tucohoward Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 For scribing straight lines in plastic that is painted I use this <a href="http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_105&products_id=4797">tool</a>.You push it rather than pull it and it compresses the paint to make a smooth line. In general I scribe on bare plastic using the Tamiya scriber, which I love, and Dymo tape. I only use the needle in pin vise for template stuff. I also use the body shop thin blue plastic tape for curved lines. I usually use two layers to get a good edge to run the scriber against. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Paul Budzik Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 My methods... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqLXyWqkBoQ Paul Zero77 and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero77 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 What's the point of scribing on primed plastic rather than directly on the plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 He's not really scribing the plastic, he is just scribing the top layer of paint so that the primer shows through. I definitely want to try this method, I have just had trouble settling on a good primer to use. My tradition model primers are no more durable than paint, and I fear I would scribe through both the paint and the primer. I guess the answer is a heavier auto style primer, but I don't really have an airbrush that can handle that stuff at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Paul Budzik Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Zero...You might want to watch the video again, I think i covered your question. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqLXyWqkBoQ Maybe your YouTube player stalled ... scribing in a heavy coat of primer helps overcome the issues with scribing over disimilar materials, and it leaves a cleaner, finer line. Bryan, If you're thinking about a larger airbrush or spray gun, you might want to wait. The response and questions to the "Surface Primer" video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no ) has been such, that I have been in contact with Iwata and have a fair amount of great information that I'll be putting out in the next couple of videos. For now, I wouldn't rush into buying one of those airbrushes that someone slaps a fan cap on ... there is a whole lot more to it than that. Paul BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) I have just had trouble settling on a good primer to use. My tradition model primers are no more durable than paint, and I fear I would scribe through both the paint and the primer. I guess the answer is a heavier auto style primer, but I don't really have an airbrush that can handle that stuff at the moment. Very simple answer to that issue: Tamiyas Fine Primers; in white and gray. They go on like a DREAM straight out of the rattle can, are completely bomb proof when done, and get a great bit into the plastic for adhesion. As a matter of fact, when done, the white primer almost makes your model look like it was made from white plastic. This stuff dries like magic, and is really self leveling, so you get a baby's bottom smooth result: Edited January 15, 2015 by Out2gtcha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks Brian, but I was referring to a dark colored primer to try the "scribing through the paint" technique. I agree though...for general use the Tamiya primers are top notch....they are my current "go-tos" in fact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wouter Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Nice to see this discussion ongoing, lot's of good ideas and techniques. To add to the primer question I can now say: don't use the Vallejo primer. It doesn't bite at all into the plastic. When you start to sand it comes off very easily, revealing untouched plastic underneath. And yes, I have thoroughly cleaned the model before priming. Next time I will use a laquer primer like Alclad's or mayby i will try the Tamiya primer mentioned above. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Thanks Brian, but I was referring to a dark colored primer to try the "scribing through the paint" technique. I agree though...for general use the Tamiya primers are top notch....they are my current "go-tos" in fact. In that case I would HIGHLY recommend Mr Colors 1500 finishing primer in Black: It too does a marvelous job as the Tamiya primers do, and dries to a semi-gloss sheen, with a VERY durable finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Well, there is no magical way to re-scribe correctly except maybe practice, practice and practice! I also own at least six or seven different scribers and generally go back to a cheap thick needle scriber! Even when you feel confident in such skills, there are still other parameters that complicate the job... You mentioned short run. This may be the main culprit as the plastic is often softer and this is generally not very forgiving if you do not feel comfortable in doing this exercise. I'd never start this task on a soft plastic kit. A tip that may be helpful: start first with a scalpel blade and run it without pushing too much. This will create a faint line cut in the plastic that will act as a guide for your scriber. This may help in getting straight lines. Moreover, the risk to move accidentally is lower and in case of problem, this is easier to correct (less filling and sanding work). Another tip I use often on planes where you have annoying curved lines: use vinyl plumber tape! Using templates or Dymo is a good idea on a fuselage or a wing but when you must scribe lines around an engine nacelle or along the border of a fin, this is simply impossible. Cut a thin strip of vinyl and use the prior tip to have a guideline, then use your scriber and you will be able to add panel lines anywhere! This is mainly a matter of patience and practice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Scribing lines takes practice.... I create my own templates from beer can aluminum... Then using double sided tape I align it how I want it and then start with a hardened needle and if it is needed I will go over the line again gently using my scriber from micromarkt tools... I also sometimes will use curved razor saws etc... The best thing to do is test how each tool works on the plastic before attempting the first scribe... I sometimes use the inside of the fuselage or wing to judge how the plastic reacts and what technique is required... I normally use dymo tape for all straight lines.... For hatches, complex shapes etc I create my own as detailed above! Happy scribing! It took me years to get good at it! I started rescribing old Revell kits!! Cheers Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 interesting question (and answers).. Whenever I see people struggling I think back to how I did until I found THE SECRET. I post this now in an almost evangelical wish that people will try it as it changed my modelling life and made scribing simple, effective and quick.. Without wishing to compete with Paul's amazing videos, I thought it might be worth explaining the science and the physical aspect of what scribing does to the surface, and why scribing into primer is so easy for an effective result... If I look back to my Sea Fury where I learnt this method - you can either prime a part before assembly ie a wing half so it's nice and flat, or get to a sub-assembly stage like a fuselage and do it then.I always use Mr Surfacer 1200 and micro-mesh to get a nice polished surface - in this case I removed ALL surface detail so I could start with a blank canvas, but it would work equally well adding to detail left on the moulded parts.. ..I use Radu's scriber too, with Dymo tape to guide it - another trick is to tape the start and stop points of the line to stop any risk of over running... ..where a curve is needed I find black electrical insulating tape to be useful as it will conform to double curvature and if you cut thin strips of it can handle tight corners... ..if you need to mark out rivets or panel lines you can make up paper templates to get the spacing right ..the beauty of scribing a good primer coat is that literally a wipe with micro-mesh is all that is needed to get a really good result with nice crisp definition.. ..sermon over, but honestly I think scribing bare plastic is so extrodinarily challenging to get good results that I cannot understand why anyone would want to do it - it seems to involve black magic whereas this is so simple even I can do it Peter Bryan and Zero77 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I use a Tamiya scriber which creates very nice even lines by cutting a small Silver of plastic away. It takes practise and patience. But it is fun too. Cees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilCarrot Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) The panel lines of that Sea Fury look fantastic but it seams (pun intended) to me that they were scribed into a very thick coat. How thickly would you need to put on your coat of primer to get that effect? Edited January 26, 2015 by EvilCarrot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Peter Thank you for the mini tutorial - very much appreciated Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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