Jump to content

WnW Sopwith Snipe - 17Sqn - Hawkinge - FINISHED!


Recommended Posts

Thanks Starfighter!


I just last night got the areas to be foiled masked off, and the silver dope put on the fuselage and stab/elevators. All seemed to turn out well. (pics to come) I need to get the struts painted in prep for the oil/wood simulation too.................


I have to work after hrs a lot this week, and unless I can get some time in the daylight hrs, work on the little Snipe might be postponed till next week. Hopefully not, as I think I will have time in the day to work on her..............which Im glad, as I am having a BLAST with this little kit!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter!


Well guys this kit is truly a little gem.  Got some major progress to show on this little guy...................



I shot the rest of the silver dope (Alclad Dull aluminum followed by a coat of Tam gloss aluminum) on the fuselage, elevators and stab. This went great as well, and the silver turned out just like I wanted it to:












Even the dreaded bottom fuselage seam was no issue after some plasti-weld, sanding and some paint:











It is a bit harder to tell with the lighter nature of the silver paint under lights, but I got a nice layer of MM clear gloss lacquer sprayed on after the dope was dry:








The silver gloss really washes out in the light...................didnt really notice that when taking the pics:











After I sprayed the gloss coat (which to be honest is normally ready to shoot in a few hrs) I set the main parts aside to dry. I got a good start on all of the wooden components left to spray as well.


I shot all 12 struts with Tamiya XF59, then did the same with the prop..................................After all that was dry, I took some XF59 and mixed in some black to create a darker shade of XF59. I then masked some thin layers off of this on the middle of the prop where the wooden areas are going to be exposed. Then once all that was dry, I applied the burnt umber oil thinned with Japan drier so this would all be dry in a matter of a day or two ready for clear coat:















You cant see the wooden "layers" I painted very well on the prop after the oils were applied, but that is ok w/me, as it still looks cool IMHO:















Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I had fettled around with the wooden stuff for a day, and the clear had a chance to harden off for 24 hrs, I got to work on some of the fun stuff.....................DECALS!


Normally I like to use paint masks, but Ill make an exception for Sir Peter!  These decals are by Cartograf and are EXQUISITE. If you have never used WnW decals they are in fact similar to magic.


What I mean is they go on exactly like what you would hope all decals go on like..............they are VERY strong when needed, but yet still thin, they are always in perfect register have barely ANY carrier film, and what is there almost always disappears over a clear coat. For the most part they snuggle down VERY well to their surroundings, but I still like using some Micro-sol on them, as I feel the SOL seals any edges (like by the control surfaces) and makes the decal more permanent, and takes care of any minor areas where the decals didnt want to snuggle down as well as I like.


These WnW Cartograf decals were no exception to the rule, and went on like a dream....................WnW even give you little "notches" in the decals for the wing roundels, so they are just about idiot proof from a placement perspective:



























Tiz all for now ladies and germs......................Im back off to apply a semi-gloss sheen over the silver dope and decals. They l'll likely finish wiring the engine, and try to maybe assemble and paint the under carriage and wheels at some point as well.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Peterpools


Your decal and wood grain work is the benchmark of perfection! Totally enjoying each update and always looking forward to the next.

Keep 'em coming


Edited by Peterpools
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...