shoot in RAW.  Make sure you get your exposures right too.  Don't trust the in camera exposure meter, get a good separate meter like a Sekonic which measures incident light (rather than reflective light).  

 

Hope this helps!

 

Dave

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I'm shooting in RAW by default these days, but sadly my camera is old, and far from state-of-the-art. I was hoping to be able to replace it this year, but so far the opportunity hasn't presented itself.

 

Kev

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Thanks, Peter. I'm shooting in RAW by default these days, but sadly my camera is old, and far from state-of-the-art. I was hoping to be able to replace it this year, but so far the opportunity hasn't presented itself.

 

Kev

 

old or new won't make a different to AWB/WB issues I'm afraid.  My 13 year old Canon EOS D60's AWB is no different to my 60D's no different (yes, you read the model numbers right!).  The only thing really improves between models imho is the AF and ISO performance.  

 

Dave

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